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Thread: F430 New owner diary inc. maintenance & upgrades

  1. #901
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nosevi View Post
    Stupid question of the day: If you quite heavily insulate CATs so that they don't radiate the normal amount of heat into the engine bay, while making the engine bay cooler will the CATs not run hotter? Is there a risk with doing that if they do?
    Good question. Actually, no, and the engine management strategy is designed to heat up the cats more quickly during a cold start. Cats will only overheat if there is excess fuel in the exhaust and that will be irrespective of heat protection. A well insulated exhaust system means that more heat is sent out of the tailpies rather than kept within the system.

    It's normal for the cats to glow red internally under hard driving. See https://youtu.be/oDtCKjKx2K8?t=440
    Last edited by MWStewart; 28-04-2019 at 07:48 PM.

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    Spider Roof Problem: Warning Light With Roof Down
    My previous issue persisted: a roof warning light with the hood down. The warning light is triggered if one of the many position-indicating micro-switches provides an unexpected reading for the current roof position. Sadly, my diagnostic device can't read the codes from the roof module so I came up with an alternative approach: I studied the wiring diagrams and noted that all the roof micro-switches simply switch to earth so I made a test chart and used a multimeter to check continuity to ground of the various switches with the roof in up then down positions.

    The test revealed that the switch that indicates that the top part of the roof has been folded back was not reading correctly.
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    In order to access the switch I partially opened the roof and lifted up the top canvass.
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    Clearly, the switch was damaged. The actual root cause was not the switch itself but one of the roof tensioning cables was too slack and had fouled the switch as the roof closed. I've ordered a replacement switch and cable.
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    This particular cable (part #67047300) is actually adjustable behind the rear buttresses, but in my case it was too late.
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    I will replace the switch and cable myself but the car is booked in with http://www.kbaggstrimming.co.uk for replacement of all of the elastic tensioning straps and a check of the rest of the cables.

    I haven't spent any time to-date learning the roof but this incident has promoted me to master it.

    Spider Roof Problem: Canvass Chaffing On Roof Tray
    This could happen on either side but on my car the canvass had ceased to fold correctly and was sticking out and brushing on the hood tray as the roof folded away. I really should have attended to this earlier as it had rubbed away some of the seam at the lower part of the hood buttress.
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    Upon investigation I found that stiff canvass pieces are bonded to rear of the outer fabric but with a small gap in between, which upon lowering the roof coerces the fabric to fold at that specific point to clear the hood tray. On my car these stiffening sections had become to peel away from the outer fabric leaving the hood to fold in a non-ideal way, and foul the edge of the tray.
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    I re-bonded the stiffening fabric with PU adhesive and left overnight secured by clamps. This solved the issue.
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    I managed to trim off the excess fluff and make good with PU. It's not perfect but it's pretty good.
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  3. #903
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    Nosevi is offline There's an outside too? Where? Super Moderator
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    Quote Originally Posted by MWStewart View Post
    Good question. Actually, no, and the engine management strategy is designed to heat up the cats more quickly during a cold start. Cats will only overheat if there is excess fuel in the exhaust and that will be irrespective of heat protection. A well insulated exhaust system means that more heat is sent out of the tailpies rather than kept within the system.

    It's normal for the cats to glow red internally under hard driving. See https://youtu.be/oDtCKjKx2K8?t=440
    Thanks for the explanation

  4. #904
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    Mike01606 is online now Nowhere to put the shopping -The Ferrari F40 Club Member
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    Those OEM ball joint kits were a bargain Mark. The list on the Ferrari boots alone is about £60 each plus VAT. I wish I'd seen them and I'd have no concerns fitting them whatsoever with the type of use my car gets.
    My rear joints are still original at 47k miles and no discernable play in them. The fronts will just wear out whatever you use.

    I didn't really have to clean the epoxy out of the arm. It came out with the joint once the heat/force cracked the bond.

    Keep up the great work

  5. #905
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike01606 View Post
    Those OEM ball joint kits were a bargain Mark. The list on the Ferrari boots alone is about £60 each plus VAT. I wish I'd seen them and I'd have no concerns fitting them whatsoever with the type of use my car gets.
    My rear joints are still original at 47k miles and no discernable play in them. The fronts will just wear out whatever you use.

    I didn't really have to clean the epoxy out of the arm. It came out with the joint once the heat/force cracked the bond.

    Keep up the great work
    Cheers Mike I thought at the time that I did get really lucky, in fact I the seller could have advertised at twice the price and still I would have gone for them.

    I've come to the conclusion that the front upper joints are under-specced but sadly I don't think there's enough meat in the arm to machine it to take something larger. If I get some time after the wedding I will investigate clearance in the hub then possibly have a bespoke pair of front wishbones machined from 7075 then anodised - to take a larger bearing. I've also been investigating replacement of the flamblocs with a cross-axis joint.

    I've converted one of my other cars to independent rear suspension using billet parts to my design so I have a bit of experience, not that the front wishbones need much work to change them.

    On my car the majority of glue was left in the arm so it would have taken me quite a while to clean it out.

  6. #906
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    Quote Originally Posted by MWStewart View Post
    Cheers Mike I thought at the time that I did get really lucky, in fact I the seller could have advertised at twice the price and still I would have gone for them.

    I've come to the conclusion that the front upper joints are under-specced but sadly I don't think there's enough meat in the arm to machine it to take something larger. If I get some time after the wedding I will investigate clearance in the hub then possibly have a bespoke pair of front wishbones machined from 7075 then anodised - to take a larger bearing. I've also been investigating replacement of the flamblocs with a cross-axis joint.

    I've converted one of my other cars to independent rear suspension using billet parts to my design so I have a bit of experience, not that the front wishbones need much work to change them.

    On my car the majority of glue was left in the arm so it would have taken me quite a while to clean it out.
    Interesting thoughts - some data - when my car was stock, and I had it from virtually new <1000 miles it needed ball joints and tie rods replacing after one year of ownership. It was under warranty and having seen the parts this was primarily corrosion related wear. However having swapped the brakes for carbon and also adding the titanium wheel bolts (along with a significant overall spring weight reduction) the same parts are now fine after another 20,000 miles. I also have scuderia spec front tyres which result in a less lively steering wheel than stock. My hypothesis is that the Ferrari design in the 430 era was largely sound but only for certain options and combinations.

    One of the increasingly topical matters in vehicle testing now is which spec combo’s should be tested - worst case, best case, median case...

    Options matter a lot so you may be chasing phantoms

  7. #907
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    Quote Originally Posted by Modificato View Post
    Interesting thoughts - some data - when my car was stock, and I had it from virtually new <1000 miles it needed ball joints and tie rods replacing after one year of ownership. It was under warranty and having seen the parts this was primarily corrosion related wear. However having swapped the brakes for carbon and also adding the titanium wheel bolts (along with a significant overall spring weight reduction) the same parts are now fine after another 20,000 miles. I also have scuderia spec front tyres which result in a less lively steering wheel than stock. My hypothesis is that the Ferrari design in the 430 era was largely sound but only for certain options and combinations.

    One of the increasingly topical matters in vehicle testing now is which spec combo’s should be tested - worst case, best case, median case...

    Options matter a lot so you may be chasing phantoms
    Good point.

  8. #908
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    My car was missing the passenger floor mat securing clips and the drivers side never stay put, so I suppose it's not a surprise that that they've been lost. I ordered a new pair but before fitting I put a dab of black PU adhesive on the back of them. So far it seems to have done the trick.
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    Roof Issue Addressed
    The rew roof cable and micro-switch arrived:
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    Upon close inspection of my old cable it had started to fray (green arrow).
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    I didn't have a workshop manual to hand so I had to figure out as I went, however the job wasn't too difficult just fiddly and time consuming.
    The cable runs from above the passenger headrest to the tip of the rear buttress and there are in total four guide rollers, each having a sheath to hold the cable in place, and these must be removed to withdraw the cable due to the size of the eyelet fitted to the forward end.

    The largest of the rollers at the rear of the hood must be removed from its pin which, to my surprise, was made from aluminium, so care must be taken when re-assembling.
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    Two guide rollers at the base of the buttress are held in with circlips.
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    All in it was a couple of hours work, but it has addressed the issue that triggered the fault code. I will leave the roof closed until after my visit to K Baggs for replacement of the elastic straps.

    Variator Solenoid Failiure - Again
    I must admit this grated on me. It has been only a few thousand miles since I replaced all four solenoids with the later part, due to intermittent failure of one solenoid and oil in the connectors of the other three - a common failure mode. This time around there was a complete open circuit on the right bank inlet cam triggered a P1552, and also the right bank exhaust wiring plug had oil in it. Diagnosis on the failed solenoid revealed a break in the connection between the engine loom plug and the solenoid body.
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    I now have quite a collection of solenoids old and new, so I checked the resistance of them and found that 11 ohms of resistance signifies a healthy coil - in my case the range was from 10.7 to 11.4 ohms. A known bad solenoid measured 37 ohms. What is interesting is that units exhibiting oil in their connector can measure a healthy resistance, so either the presence of oil and internal failure are separate issues, or the oil signifies the onset of internal failure.
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    I knew that Maserati's of this era used the same type of solenoid with the only apparent difference being a slightly longer cable. The Maserati version is £376.88 vs the £565.60 I paid for the F430 version, so fully expecting the part to fail again at some point I decided to use the Maserati version.

    I did ponder the issue of oil in the solenoid multiplug, which is a problem that other manufacturers have encountered; for example, Mercedes issued an oil break intermediate loom to solve this very issues on one of their engines. Oil must come either from within the solenoid body, or find its way in from the outside then 'wick' its way along the cable. To mitigate the risk of the latter I sealed off the gaps with RTV sealant (the stuff the sump is sealed with).
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    There is an oil restriction valve in the end of the cam cap that houses solenoids, its function is to maintain oil pressure so that the solenoids may immediately react - if the oil leak is in fact internal to the solenoid then another reason may be that the valve causes small oil pressure spikes in some situations, which forces oil past a seal. This is just conjecture - it could of course be simply an inadequately specced part.

    On my Spider I found the fastest way to replace the solenoids was to remove the seats, engine bay panel, rear wheel and wheel arch liner. The cam cover can be withdrawn through the wheel arch.
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    The solenoids can be replaced via the access panel. I laid clean rags over the top of the engine - loosing one of the securing bolts into the engine would cause a significant headache.
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  9. #909
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    Mike01606 is online now Nowhere to put the shopping -The Ferrari F40 Club Member
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    My Merc 230 Kompressor had the oil break loom to ‘solve’ a similar problem. I guess oil in those VVT SV’s isn’t seen as an issue, it was when it worked its way back to the electronics the real spensive problems started.
    At those prices Ferrari need to sort the part quality.

  10. #910
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike01606 View Post
    My Merc 230 Kompressor had the oil break loom to ‘solve’ a similar problem. I guess oil in those VVT SV’s isn’t seen as an issue, it was when it worked its way back to the electronics the real spensive problems started.
    At those prices Ferrari need to sort the part quality.
    I was actually considering integrating four of those into the loom...like you say - I'm not convinced the oil is an issue until it travels further up the loom.

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