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Thread: Ferrari 348 engine bay and rear end restoration.

  1. #191
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    Carl
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    Now that is interesting. think jeffs going to dig a bit further. Seems to me though that ferrari had a habit of mixing the odd parts..maybe they were low on stock items? Ive recently found out mine has the twin plate clutch, car was registered in end jun92. That undertray Nick looks really well done.

  2. #192
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    Nick
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    Quote Originally Posted by CLIVE77 View Post
    Nick

    Here's a pic of the underside of my undertray - pretty much the same as Jeffs'. It looks like yours was altered when the lip spoiler was fitted a very professional looking fitment though. Are you going to renovate yours as is or try to return it to original? Its very difficult for me to get a pic of mine as the car is lower than standard - looks like mines got to come off this winter for a bit of the remedials - its always getting scraped - just can't learn to slow down...........
    Thanks Clive. I see how that works now. I will probably leave the tray on for the time being. I quite like period factory mods like the spoiler and lamp covers etc although the tray is probably not I agree, but it does a good job of
    protecting the lip spoiler and covers underneath.
    I will be doing some paint sooner or later so I will decide then.

  3. #193
    irarref's Avatar
    irarref is online now Nowhere to put the shopping -The Ferrari F40 Club Member
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    Oct 2011
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    Jeff
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    I wish! LOL Reckon it would add 10k to my cars value LOL

    Whats everyone else got on that side?

  4. #194
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    Nick
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    Ive decided to do some paint while the bumper is off so its going to be the bumper, bonnet, filler strip and headlight
    pods. Ive started with the headlights first as the risk for something breaking here is high so if I need to order a
    part it gives me a bit more time.
    Behind each headlight assembly in the boot there are four fixings. 2 13mm and 2 14mm nuts and bolts. I removed
    the windscreen washer bottle and the front fuse box first for access. Undo their retaining nuts and move them aside.

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    When undone I was able to drop the nearside down and out as the bumper is not fitted. The off side I had to take out of the top as the air conveyor was fitted. When unplugging them one of the two pin plugs decided to snap off but it
    was pretty corroded. Only a matter of time before failure so I'm glad I found it. One of the feeds to the motor. There
    is also a small earth wire with a plastic sleeve. Unclip this and inside there is a simple connector to unplug.

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    Watch for these shims behind the unit. They could be stuck to pod or the body and these will be for lining up the
    body gaps I presume. Better not mix them up.

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    Unit removed compete.
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  5. #195
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    Nick
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    A rear view of the unit showing motor.

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    Here is the control arm connected to the motor. To take this off you need to remove the C clips on either end. May
    need a bit of persuading as a tight fit. The three bolts which hold the motor are behind it in the pic.

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    Motor removed. Its all inside a rubber boot.

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    All cleaned up nicely and original plating in good shape. It was all covered in a thin layer of grease thank god.

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  6. #196
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    A shot of the motor wiring plugs with the broken pin. Time for something better.

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    Bezel and headlamp removed shows the three mounting points. Plastic this age can be brittle and easily snapped
    so I was careful releasing them. All ok both sides.

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    Mounting on headlamp and side view of clip/ adjuster. Gently pry the clip back and pull the headlamp to release.

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    If you want to separate the headlamp pod from the mounting plate there are two 13mm hinge bolts.
    these were very tight to get out.

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    You can see the headlamp pod travel adjusters. Take note how they go back if you remove them. Measurements,
    positions etc. In general all in good shape and no dreaded rot apart from the wire.
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  7. #197
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    You can see the headlight on the right is very cloudy. The left one I have cleaned. This was a film which had built up
    over the years and it was on the inside of the lens. Lucky to get this much access to clean it. I used some panel wipe
    just on the glass then moped up the residue. pushed the cloth around with a pencil to clean up any smudges. Makes a big difference.

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  8. #198
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    Nick
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    Here it is back on its wheels for now with bodywork removed.

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    Everything is nice and solid again. No hidden corrosion. You can see the six bonnet hinge mounting bolts. The filler
    piece between the bumper and bonnet is held on with six easy to see 8mm bolts. All came out ok.

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    All ok in here too. Just a bit dusty.

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  9. #199
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    Some pics of the body prep. Inside of the bonnet is in good original condition so I've carefully masked it off from overspray.

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    Ready for the first coat of primer. All stone chips etc removed by careful machining. Nothing drastic. Edges feathered
    in so its nice and flat.

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    Bumper, headlamp pods and filler piece ready for primer. Again, just stone chips removed and edges feathered in.

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    Everything primed and guide coated.
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  10. #200
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    Nick
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    Rubbing down the bonnet with the block. This ensures perfect flatness and takes care of any remaining imperfections.
    Ready for another light coat of primer and prep before painting. Just the rest of the bits to do before that though.

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