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Thread: My Argento 360

  1. #191
    Mike01606's Avatar
    Mike01606 is offline Kid's bed - The Ferrari F50 Club Member
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    I took advantage of the super mild weather today to prepare for some winter work.....

    As I can only access one side of the car at any one time in the garage (Iím not moaning Scott honest!) I jacked both sides up today to take the load off the front ARB and disconnected the drop links.

    I can now strip/rebuild the RHS front suspension in between installing a new bathroom

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    Iíll change the bushes anyway bit Iím thinking of having the ARB powder coated.
    How easy is it to remove? Anyone done it?

    Iíve the front under-tray off but donít want to pull half the car apart to get it out.

  2. #192
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    At the last service in October Adam pointed out the sump to oil cooler pipe had some corrosion on it. Nothing too bad but he asked me to keep an eye on it as he has seen them fail.
    I never asked him to point it out and for the life of me I couldnít see what he meant but had a close look today and found this.

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    I think a trip to Pirtek will sort it but I think Iím going to have to drain the oil again....one for the back end of the job when I replace the trans oil....

  3. #193
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    Those alu nuts are terrible for splitting on the Maserati 4200 and the pipe is a bugger to change. I have developed a two piece nut in conjunction with Paul at Hill Engineering that will be coming to market soon. Simply chop the old nut off, clean up the ferrule and install the new two-piece nut.
    Last edited by voicey; 01-01-2019 at 07:20 PM.

  4. #194
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    Quote Originally Posted by voicey View Post
    Those alu nuts are terrible for splitting on the Maserati 4200 and the pipe is a bugger to change. I have developed a two piece nut in conjunction with Paul at Hill Engineering that will be coming to market soon. Simply chop the old nut off, clean up the ferrule and install the new two-piece nut.
    Very useful to know....cheers Aldous.

    I need to remove it to have a proper look but what was described as corrosion looks like either braze/solder or where thereís been some residual flux....

    Changing the nut seem like a good idea if the pipe is sound.
    I split this union when I took the box out.

  5. #195
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike01606 View Post
    I took advantage of the super mild weather today to prepare for some winter work.....

    As I can only access one side of the car at any one time in the garage (Iím not moaning Scott honest!) I jacked both sides up today to take the load off the front ARB and disconnected the drop links.

    I can now strip/rebuild the RHS front suspension in between installing a new bathroom

    Name:  IMG_0773.jpg
Views: 120
Size:  76.8 KB

    Iíll change the bushes anyway bit Iím thinking of having the ARB powder coated.
    How easy is it to remove? Anyone done it?

    Iíve the front under-tray off but donít want to pull half the car apart to get it out.
    Pretty easy to remove the ARB. Just undo the mounts and pull out from one side. Obviuosy you will need the clearance on the side to pull it right out. Alternatively, if you remove the panel in the boot to get the the aircon it can come out that way, reducing the space required down the side.

  6. #196
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    Quote Originally Posted by achaddy View Post
    Pretty easy to remove the ARB. Just undo the mounts and pull out from one side. Obviuosy you will need the clearance on the side to pull it right out. Alternatively, if you remove the panel in the boot to get the the aircon it can come out that way, reducing the space required down the side.
    Cheers Andy

    I had limited time so didn't take the mounts off but looking through it looked like there was plenty in the way of pulling it straight out..... I'll remove the mounts and have another look.
    I'm trying to avoid removing the boot liner as that foam moisture seal that used to be <£20 is now over £100 How many off those will get replaced now......

  7. #197
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike01606 View Post
    Cheers Andy

    I'm trying to avoid removing the boot liner as that foam moisture seal that used to be <£20 is now over £100 How many off those will get replaced now......
    £100

    £40 for the last one I bought and last one fitted was supplied FOC by DL.

    Anyway, with car on jacks I think you can pull it out at an angle underneath the cill, when pulled out so far, meaning you don't need as much side room. If you get what I mean.

  8. #198
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    That moisture barrier is made from 50p per square meter packaging material, typically used to protect ceramic plates during shipping. The downside of course if using it off of the roll is that it wouldn't be neatly formed to the shape of the panel - that's a personal call whether to use it or not. It works perfectly to remake the barrier behind the door cards as they are originally flat anyway.

    Use a hole stamp for the holes and butyl tape to seal.

  9. #199
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    Here's a link https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/jiffy-foa...vWog:rk:2:pf:0

    It tends to be called 'Jiffy Foam' in retail circles but really it is Expandable Polyethylene (EPE) sheet.

  10. #200
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    Quote Originally Posted by MWStewart View Post
    Here's a link https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/jiffy-foa...vWog:rk:2:pf:0

    It tends to be called 'Jiffy Foam' in retail circles but really it is Expandable Polyethylene (EPE) sheet.
    Yep, thought that was the stuff. Like you say the OEM part is nicely shaped for the panel but for that price I think I would go with the DIY option. After all once the boot panel is fitted you cant see it.

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