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Thread: 348 DIY "Restoration"

  1. #1201
    irarref's Avatar
    irarref is offline Nowhere to put the shopping -The Ferrari F40 Club Member
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    Meanwhile....back on topic ;-')....

    New panel arrived this morning - cant believe how flimsy it is TBH but hey ho its an original. Think I'm going to give it a coat of rust paint and underseal before I fit it though as I imagine it will end up the same way.

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    Part# for reference - this is the RHS front vertical panel

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  2. #1202
    irarref's Avatar
    irarref is offline Nowhere to put the shopping -The Ferrari F40 Club Member
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    Decided to swap my battery today as my existing one is out of its 3 year guarantee.

    Decided to get the bells and whistles so bought one from eurocarparts with a 5 year guarantee and a much better spec than my existing one - lots of cold crank etc. it was 92.40 with discount.

    Was a bit worried it would fit at first as it looked so much larger than my existing one.

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    My car is a early rear battery car so after removing the battery cover and disconnecting the negative connection and battery charger lead I weighed up whether it would be possible to change it without going through wheel arch. Decided that it was a big fat no as little to no access to the securing plate plus exhaust mount is in way.

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    OK so car jacked up and remove wheel

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    You only have to remove the lower rear wheel arch liner which is held in by 4 self tapping screws. I was actually expecting to have problems with these but my fears were unfounded :-)

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    Arch liner removed

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  3. #1203
    irarref's Avatar
    irarref is offline Nowhere to put the shopping -The Ferrari F40 Club Member
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    There you go :-)

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    10mm socket to undo the nuts holding the charger connection and the actual connection itself

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    And again a 10mm nut/bolt securing the hold down plate

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    Hold down plate was very rusty but Ive actually bought a new smaller style one so this wont be getting replaced

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    The battery just then slides out. My battery tray had quite a bit of light surface rust so gave it a good wire brushing followed by a good blow out with my leaf blower!

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    Ready to be treated...

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  4. #1204
    irarref's Avatar
    irarref is offline Nowhere to put the shopping -The Ferrari F40 Club Member
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    Before I went any further I thought Id better check my new battery would fit! DOt know what Id do if it didnt as I bought it a few weeks ago - doh!


    Phew! Only just - even if it had been slightly bigger it wouldn't of gone.

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    Once I knew it fitted I removed it and gave the whole area a real good thorough dosing of Bilt Hambers wax/oil rust treatment - really like this stuff and although expensive is allegedly a top performer for keeping rust at bay. This is just after treatment but it does dry out - just given it a bit of an overdose! LOL

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    Slightly distracted but noticed an are of my engine cradle flaking so briushed that down and treated that too.

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    I tried to use my new battery hold down plate but it wouldnt fit in the slots and there doesnt seem ant way to make it fit - quite disappointed with it.

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    As a temporary measure Ive fitted it the wrong way round (better than nothing) while I derust the original which I will be putting back. This is the only way I could get it to fit bt it doesnt really hold it down - just stops it going forward.

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  5. #1205
    irarref's Avatar
    irarref is offline Nowhere to put the shopping -The Ferrari F40 Club Member
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    Undid all the extra connections plus the charger leads and gave them a good clean with contact cleaner and wet and dry.

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    When I got my car it had a halfords battery conditioner with it but I broke cracked the case on the transfomer so bought a new one but never fitted the new lead....until today! :-)

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    Still looks a bit scruffy I suppose but a lot better than what it was.

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    Cover back on and charging - I cable tied the plug to the nearest air intake so its handy but doesnt drop down near the exhuast

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    Charging happily - turns green when done :-)

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    Last edited by irarref; 31-08-2013 at 09:49 PM.

  6. #1206
    irarref's Avatar
    irarref is offline Nowhere to put the shopping -The Ferrari F40 Club Member
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    Arch liner was a bit grim looking

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    So gave it a clean and a light coat of Halfords bumper paint to freshen it up

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    I actually bought some stainless self tapping screws to fit my newly repaired front undertray but decided to use some on this wheel arch liner too rather than put rusted screws back - not sure whether t leave them visible or put a dab of underseal on them to hide them.

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    While I was doing this I noticed the other wheel arch liner had a crack round on the mountings so glued that too and popped a stainless screw in there after it had dried.

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    While I was waiting for various stuff to dry I removed my ABS sensor and gave it a clean with contact cleaner - only the one pic I'm afraid.


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    Thats me done for the day! It too late to do the idle/relearn so not being able to test anything but put the wheel back on and left it charging so hopefully try it out tomorrow and see if there is anything noticeably differnt anywhere.

  7. #1207
    irarref's Avatar
    irarref is offline Nowhere to put the shopping -The Ferrari F40 Club Member
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    Front undertray clip is nearly rust free

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    Battery holder is getting there but still quite rusty

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    Decided to look at fitting the hard start kit today but a bit confused already! LOL

    Instructions say:

    Disconnect the ignition/starter switch (usually a red wire with a black stripe) from the start connector of the starter solenoid (connector is marked as #50 on solenoid cover) , and attach it to the blue wire of the relay (terminal #65).

    Attach the black wire of the relay (terminal #87) to the start connector of the starter solenoid.
    Remove blue arrowed wire in my pic and attach to blue wire from relay and replace it with the black wire from the relay???


    Disconnect the battery cable from the starter solenoid terminal and attach the large red wire of the relay (terminal #30) to the starter solenoid terminal. Now reattach the battery cable to the starter solenoid terminal.
    Disconnect the red arrowed thicker connector from the starter and attach the red wire from the relay and put the connector back on top of it???


    Attach the yellow wire on from the relay (terminal #86) to a solid non corroded ground connection.
    Attach the yellow wire from the relay to a ground such as the ground cable arrowed in yellow - or somewhere on the engine cradle.


    Does that sound about right? Paranoid about setting my car on fire! LOL

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  8. #1208
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    Does the action of turning the key deliver positive or negative (ie completing a circuit) to the back end of the car?
    (Honestly, havent looked)

    The new relay's coil is between terminals 86 and 85, and that needs energising when you turn the key.
    The new relay's switch is between 30 and 87 , and that needs to deliver "new shiney right next to the battery, with no nasty volt drop" voltage to one side of starter solenoid. (Which is also a coil, right? Confusingly)

    Thats all "in theory", what to do "onsite" , sorry, not a clue!

  9. #1209
    irarref's Avatar
    irarref is offline Nowhere to put the shopping -The Ferrari F40 Club Member
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    I've just been out in the garage having another look and was just making a "before" video when I noticed this!!! Looks like a short from the ignition switch? to the gearbox casing - wonder whether this causes the dreaded lack of voltage (dont know enough about electrics TBH but sure it shouldn't do that).

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    and video...

    http://s68.photobucket.com/user/jeff...i/348/Manual/L Electrical System/2013-09-05131723_zpsd6565a6c.mp4.html

  10. #1210
    RobC's Avatar
    RobC is offline Frankenstein's monster - The Ferrari F430 Club Member
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    Nice one Jeff ,link appears to be broken though .....
    The 'Brotherhood' is growing!

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