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Thread: Ferrari 348 engine bay and rear end restoration.

  1. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by PAUL V View Post
    You know i can not remember as this was back in 2009 but reading my thread on F-chat it was down to 50 PSI i think the others were 150 ish ? what was confusing at the time was it would go up to say 90psi then back down to 50, but a bore scope in there and all looked fine.

    You may want to look at the thread on F-chat, i started work on mine in 2006 and only got it on the road this year !

    Here is the thread http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/348...-my-348-a.html
    Fair play Paul, Thats what I call commitment. Hope to see you around this year sometime.

  2. #42
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    Some shots of the body side of the job. Textured paint used on most of this. Battery tray was in pretty good shape rust wise. Just needed a
    prep, paint then a coating of waxoil to keep any moisture out. Get right under the tray with a tube. Cover repainted. Back panel looks great built up. As usual it all looks better in the flesh.

  3. #43
    Terry's Avatar
    Terry is offline Looks like a 308 to me? -The Ferrari 288 GTO Expert
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    Great thread very interesting, thanks for posting.

    Looks like a really good job.

  4. #44
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    Unit ready to fit. I need to attend to the throttle bodys yet . Ive removed them again as the car is now back home until the new year. I will need to strip them down totally to refinish. This will be interesting. Also possibly need to find some new butterfly screws so may take a while. Any ideas
    for the screws.? Anyone stripped a throttle body on one of these.? Any issues? Ive done others with no problems over the years but knowing
    Ferrari there may be something. I know the butterfly screws are peened over to prevent falling out/removal. A dremmel will be fine for this job.
    Another detail is the metal brake pipes. I really dont like that copper finish. I make a dummy pipe first so it can be bent into the correct shape
    and lenth. Then remove that and make another from a fresh piece of pipe with ends fitted. Once bent to shape you can then paint it. Mask up the
    unions obviously. I would defo flat the pipe down for a key then etch primer for adhesion. Thin coat of normal primer. The top coat I used was
    Ford Polar gray. Very close to original.

  5. #45
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    Hope this helps

    My screws came out ok, i just refitted them with high strength thread lock, replaced the seals on the shaft with new ones from my supplier, pretty easy job.
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  6. #46
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    Looking great! Im very envious as i really need to do all that to mine...

  7. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by PAUL V View Post
    Hope this helps

    My screws came out ok, i just refitted them with high strength thread lock, replaced the seals on the shaft with new ones from my supplier, pretty easy job.
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    Hi Paul, Should have known you would have been there. Like everywhere else. Good pics my friend. All I need to know. Having the
    proper screwdriver is a must here as well I would say.

  8. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greg View Post
    Looking great! Im very envious as i really need to do all that to mine...
    Thanks Greg.

  9. #49
    irarref's Avatar
    irarref is offline Nowhere to put the shopping -The Ferrari F40 Club Member
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    Super job your doing there - very envious! LOL :-)

    Just wondering....with regards to getting bolts etc replated do you send them off somewhere and get it done all as a big batch or are you doing it yourself? Always fancied getting all mine done but if it was piecemeal it would work out cheaper just to buy new ones so never bothered....?

    BTW If your going to put new high voltage and antifreeze stickers on your suspension towers etc get them from superperformance rather than ebay as they are a fraction of the price

    http://www.superformance.co.uk/a-348/badges.htm

    Once again lovely job - keep it up!

  10. #50
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    Hi there, As for the plating I had one batch done. Normally platers have a minimum charge which can vary between companies. Some will be 25 to
    35 for a bucket full others will be 50.00 for two items. The first option makes it economic the second dose not. Quality of preparation is very important too as you cannot plate over plating so it all has to be removed, generally by light blasting. As for my rear shocker casings, I had them
    polished to a chrome like finish first to remove any surface marks. No blasting. Not so easy for tiny or small objects though. I paid 20 each+ vat
    for the strut casings which makes it viable if you look at the price of two new ones plus I want to retain the original parts as much as possible. He did do me a deal on the casings as the min charge was 55.00 +vat normally.
    So to surmise, I used two platers. The 30 a bucket man for the odds and sods and the 55.00 min charge man for the struts.
    I needed the strut casings in a hurry so I went local and they were done within 24 hrs. The other option took 3 weeks. Worth the effort. a good
    build is all in the detail for me. The little things can let it down.
    I have new stickers already. Is it just the two or am I missing anything?
    Thanks for the compliments. Glad you like it.
    Nick

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