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ian_uk1975
04-08-2007, 10:20 PM
Well, I had a quick go with my new Porter Cable 7424 this evening... it was getting dark, so I just did half of the boot lid on my daily driver (BMW 735i). The car, although immaculate overall, is covered in mild-to-moderate swirls and they seem most noticeable on the boot lid.

The PC did a greate job using a white Sonus pad and Autoglym Super Resin Polish. After 3 passes going slowly and applying a little pressure with the PC on speed 5-6, most of the swirls had vanished, but some very minor swirls were still visible. Do you think it would be worth starting off with a yellow pad with Autoglym Paint Renovator, then step down to the white pad and SRP, rather than give it 4 or 5 passes with SRP alone? I spent about 20 minutes applying just SRP to half the boot lid alone! I can see why it takes so long to get paint perfect, even with a machine polisher, but it was very satisfying to see such a marked difference between the polished half and the non-polished half when finished... even my parents could see the difference (the acid test!) The polished side also exhibited greater depth of colour :-)

Cheers,
Ian.

Dave Z
04-08-2007, 10:29 PM
Ian,
ditch the auto glym mate and get some menzerna intensive polish and final polish , give Johnny at clean and shiny a call 07795 395999 and tell him I sent you.

You'll find the menzerna much easier to work with as it wont dry out as quick as the AG and you'll get way better results .

Give me a bell mate when you've got 5 minutes and I'll run through the process with you:thumbsup: 07970 713062

ric355
04-08-2007, 10:30 PM
You need to buy proper polishing compounds to get a decent result. Rid the swirl marks using the polish, then wax with whatever you prefer.

Dave Z uses Menzerna polish - Intensive and Final I think. He uses the intensive first then finishes with the final polish, followed of course by the wax. I have some Final only, but it is very very fine and won't really touch anything but the finest of swirls.

http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/polish.html

The result you get is directly proportional to the amount of time you put into it. Using a PC is a very safe way of doing it but it is also slow compared to the more dangerous rotary that the pro's use.

rmdferrari
04-08-2007, 10:33 PM
What is a "Porter Cable" please? Thought it was some kind of rotary buffer. :huh:

ian_uk1975
04-08-2007, 10:35 PM
What is a "Porter Cable" please? Thought it was some kind of rotary buffer. :huh:

It's a random orbital (or 'DA') buffer, which makes burning the paint virtually impossible. Effectively, it mimics the motion of hand polishing, but at super-fast speed.

ian_uk1975
04-08-2007, 10:36 PM
Dave / Rich,

Thanks, I'll give it a go.

Cheers,
Ian.

rmdferrari
04-08-2007, 10:45 PM
It's a random orbital (or 'DA') buffer, which makes burning the paint virtually impossible. Effectively, it mimics the motion of hand polishing, but at super-fast speed.

Thanks Ian. So a kinda circular motion without the rotation? Are these expensive and Does Dave Z recommend them? :shocked:

ian_uk1975
04-08-2007, 10:51 PM
Thanks Ian. So a kinda circular motion without the rotation? Are these expensive and Does Dave Z recommend them? :shocked:

Well, it rotates on an orbit, so it doesn't stay in one spot generating heat like a rotary would.

I bought mine in the US for around $100. They're 110v only, so you also need a 1kVA step-up transformer (around 50), then you need a set of decent pads and an appropriate backing plate.

I'll let Dave comment on whether he recommends Porter Cable, or not, but they are very highly-regarded on the Net generally.

Cheers,
Ian.

ric355
04-08-2007, 11:00 PM
Well, it rotates on an orbit, so it doesn't stay in one spot generating heat like a rotary would.

I bought mine in the US for around $100. They're 110v only, so you also need a 1kVA step-up transformer (around 50), then you need a set of decent pads and an appropriate backing plate.

I'll let Dave comment on whether he recommends Porter Cable, or not, but they are very highly-regarded on the Net generally.

Cheers,
Ian.

Since Dave uses one for finishing I'm sure he recommends it ! In fact he used mine on Andy HLS' car when his own broke!

ian_uk1975
04-08-2007, 11:07 PM
Ian,
ditch the auto glym mate and get some menzerna intensive polish and final polish

Dave,

There are a couple of different versions of Final Finish Polish and Intensive Polish... which one should I be looking for?

Intensive...

http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/pb80polish.html
http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/pb70polish.html

Final Finish...

http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/pb81polish.html
http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/pb82polish.html

Cheers,
Ian.

barabus
04-08-2007, 11:16 PM
I just bought one from here cost 100 bucks plus 80 shipping, about 90 quid overall. :thumbsup:

http://www.tools-plus.com/porter-cable-7424.html

Dave Z
04-08-2007, 11:33 PM
Thanks Ian. So a kinda circular motion without the rotation? Are these expensive and Does Dave Z recommend them? :shocked:

I use them for finishing , they are excellent for that , they are also a good tool to learn with , the only way you'll damage a car with a PC is to throw it at it:laugh:
I taught both Alex (old assistant) and Ian (new assistant) with one before moving them onto a rotary


Dave,

There are a couple of different versions of Final Finish Polish and Intensive Polish... which one should I be looking for?

Intensive...

http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/pb80polish.html
http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/pb70polish.html

Final Finish...

http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/pb81polish.html
http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/pb82polish.html

Cheers,
Ian.


Ian go for the 85RD in both the IP and FP , no need to bog yourself down with the rest:thumbsup:

ian_uk1975
05-08-2007, 02:25 AM
Ian go for the 85RD in both the IP and FP , no need to bog yourself down with the rest:thumbsup:

Should I apply a sealant or wax after the Final Polish??

Dave Z
05-08-2007, 07:21 AM
Should I apply a sealant or wax after the Final Polish??

This one's down to personal choice mate , as you all know I prefer to wax a car , only because it enhances the finish even more .

I've been experimenting with a few of these polymer sealant things over the last month and I found that although they look fantastic from about 10 foot away if you actually look closer at them they do cloud the finish slightly .
We did an experiment on a BMW that we paint corrected , there were lots of number plates on the wall and after correction you could see them perfect in the reflection, we then added a well known sealent and although from down the side of the car it looked shiny , when we got up close to it the reflections were clouded slightly
I think that if you've bothered to take the time to PC your car , and it will take time , then clouding your finish with a sealant sought of defeats the object.
Saying that , a positive side to them is that they are less maintenance than the waxes , unless you go for one of the medium to high grade zymol or swissvax ones.
So I guess its down to how into waxing you are , if you just want something to wash down and leave , go the sealant route , if your into waxing then a good carnauba wax , i.e P21s , Zymol or Swissvax used over the long term will give you a better finish , but takes a little effort
Hope that helps :thumbsup: