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Pangea
08-12-2013, 01:36 PM
Hi guys,
Firstly I would like to say what a great site. Full of interesting info and informed members. We all need to turn to it from time to time Im
sure. Ive owned my car for getting on for three years and ive always had a plan in mind to do what Ive done in the last few months. I combined it
with the need to renew the cam belt and carry out a service which as we all know requires the engine out to do this properly. As for myself ive been in the motor trade all my working life (35+years) and restoration is not an alien subject to me having done quite a few cars over the years. This is my first
Ferrari resto though. This phase will just deal with the rear end of the car taking in the engine bay and associated framework, rear suspension, rear panel etc. I wont harp on about stuff thats already been covered on the site in much detail, ie cam belt replacement , timing , brake bleeding etc as I dont see the point in repeating spot on information. The whole process was carried out in a fully kitted workshop using both ramps and floorspace.
Hope you enjoy the post.131652131653131654131655131656131657
Pic 1 Car on two poster ramp. I did most of the prelim stripping here. Fluids drained etc etc.
Pic 2 View of engine being stripped. All looks a bit scruffy.
Pic 3 Car positioned in floorspace with rear unit removed. Two jacks used plus the added security of stands. A must.
Pic 4 Unit removed.
Pic 5 Engine and gearbox removed from subframe.
Pic 6 Subframe totally stripped apart from top suspension arms. The mounting bolts were seized to the middle of the bushes on both sides so had to be carefully cut of with a air hacksaw. Not hard but time consuming. General condition of frame was good. Solid with only some surface corrosion. Just looked mucky. More to come later.

Nosevi
08-12-2013, 01:44 PM
Very much looking forward to reading this - thanks for posting :thumbsup:

Pangea
08-12-2013, 02:25 PM
Just to say at this point in the project ( Ten days in) I fell over on some damp grass and broke my right wrist. Now it became somewhat difficult to
work but I battled on. Its amazing how agile your left hand becomes with some practice.:wink3:. At least I had managed to strip everything down before my accident so could get it all off to the powdercoaters and have an easier two weeks while waiting for the bits to come back. Got on with
some lighter work in the mean time. There was a lot of it. Here are some pics of the restored subframe. I was looking for a factory sort of finish so I went for a textured look. This works for me. 131660131659131658131661131662

AJ3XX
08-12-2013, 02:44 PM
Very much looking forward to reading this - thanks for posting :thumbsup:

+ 1

Great start

Pangea
08-12-2013, 02:45 PM
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Some more restored engine parts and dry sump tank.

Pangea
08-12-2013, 03:28 PM
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Main oil pipe between tank and engine had a cracked flange. Not a bad leak. Only a weep but still made a mess on floor over time. This repair was
carried out by Pirtek Gloucester. He knew all about Ferrari pipes and the issues that go with them as he had repaired many over time. Mostly for a
local specialist. He reused the tank fitting as they cant supply this sort of item. Perfect job and fitted spot on. Dont overtighten or they WILL crack
the nut. Then you are looking for a very expensive pipe. Same goes for any other oil hoses on the car. If one is leaking from the connector and
there is no obvious crack try loosening the nut and re-seating the pipe a tad. This has worked for me in years gone by. If not you need to strip out and inspect the components. You will obviously need to drain the oil for the last operation.

Nosevi
08-12-2013, 03:43 PM
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Some more restored engine parts and dry sump tank.

When can I drop my car off? You do take orders I take it? Those look great :thumbsup:

Pangea
08-12-2013, 04:55 PM
When can I drop my car off? You do take orders I take it? Those look great :thumbsup:

They look a bit stark in those photos. Wrong setting on my crap camera. They look better in later pics.

Nosevi
08-12-2013, 05:08 PM
They look a bit stark in those photos. Wrong setting on my crap camera. They look better in later pics.

Look pretty good to me. Look forward to seeing the later shots :)

Pangea
08-12-2013, 05:18 PM
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I wanted to retain as many original parts as possible so here is a selection of items I had re-plated. Rubbers on the P clips and fuel filter brackets
cleaned up lovely. Still nice and soft. Treated with rubber care solution. Autoglim. I wanted to put the throttle linkage in a glass case in my living
room. Looks great.

Pangea
08-12-2013, 05:42 PM
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Here is the trim from around the rear screen/ engine bay. This had the same feel as the sticky bits inside the car. You could leave a thumb print
in it. I cleaned this off using some gun wash thinners as not much else works on this coating. Came off fairly quickly. I prepped it and it was then
painted in a two pack satin. The three parts to the trim are held on by 12 5mm nuts accessed under the edge of the engine bay. Would be much
easier to get this off and refit with the engine out of the way as I did. Some of the nuts were a bit tight on the thread and needed WD 40 and some
time spending on them. Did it in the end. Clean up and lub the threads on the trim before refitting.

ronrob
08-12-2013, 06:35 PM
Lovely work. You are clearly no stranger to painting/refinishing parts either.
When you removed the engine/transmission from the frame, did you lift it off with the sling under the intake manifolds (!) or was the sling there just to keep it all upright? What did you use to clean up the
intakes and what did you coat them with - look really great. Great to see a thread like this to liven things up a bit.

355OXO
08-12-2013, 07:02 PM
Looking good, I know the hard work involved, great thread and posting takes a lot of time that I have failed to do well.

Pangea
08-12-2013, 07:21 PM
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Rear shock absorbers have been stripped, cases re-plated, springs powdercoated, top mounts refinished and new lower mount bushes fitted.
If you order these bushes for your car try and measure the diameter. In my case they were 35mm but I was first sent bushes of 42mm. Later car
fitment maybe? Not looked into it yet. Also we fitted Schrader valves to the casings so the strut can be serviced without sending them off to Bilstein every time there is a problem. This allows re-gassing. Also good if you want to play with the valving in the strut. Maybe not for everyone but it
suits me for now.

candellara
08-12-2013, 07:31 PM
Great thread. Keep the updates & pics coming :thumbsup:

Pangea
08-12-2013, 08:13 PM
Lovely work. You are clearly no stranger to painting/refinishing parts either.
When you removed the engine/transmission from the frame, did you lift it off with the sling under the intake manifolds (!) or was the sling there just to keep it all upright? What did you use to clean up the
intakes and what did you coat them with - look really great. Great to see a thread like this to liven things up a bit.

Hi there, I used a pallet and truck to lift the whole unit up as high as it would go. Took the weight with the engine hoist then undo the engine
mount nuts and rear gearbox mount. All bolts including the big boy. Take out the rear crossmember from the subframe. The clutch housing seemed
to catch this. Its only four nuts and bolts. I then let the pallet truck down away from the unit taking the subframe with it. After a bit of help and a
jiggle we were able to pull the hoist back and place the engine and box after a quick jetwash onto another pallet. Its a heavy job and you need the
kit. As for the plenum chamber/inlet manifold, cam covers , oil tank and subframe I used a company called Redditch Shotblasters. This is a
powdercoat textured finish. This is a very hard substance which is baked in an oven. This process also creates the finish. You would have to remove
all the components from the manifold including the air compensator valve assy in the middle of the two chambers. The units need a light blasting to get a decent key for the paint plus the baking after may destroy the small rubber seals on the butterfly shaft. Also there is always a risk of blast
grit getting in past the masking and jamming things up. If its all apart there is no chance and you can assemble it after cleaning properly.
Satisfying job. Hope this helps.

Mike01606
08-12-2013, 08:49 PM
Great work, please keep posting. Are you ultimately aiming for concours car?

JasonB
08-12-2013, 10:18 PM
Fantastic effort, looks brilliant, looking forward to seeing the rebuild.

ronrob
08-12-2013, 10:24 PM
Hi there, I used a pallet and truck to lift the whole unit up as high as it would go. Took the weight with the engine hoist then undo the engine
mount nuts and rear gearbox mount. All bolts including the big boy. Take out the rear crossmember from the subframe. The clutch housing seemed
to catch this. Its only four nuts and bolts. I then let the pallet truck down away from the unit taking the subframe with it. After a bit of help and a
jiggle we were able to pull the hoist back and place the engine and box after a quick jetwash onto another pallet. Its a heavy job and you need the
kit. As for the plenum chamber/inlet manifold, cam covers , oil tank and subframe I used a company called Redditch Shotblasters. This is a
powdercoat textured finish. This is a very hard substance which is baked in an oven. This process also creates the finish. You would have to remove
all the components from the manifold including the air compensator valve assy in the middle of the two chambers. The units need a light blasting to get a decent key for the paint plus the baking after may destroy the small rubber seals on the butterfly shaft. Also there is always a risk of blast
grit getting in past the masking and jamming things up. If its all apart there is no chance and you can assemble it after cleaning properly.
Satisfying job. Hope this helps.

Yes. Terry, a stalwart on here, uses Redditch for powder coating. My question was prompted by the photo with the lifting strap wrapped around the plenum chambers.

Pangea
09-12-2013, 01:27 AM
Great work, please keep posting. Are you ultimately aiming for concours car?

Thanks. Im not really going for a concourse car. Just something well sorted. Concourse seems to mean different things to different people. Its just
an opinion at the end of the day. If I was Ive a way to go yet but I dont think I want to chase that prize. Nice and clean will do.:thumbsup:

Pangea
09-12-2013, 03:58 PM
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Top and bottom rear suspension arms have been blasted ,powdercoated and rebushed. Changing the bushes is not a job to be taken lightly. I would
recommend finding someone with a hydraulic press to get them out and back in again. I managed to do 12 out of 16 using the press above and a fly press. I made some tooling to do this. The item above has a bolt welded in dead centre which kept it all in line. This fits underneath the bush. Its not
in the photo of the press but im sure you will get the idea. The outer lower arm bushes were very stiff and I had to take the arms to an engineer I
know to get them all the way in. Easy with the right kit.

Trevsked
10-12-2013, 12:28 AM
All looking very nice. Did you buy original bushes or other such as Superformance?

Trevor.

Pangea
10-12-2013, 11:12 AM
Hi Trevor, I used genuine 355 bushes. Meant to be 20% stiffer and all fit perfectly. I dont want to get to far away from standard. I dont like using
makes like Proflex on my own cars. They can make for a harsh ride. Its a personal thing and I have fitted lots of them to other peoples road cars
with great success. They need periodic attention in my experience. Re-lubing I mean by that. Good product though used by many.

Pangea
10-12-2013, 11:35 AM
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Driveshafts rebuilt. Powdercoated shafts. Joints have been stripped and reassembled then painted with a metal protection paint similar to standard.
A friend managed to get me some from someone he knows. It came in an unmarked tin so no make for this. Looks like Ferrari brush this on but
these were sprayed as I only had a small amount. I will try to find a make for the paint at some point. Maybe the military use this as I think the
supplier is in the army.

Pangea
10-12-2013, 11:44 AM
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Handbrake linkage all done. I used new cables right through. The handbrake feel superb now. Remember to adjust the hub adjuster on the shoes
first before taking up the slack in the cables.

Pangea
10-12-2013, 11:57 AM
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For those who may not know, this is whats in the bottom of the dry sump tank. May be difficult to remove this due to the steel retaining studs being seized to the cover. Try to extract the stud first if you have problems. Forcing it may crack the hole flange. This is how mine looked before cleaning. Nothing evil in there. I dont think these would be removed that often to be honest.

Pangea
10-12-2013, 01:04 PM
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Picture 1 is of the top of the engine block with inlet manifold removed. In the centre between the two blue Temp sensors is a bleed off hose which
goes to the coolant header tank. As you can see the hose is bulging and the fitted clip has been tightened far to much. This is an obvious point of
failure in future in my opinion so I have replaced the hose and clip. Also I have replaced the temp sensors with the new type of Bosch units.
Also the old connectors have been removed and new ones fitted. They have gold plated pins which has got to be an improvement. You can access
these with the manifold still in place as shown. If you cant fit a socket over the new sensors use a 19mm crowsfoot spanner to tighten. As shown.
The other sensor you can see in picture 1 is for the temp gauge on the dashboard. Its made by Veglia but oddly no number found on it. Would
recommend changing this if you had the manifold off as it looks an impossible job otherwise. All this work is to prevent, rather than cure any faults.
I will post the part numbers for the sensors when I get over to the workshop next.

Pangea
10-12-2013, 02:03 PM
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Worth checking this vacuum unit. Its under the front of the plenum and controls the air compensator valve/butterfly between the two chambers.
You can use a vacuum pump if you have one or short of that a piece of vac tube and suck through it. If you have no resistance to the
sucking you have probably got a hole in the diaphragm. From what I can gather the the compensator valve works between 3250 to 5500 rpm
and adds torque to the midrange so handy to have working properly. Please correct me if Im wrong about this. Make sure the associated linkages
are nice and free too. I used a light white grease on reassembly. Easy with engine out or manifold off. Very awkward with manifold on engine in car..

PAUL V
10-12-2013, 04:25 PM
Hi there, looks like you are doing a very good job there :thumbsup: keep up the good work.

While you have it down that far you may want to check the condition of the water pipe that goes inbetween the 2 temp sensors, on mine it was totally corroded see here

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/139313746-post159.html

I did make my own one but you can buy them from hill eng
http://www.hillengineering.co.uk/catalog/106241-p-326.html

Pangea
10-12-2013, 05:24 PM
Hi Paul, Thanks for the tip. The pipe in question looked in good shape and cleaned up fine. Did not see a reason to replace it this time round. I know
what you mean though and have had to replace similar items on other vehicles over the years. Thanks again. Why have you pulled your engine to
pieces.? Did something let loose?

PAUL V
10-12-2013, 05:28 PM
Hi Paul, Thanks for the tip. The pipe in question looked in good shape and cleaned up fine. Did not see a reason to replace it this time round. I know
what you mean though and have had to replace similar items on other vehicles over the years. Thanks again. Why have you pulled your engine to
pieces.? Did something let loose?

The engine was running OK but i was doing a restoration on the car (Similar to you) and found 1 of the cylinders low on comp. I then stripped it down to find one the inner valve springs had broken, so i changed all 32 of them along with the valve guides.

Pangea
10-12-2013, 05:48 PM
Do you think the spring was the cause of the low compression? Normally its an exhaust valve/seat or piston problem. Was the break on the low
cylinder? I take it it was.
Just for interest sake.
Thanks.

PAUL V
10-12-2013, 06:34 PM
Yes it was the valve on that cylinder, here is what was left of the spring and the valve guide (on the left) new springs on the right.

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Pangea
10-12-2013, 06:54 PM
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Ive had an intermittent problem with the petrol cap not opening from the switch. I took a look at the connector under the wing and this is what I
found in pic 1. Not great as you will agree so I replaced it with a new two pin Bosch plug. Fully sealed against moisture unlike the nasty old Ferrari/
Fiat plug. Lets see what happens and I will let you know. Im hopeful.

Pangea
10-12-2013, 07:05 PM
Yes it was the valve on that cylinder, here is what was left of the spring and the valve guide (on the left) new springs on the right.

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Wow. It really did break up. Ive seen a few springs like this over the years but normally on race or rally cars. It does happen on road cars but its
not that common a fault. I built Subaru STI engines for years and saw quite a few then but normally just broke in two. Hard revving can take its toll
over time.

Pangea
10-12-2013, 07:27 PM
The engine was running OK but i was doing a restoration on the car (Similar to you) and found 1 of the cylinders low on comp. I then stripped it down to find one the inner valve springs had broken, so i changed all 32 of them along with the valve guides.

Hi Paul, Again for interest, how low was the bad compression in relation to the others. Thanks.

PAUL V
10-12-2013, 07:51 PM
Hi Paul, Again for interest, how low was the bad compression in relation to the others. Thanks.

You know i can not remember as this was back in 2009 but reading my thread on F-chat it was down to 50 PSI i think the others were 150 ish ? what was confusing at the time was it would go up to say 90psi then back down to 50, but a bore scope in there and all looked fine.

You may want to look at the thread on F-chat, i started work on mine in 2006 and only got it on the road this year !

Here is the thread http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/348-355/99531-work-so-far-my-348-a.html

Pangea
10-12-2013, 08:00 PM
Hmm. I would have thought you would have noticed a missfire as low as that. Interesting. I will check out your link. Im pretty sure Ive been there
for something.

Pangea
11-12-2013, 02:26 PM
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Some shots of the suspension built up.

Pangea
11-12-2013, 02:39 PM
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Im not one for too many mods but I do rate Goodridge hoses. These are the Phantom range. Still look fairy stock due to the black coating and have stainless steel ends which means they will always look decent. Usually give a more positive brake pedal feel too. Dot 5.1 brake fluid used for bleed.
New retaining clips fitted.

Pangea
11-12-2013, 02:42 PM
You know i can not remember as this was back in 2009 but reading my thread on F-chat it was down to 50 PSI i think the others were 150 ish ? what was confusing at the time was it would go up to say 90psi then back down to 50, but a bore scope in there and all looked fine.

You may want to look at the thread on F-chat, i started work on mine in 2006 and only got it on the road this year !

Here is the thread http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/348-355/99531-work-so-far-my-348-a.html

Fair play Paul, Thats what I call commitment. Hope to see you around this year sometime.

Pangea
11-12-2013, 03:15 PM
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Some shots of the body side of the job. Textured paint used on most of this. Battery tray was in pretty good shape rust wise. Just needed a
prep, paint then a coating of waxoil to keep any moisture out. Get right under the tray with a tube. Cover repainted. Back panel looks great built up. As usual it all looks better in the flesh.

Terry
11-12-2013, 08:11 PM
Great thread very interesting, thanks for posting.

Looks like a really good job. :thumbsup:

Pangea
13-12-2013, 01:26 PM
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Unit ready to fit. I need to attend to the throttle bodys yet . Ive removed them again as the car is now back home until the new year. I will need to strip them down totally to refinish. This will be interesting. Also possibly need to find some new butterfly screws so may take a while. Any ideas
for the screws.? Anyone stripped a throttle body on one of these.? Any issues? Ive done others with no problems over the years but knowing
Ferrari there may be something. I know the butterfly screws are peened over to prevent falling out/removal. A dremmel will be fine for this job.
Another detail is the metal brake pipes. I really dont like that copper finish. I make a dummy pipe first so it can be bent into the correct shape
and lenth. Then remove that and make another from a fresh piece of pipe with ends fitted. Once bent to shape you can then paint it. Mask up the
unions obviously. I would defo flat the pipe down for a key then etch primer for adhesion. Thin coat of normal primer. The top coat I used was
Ford Polar gray. Very close to original.

PAUL V
13-12-2013, 04:48 PM
Hope this helps :thumbsup:

My screws came out ok, i just refitted them with high strength thread lock, replaced the seals on the shaft with new ones from my supplier, pretty easy job.
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Greg
13-12-2013, 05:38 PM
Looking great! Im very envious as i really need to do all that to mine...

Pangea
13-12-2013, 06:31 PM
Hope this helps :thumbsup:

My screws came out ok, i just refitted them with high strength thread lock, replaced the seals on the shaft with new ones from my supplier, pretty easy job.
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Hi Paul, Should have known you would have been there. Like everywhere else. Good pics my friend. All I need to know. :thumbsup: Having the
proper screwdriver is a must here as well I would say.

Pangea
13-12-2013, 06:36 PM
Looking great! Im very envious as i really need to do all that to mine...

Thanks Greg.

irarref
14-12-2013, 08:59 AM
Super job your doing there - very envious! LOL :-)

Just wondering....with regards to getting bolts etc replated do you send them off somewhere and get it done all as a big batch or are you doing it yourself? Always fancied getting all mine done but if it was piecemeal it would work out cheaper just to buy new ones so never bothered....?

BTW If your going to put new high voltage and antifreeze stickers on your suspension towers etc get them from superperformance rather than ebay as they are a fraction of the price

http://www.superformance.co.uk/a-348/badges.htm
(http://www.superformance.co.uk/a-348/badges.htm)
Once again lovely job - keep it up!

Pangea
14-12-2013, 12:32 PM
Hi there, As for the plating I had one batch done. Normally platers have a minimum charge which can vary between companies. Some will be 25 to
35 for a bucket full others will be 50.00 for two items. The first option makes it economic the second dose not. Quality of preparation is very important too as you cannot plate over plating so it all has to be removed, generally by light blasting. As for my rear shocker casings, I had them
polished to a chrome like finish first to remove any surface marks. No blasting. Not so easy for tiny or small objects though. I paid 20 each+ vat
for the strut casings which makes it viable if you look at the price of two new ones plus I want to retain the original parts as much as possible. He did do me a deal on the casings as the min charge was 55.00 +vat normally.
So to surmise, I used two platers. The 30 a bucket man for the odds and sods and the 55.00 min charge man for the struts.
I needed the strut casings in a hurry so I went local and they were done within 24 hrs. The other option took 3 weeks. Worth the effort. a good
build is all in the detail for me. The little things can let it down.
I have new stickers already. Is it just the two or am I missing anything?
Thanks for the compliments. Glad you like it.
Nick

irarref
14-12-2013, 01:33 PM
Ah right cheers - thats handy to know :-)

Only other stickers I know of are yellw firing stickers on tops of coils and an asbestos waring (red/black) on the suspension top but not sure Ive ever seen one for sale

Pangea
14-12-2013, 02:51 PM
Ah right cheers - thats handy to know :-)

Only other stickers I know of are yellw firing stickers on tops of coils and an asbestos waring (red/black) on the suspension top but not sure Ive ever seen one for sale

Try and use a local platers. Much less hassle and you can make sure you have all your items back. Count them in with the man and count them out.
Write it all down. Important if you have 20 or 30 bits and pieces. Nuts, washers, brackets etc. Can soon add up. Save arguments later. Look at some of their work too if possible.
Nick.

Pangea
14-12-2013, 03:10 PM
Hope this helps :thumbsup:

My screws came out ok, i just refitted them with high strength thread lock, replaced the seals on the shaft with new ones from my supplier, pretty easy job.
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131782

Hi Paul, Did you grind the screws off before removing? Were they peened? The rest of the job looks a piece of cake. I notice when stripping the
compensator valve butterfly that these screws were not peened. Just came strait out. Locktited back in. Throttle body sold as one unit I expect. No servicing allowed. Unlike the plenum. Much like the brake calipers.:hmmm:

Pangea
14-12-2013, 04:50 PM
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A few photos of engine going in. Worth spending the time on alignment. If you get it right the body should drop right on with minor adjustments.
Easy on the jack movement and keep using the axle stands. Its to easy to make a mistake here and you need to get the looms through the bulkheadas your coming down so you have to get in there. When it got to low for stands I used some rubber blocks. Safety first always.

ronrob
14-12-2013, 04:56 PM
Well Nick, we can't accuse you of hanging around!

Greg
14-12-2013, 05:56 PM
Indeed not! He's probably taking it for a test drive right now :grin:

Pangea
14-12-2013, 07:08 PM
Indeed not! He's probably taking it for a test drive right now :grin:

Done that Tuesday.:thumbsup:

irarref
14-12-2013, 07:46 PM
Did you have to specify a thickness of plating etc or did you leave it up to their discretion?

Also, IIRC I thought you said you used a ramp to tak ethe engine out but all th epics look like yuve done it with a couple of jacks/axle stands etc - which way did you do it???? If you did use jacks did you have any problems with the front bumper grounding?

Pangea
14-12-2013, 07:49 PM
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Here are some photos of the unit fitted. Some taken inside and some outside the workshop. Still have some detailing and cleaning to do yet but im pretty happy with it so far. I thought I had lost the coil sticker thats missing but it turned up in a box yesterday. Throttle bodies being stripped next week for refinish.

irarref
14-12-2013, 08:05 PM
Looks factory fresh - nice one! :-)

candellara
14-12-2013, 08:27 PM
That..............is a very nice job:thumbsup:

CLIVE77
14-12-2013, 09:57 PM
Pangea

That is simply stunning.

Its great to see another 348 brought up to 'as new' standard. I've been through a similar project with my 348 over the past few years so I am well aware of the time and dedication to detail that it needs. I've still got to do my inlet plenum as the original finish has just started to flake off and the shocks need re-plating. How do you get the Bilsteins apart so that you can plate the body?? Have you got to send it to Bilsteins or is there a special tool?

I look forward to seeing the car in the flesh at a 348 meet in the New Year.

Nosevi
14-12-2013, 11:14 PM
Pangea
I look forward to seeing the car in the flesh at a 348 meet in the New Year.

+1

Pangea
14-12-2013, 11:59 PM
Did you have to specify a thickness of plating etc or did you leave it up to their discretion?

Also, IIRC I thought you said you used a ramp to tak ethe engine out but all th epics look like yuve done it with a couple of jacks/axle stands etc - which way did you do it???? If you did use jacks did you have any problems with the front bumper grounding?

The plater said he knew what was needed so I left him to it. Result was good. Reputable firm.

I used a ramp for all the usual under car jobs and fluid drains. Also anything else I could strip out the engine bay I did here. Bumper and exhaust too. Knowing I would be doing this for 2 or 3 months I moved the car to the floor space so as not to block up the a ramp as it is in a busy
workshop. If I was just doing a cam belt service I would rather do that on a two poster ramp for ease. Plus the engine is back in fairly quickly.
So it came out on the floor with jacks and safety stands. No bumper grounding. I was looking. 1 inch clearance there. Put the front wheels on
blocks if you do. Its not difficult with jacks out or in but be careful and take some time.

Pangea
15-12-2013, 12:56 AM
A few pics of the car. Not perfect by far but getting better. From the inside out.
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AJ3XX
15-12-2013, 09:58 AM
Stunning work - looks fantastic :thumbup:

Pangea
15-12-2013, 11:34 AM
Pangea

That is simply stunning.

Its great to see another 348 brought up to 'as new' standard. I've been through a similar project with my 348 over the past few years so I am well aware of the time and dedication to detail that it needs. I've still got to do my inlet plenum as the original finish has just started to flake off and the shocks need re-plating. How do you get the Bilsteins apart so that you can plate the body?? Have you got to send it to Bilsteins or is there a special tool?

I look forward to seeing the car in the flesh at a 348 meet in the New Year.

Hi Clive, Its not to difficult to get the shocker apart. The problem is re-gassing it. To overcome this we fitted a Schrader valve to each strut
casing. This now enables the strut to be stripped ,rebuilt or re-valved without the need to send to Bilstein. This is a personal choice as I will probably do some experimenting in the future.(Valve settings). All the strut rebuilding work was carried out by my friends at AST suspension UK who
Ive worked alongside in the same building for many years. (Not for). Hope this helps.

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Trevsked
15-12-2013, 11:35 AM
Well done looks fantastic, wish I had the patience. Are tose light protectors on the front? Quite like the idea, are they available and if so where and how much.

Trevor.

Pangea
15-12-2013, 12:20 PM
Hi Trevor, the light covers came with the car. I presume they are/were an option part from Ferrari. Not looked into it but I think they are a good idea considering the cost of lights these days. I have not seen many of these fitted though. Any info anyone?

Trevsked
15-12-2013, 02:28 PM
Thanks for the info. They do look a good idea as you say and hopefully someone will come up with some information.

Trevor.

isuk
15-12-2013, 05:12 PM
The perspex covers are from the 348 Challenge car and are very expensive if still available http://www.eurospares.co.uk/partTable.asp?M=1&Mo=450&A=1&B=25226&S=

Pangea
16-12-2013, 10:47 AM
The perspex covers are from the 348 Challenge car and are very expensive if still available http://www.eurospares.co.uk/partTable.asp?M=1&Mo=450&A=1&B=25226&S=

Thanks for the info. I have found them on Eurospares now.
Nick

Pangea
18-12-2013, 03:39 PM
Here is a summary of what Ive done in this first phase of the renovation / restoration. Work started on the 11th of Sept. and finished on the
10th of December. I will hopefully starting the next phase early next year witch will mainly involve the front suspension and surrounding areas
plus brake calipers front and rear. Please ask if I can help with any aspect of this work Ive done. And thanks for any advice given so far.
Happy Xmas to you all,
Nick


Remove rear subframe unit from car.
Remove engine and gearbox from subframe.
Remove suspension, driveshafts, hubs and all other components from subframe.
Remove plastic trim around bottom of rear screen. Sticky finish.
Oil pipe repair. Slight leak. Cracked flange. Pertek repair. Oil tank to oil pump.
Replace cam belt.
Inspect cam belt idler and tensioner bearings for wear. Perfect. Replaced in recent times going by service history. Condition bears that out.
Inspect water pump for play and smooth running. Perfect.
Check and adjust valve clearances. 4 shims replaced.
Replace front cover oil seal. Slight leak.
Replace temperature sensors ,plugs and electrical connectors with late type Bosche units. Much improved pins plus its all new.
Replace water temperature gauge sensor.
Replace coolant bleed hose from housing under inlet manifold to header tank.
Replace all dome nuts on cam covers and plenum chamber .
Upgrade gearbox oil to Red line N/S.
New engine oil and filter.
Check spark plugs.
Fuel filters.
Antifreeze.
Replace bushes in rear top suspension arms. Two inners, both sides, were seized to bolts. . All 8 bushes changed.
Replace bushes in rear lower suspension arms. 22 years old. All 8 changed.
Clean fuel injectors in Ultrasound bath.
Renew fuel injector seals. 16 off.
Clean all other components on and around the engine before refitting.
Replace rear anti roll bar link bushes.
Service rear shock absorbers.
Replace rear shock absorber lower bushes.
Strip drive shaft inner and outer universal joints ,inspect and service with new grease,gators and clips.
Replace handbrake cables. 2 off.
Inspect rear hub assys. Reassemble.
Replace brake hoses with steel braided type. Goodridge.
Replace all rear metal brake lines and retainers. .
Remove radiators for inspection and cleaning. Fans tested for operation. Ok.
Remove plenum chamber from engine.
Check filter assembly in dry sump tank. Perfect.
Renew captive nuts on dry sump tank mountings.
Air con recharge.
Bleed brakes and clutch.
Replace oil cooler temp sender unit and replace wiring connectors.




Refinish Rear subframe. Shotblasted free of surface corrosion and powdercoated. Waxoil treatment in cavities.
Refinish framework and panels in engine bay. Including outer back panel and battery tray. Exhaust heat shields.
Refinish rear shock absorber casings etc.
Refinish front engine mountings.
Refinish plastic trim around bottom of rear screen.
Refinish Cam covers.
Refinish Dry sump tank .
Refinish Plenum chamber and throttle bodies.
Refinish throttle linkage assembly.
Refinish driveshafts. Powder coat shafts and metal protection paint on UJ.
Refinish main coolant water pipes on bulkhead.
Refinish all rear wheel arch liners. 2 pack paint.
Refinish rear anti roll bar and brackets.
Refinish top and bottom rear suspension arms and brackets.
Refinish rear road springs.
Refinish various clips, nuts ,bolts and brackets in passivated yellow zinc. To many to list.
Refinish rear hubs.
Refinish various brackets where needed.

ronrob
18-12-2013, 04:36 PM
A good bit more than engine bay and rear end restoration Nick! Lovely thorough job - you have been a busy boy for the last couple of months. Bet that you notice quite a difference to the feel of the car.
Redline make a difference?
Thanks for posting and all the very best to you too for Christmas and the New Year.
Ron

Trevsked
18-12-2013, 05:31 PM
isuk,

Thanks for clearing that up and the link. Be nice if someone made these at a reasonable cost now.

Trevor.

Pangea
18-12-2013, 07:25 PM
A good bit more than engine bay and rear end restoration Nick! Lovely thorough job - you have been a busy boy for the last couple of months. Bet that you notice quite a difference to the feel of the car.
Redline make a difference?
Thanks for posting and all the very best to you too for Christmas and the New Year.
Ron

To be honest Ron, Ive only driven it in traffic so far. Road test and bringing it home amounts to 12 miles. I need to get it back to the workshop
in January to check the wheel alignment but im not anticipating any massive changes there. Ive set it once when I first got the car so will
be interesting to see what difference the bushes have made. Shims went back in the correct places on build up and shocks the same height. Does not feel a mile out though. Not going to the limit without checking. As for the Red Line gear oil Ive only driven the car with it being warm first, and the only problem I had is the normal cold 2nd gear issue. Shift felt good on the test drive. I will give you a better idea when Ive had a bit more time in the car. Hurricanes permitting.

Pangea
22-12-2013, 12:50 PM
A few more shots I have found. A couple showing the single box Ferrari exhaust system. Not black in standard form. This one had been painted
with VHT paint at some point so I gave it a refresh with the same. I quite like the sound of this system. Its not stupidly loud and does not drone
at cruise on the motorway. The other two are of the wheel arch area. Not my best shots by far but gives an idea of the condition. Brakes to be dealt with soon. While the car is back on the ramp with the wheels down I do the final tightening of all the suspension bolts. I assembled it loose so all the bushes can centralize when the weight goes on. Something I normally do with this type of bush.

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irarref
23-12-2013, 09:09 AM
Looking good! :-)


Just an observation, there's (I believe an official) mod to improve the operation of the oil temp gauge which is to run an extra earthing lead from one of the bolts on the bottom of the oil tank to the chassis. I've got it on mine but couldn't find a pic but search fro "Official Ferrari 348 Oil Temperature Repair " on www.my348.com and there's a pic there.

Looking forward to see what you do with front end :-)

Pangea
23-12-2013, 10:01 AM
Looking good! :-)


Just an observation, there's (I believe an official) mod to improve the operation of the oil temp gauge which is to run an extra earthing lead from one of the bolts on the bottom of the oil tank to the chassis. I've got it on mine but couldn't find a pic but search fro "Official Ferrari 348 Oil Temperature Repair " on www.my348.com and there's a pic there.

Looking forward to see what you do with front end :-)

Yes, Ive seen that mod on the oil tank. The gauge does work ok but I will probably get an earth lead made up and do it anyway. Prevention
rather than cure. Thanks for the tip though.
Nick.

isuk
23-12-2013, 12:27 PM
isuk,

Thanks for clearing that up and the link. Be nice if someone made these at a reasonable cost now.

Trevor.

That shouldn't be too difficult a project for a keen 348 owner to take on. All you'll need is a pattern from the originals then take them to a perspex cutting specialist. I've had to have a few parts made for my Dinos and these light covers look very simple in comparison.

Pangea
28-12-2013, 04:55 PM
Some shots of the engine cover being prepped and painted. I was only going to do the grill but decided to do the complete cover instead. The whole car will be painted after all the mechanical resto is done. Thanks to my good friend John Tooze for the final painting. I prepped the bits and pieces.

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irarref
28-12-2013, 05:50 PM
Just wondering - did you strip paint off first? Just curious as could do with doing mine but its chipped in certain places usually in the corners where the grills cross - right pain! :-(

Pangea
28-12-2013, 07:47 PM
Just wondering - did you strip paint off first? Just curious as could do with doing mine but its chipped in certain places usually in the corners where the grills cross - right pain! :-(

Just because the grill is difficult to prep I had it carefully blasted with a soft media. You want a not to course a finish. Makes for a much easier job in the long run. It was etch primed then before the main primer. I flatted the grill by hand before the top coats were applied. (laborious for a spanner man). The blasting gets right in the corners and awkward areas and removes any corrosion that may be present but as I said, carefully. Another thing is to get a good painter involved. Not the sort of job you want to do 2 or 3 times. You really need a good gun finish on the grill as polishing this with a machine would be tough/impossible without a mishap. The rest was prepped and painted simply enough. Finally cover was cut back with various grades of wet and dry then machine polished. May go back to matt black yet though.

irarref
28-12-2013, 10:02 PM
Ah right cheers - total nightmare to look after - spent a few hours on mine on boxing day polishing it and although it looks better as mentioned it has chips in places - usually a corner.

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Pangea
28-12-2013, 10:42 PM
Ah right cheers - total nightmare to look after - spent a few hours on mine on boxing day polishing it and although it looks better as mentioned it has chips in places - usually a corner.

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Has the grill been painted or is it the original finish? Mine was defo original and it looked tired. Takes a lot of punishment really. Lots of heat. Also loads of delicate sharp edges to chip I know. There was no what I would call corrosion on it but was a little faded.

irarref
28-12-2013, 10:50 PM
No outs original paint but right in the very awkward to reach corners its flaked in places plus on the underside by the lock its got aluminium "corrosion" ie. a bit flakey. You can also see slight yellowing of undrcoat in places where its been polished too much. Will do for moment but one day Ill need to get it done. Might even have a go myself after watchng the factory training video! LOL

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t5gXRMSpmpk (1.18 if you cant be boteted to watch all of it)

Pangea
28-12-2013, 11:08 PM
No outs original paint but right in the very awkward to reach corners its flaked in places plus on the underside by the lock its got aluminium "corrosion" ie. a bit flakey. You can also see slight yellowing of undrcoat in places where its been polished too much. Will do for moment but one day Ill need to get it done. Might even have a go myself after watchng the factory training video! LOL

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t5gXRMSpmpk (1.18 if you cant be boteted to watch all of it)

Haha, Yep, its that simple. Hey, who cares about a bit of dust.

Pangea
23-01-2014, 06:44 PM
At last found a bit of time to get back on the car. Throttle bodies were the main thing on the agenda. Not a difficult job to strip and rebuild. In my opinion its the only way to refinish these properly no matter what the coating. You can see from the before shots that the preparation of the original surface looks to be nil. Same for the inlet plenum assy. No wonder the paint peels off so readily. I blew most of it off with an air line. As like the plenum I went for a textured powder coat finish to match. A few pics of the before,striped and after. Hopefully back on the car in the next few days. Trial fitting looks good.Will have some more pics then.

Pangea
28-01-2014, 08:25 PM
Throttle bodies back on at last. All running well. Im getting to the end of the road with this part of the job. A few minor details here and there. Im happy with it though. Its worth all the effort. Lots more to do elsewhere yet.

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Nosevi
28-01-2014, 09:09 PM
looking great :thumbsup:

irarref
28-01-2014, 09:49 PM
Very nice! :-)

Yorkshirelad
30-01-2014, 12:30 PM
Just wondering - did you strip paint off first? Just curious as could do with doing mine but its chipped in certain places usually in the corners where the grills cross - right pain! :-(

In the west yorkshire area i could not find anyone who would undertake the paint stripping, looked at vapour blasting, soft media, no luck. the acid stripping is to be avoided as the unit is very difficult to get a complete wash from.. if i could get it done the painter says its no problem to paint :grin:

Pangea
30-01-2014, 12:45 PM
Its all about the man on the blaster really. Could be done with normal grit but at fairly low pressure as not to distort anything. Ive seen items ruined by excessive pressure so needs to be done with a bit of tlc. I can understand some peoples reluctance to work on it. Not impossible. Experience needed. Good luck with it.
Nick.

achaddy
30-01-2014, 02:07 PM
Looking outstanding. Brings back fond memories of my old 348.

J70
30-01-2014, 02:09 PM
Very impressive work , sir. :)

Suffering plenum envy, a bit.

Pangea
30-01-2014, 03:09 PM
Very impressive work , sir. :)

Suffering plenum envy, a bit.

There is nothing worse than plenum envy. I know. :wink3:

Pangea
03-02-2014, 04:33 PM
These are the seals to go between the bottom rear wheel tubs and the body. They were looking a bit scruffy on the ends so Ive replaced them. The fatter one matches to a BMW E36 boot seal and the other a Saab 9000 transverse bonnet seal. I found these in my local walk around breakers yard. Very close and will do the job nicely. Cost 1.

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Pangea
07-02-2014, 07:10 PM
A good bit more than engine bay and rear end restoration Nick! Lovely thorough job - you have been a busy boy for the last couple of months. Bet that you notice quite a difference to the feel of the car.
Redline make a difference?
Thanks for posting and all the very best to you too for Christmas and the New Year.
Ron

Ron. To answer your question about the Redline oil. Took the opportunity to have a quick drive about today as weather was A1. From cold 2nd gear is still no were near what I regard as correct but it did go in stiffly first time which is normally a no no. When hot the gear change is definitely a bit smoother and not snicky. Considering the cold weather and slowish drive there seems to be an improvement. I have used this oil in quite a few times before in other gearboxes for similar faults. Some you win some you don't. I don't think any oil will cure the second gear issue totally so any improvement is a win. Maybe I will take a look at the cables next. Worth a go. I needed a little bit more than the four bottles shown to get to the top mark on the gearbox dipstick which I would recommend doing.

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ronrob
07-02-2014, 07:46 PM
Ron. To answer your question about the Redline oil. Took the opportunity to have a quick drive about today as weather was A1. From cold 2nd gear is still no were near what I regard as correct but it did go in stiffly first time which is normally a no no. When hot the gear change is definitely a bit smoother and not snicky. Considering the cold weather and slowish drive there seems to be an improvement. I have used this oil in quite a few times before in other gearboxes for similar faults. Some you win some you don't. I don't think any oil will cure the second gear issue totally so any improvement is a win. Maybe I will take a look at the cables next. Worth a go. I needed a little bit more than the four bottles shown to get to the top mark on the gearbox dipstick which I would recommend doing.

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Thanks for posting Nick. You will get a better feel for the effect of the Redline with a bit more use of the car. I stick with Shell Spirax in my 355 as I can always get a gear when cold and when hot second is no
different from the others (which select fine).
Wish I had the same choice of scrappers here as you have!
All the best,
Ron

irarref
07-02-2014, 08:18 PM
Nick - bin that oil and get the superlight shockproof (the yellow stuff) and you'll be able to get 2nd gear from cold anytime :-)



http://www.ferrari348manual.com/t13-transmission-gearbox-oil-change-using-redline-superlight-shockproof-oil

Nosevi
07-02-2014, 09:43 PM
Got to say, use the standard ferrari approved stuff (I'm guessing - put in by my main dealer) and never had a problem with 2nd straight from cold. Think adjustment of the cables has a lot to do with it as well as the type of oil.

Pangea
07-02-2014, 10:52 PM
[QUOTE=irarref;758920]Nick - bin that oil and get the superlight shockproof (the yellow stuff) and you'll be able to get 2nd gear from cold anytime :-)

Ok Jeff, I will look into this a bit more and I will speak to the UK rep. again. I spoke to him on the phone and he advised the use of NS after a conversation about the performance. Its seems to me there are a lot of different "feeling" gearchanges out there. Lucky if you have one spot on. I remember servicing a LHD 348 years ago and thinking the car was stunning to look at but driving from the left seat and fighting the gearbox almost put me off for life. It didn't obviously. :hmmm:

Pangea
07-02-2014, 10:59 PM
Got to say, use the standard ferrari approved stuff (I'm guessing - put in by my main dealer) and never had a problem with 2nd straight from cold. Think adjustment of the cables has a lot to do with it as well as the type of oil.

Get this too. Its more than oil for some.

irarref
07-02-2014, 11:10 PM
Nick - ignore the rep! LOL

I had pretty much the same conversation with a redline rep who advised against it and I ended up buying the same oil as you ie. NS. Put that it and put up woth an awkward gearchange for about another year. Finaly. after being sick of it I decided to try the superlight reasoning I could always just drain it out and put the NS back in.

Difference was like night and day! When I had the NS in you couldnt get 2nd at all for about the first 5 mins and all the changes were a bit rough. The only time the gearbox felt pleasa to use was on a hot summers day after driving about 30 mins :-(

However, after putting the superlight in even in the depths of winter when the car had not been used for a couple of weeks I could get 2nd immediately. It makes the gearbox like a normal car :-) If your still unsure search on the fchat - loads of people have done it. One thing I will say is it gets better with the more miles you do.

NB I can appreciate what people are saying about adjustment etc but if your gearbox is better when warm thats to do with the oil not the cables - if youve got problems with your cables that will be thee all the time.

Pangea
07-02-2014, 11:24 PM
Ok Jeff, I was going drive it for a while and see what happens. Not going to stress about it. All is good.:thumbsup:

irarref
20-02-2014, 04:49 PM
Saw this today and thought it may be of interest....

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/348-355/438285-big-improvement-348-shifting.html

Pangea
23-02-2014, 06:06 PM
Thanks Jeff. I saw this. I don't find my cables to be that tight but will give it a spin next time the car is up in the air.All worth a go.:thumbsup:

Pangea
07-03-2014, 06:22 PM
Some more new bits. Ready for wheel referb as soon as I can get on it.

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Pangea
01-04-2014, 04:35 PM
Last couple of bits to compete the rear end Job. Spent a bit of time to sort out the louvres as they were rather misshapen. Not perfect but looking ok now. Excuse the rain drops. Next part of the resto will be the front suspension and surrounding area so I will start a new thread for that when it begins. Time to drive it now.:thumbsup:

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Pangea
21-09-2014, 01:42 PM
Its that time of the year again. Summer season over so Ive decided to crack on with some work on the car. Front end is the focus now which will entail the suspension and surrounding areas. I was going to start a new thread for this work but Ive decided to stick it on the end of this one instead to keep it all in the same place. I will be doing most of the work with the car on the floor as I don't really need to tie up ramp space and only need minimal access to the underside.Here she is ready to go.

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First thing was to remove the boot carpet for access to the steering rack bolts, shock absorber top mounts and probably the bumper bolts. Also nice to see what the condition is like generally. All looks good.

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Pangea
21-09-2014, 02:53 PM
Here are some general condition shots. I have removed the wheel arch liners and louvred panels in some to inspect behind and then to refurb them. All panels and chassis components look to be in good order. Could be an area of some concern but I'm happy with what I've found.

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Pangea
21-09-2014, 03:02 PM
Some more general condition shots. Just a very small amount of surface corrosion in a couple of places. Happy to say the chassis is solid. Minor cosmetic tidying will sort that out.

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Pangea
21-09-2014, 03:15 PM
Here are the wheel arch liners. Feel quite brittle so beware of damaging when removing. Held in with half a dozen or so small screws. Some needed a bit of patience but I managed to get them out ok.

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Pangea
05-10-2014, 04:32 PM
Strip down of front suspension is not a difficult job for people with a general knowledge of mechanics and some ability with a tool set although when it comes to removing the steering rack and roll bar these can be very challenging. I dont have the time to go through every nut and bolt but I will highlight a few things that you should note when dismantling. Plus there is plenty of info on most of this work out there I'm sure. Firstly, remove the brake discs,callipers and brake pad wear warning wiring.
Remove ABS sensor. Can sometimes be very tight so be careful levering on it if so. Plenty of WD40 or the like first.

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Then the track rod end with appropriate splitter. Do not use a hammer directly on the hub carrier to shock it out as its aluminium and will damage the surface easily.

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Remove metal brake pipes from rubber hoses located on the small brackets behind the hub. 17mm spanner for the rubber hose and an 11mm brake pipe spanner.

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Looking behind the hub you can see the castle nuts for the top and bottom ball joints. These are secured with split
pins. They all looked fairly rusty so rather than struggling with the split pins in this position I decided to undo the ball
joints at the suspension arms instead and deal with the pins on the bench where I would have better access.

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Removing the bottom ball joint bolts. The inner one also holds the bottom of the shock absorber.
Photo at the bottom for some reason.
Take note of the position of the shims between the arm and ball joint front and rear. Do not mix these up as they control your caster angles so I would advise bagging them up and marking the position they are removed from as you go.
Obviously a wheel alignment will be carried out later and these numbers checked but at least you are back where
you started. I would not expect to see a big change in caster angles if repositioned correctly.

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Here are the shims.

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Complete hub removed.

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irarref
05-10-2014, 05:22 PM
Nice work (and photos)! :-)

Pangea
05-10-2014, 05:38 PM
With the hub removed there is good access to the shock absorber. The top mounting nuts are in the under bonnet
area. On the near side they are not accessible without removing the ABS ecu. An easy job. Just two nuts.

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Shock absorber top attachment nuts. Don't undo the 17mm nut in the middle. Just the four 13mm.

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Here is the ECU to move. Ive removed the securing nuts in the one photo. You can flop it to one side then. I did
not disconnect it but you could.

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Shocker removed.

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Pangea
05-10-2014, 06:04 PM
Forgot this pic. Undoing top ball joint. Never been good at posting without mistakes. Im better just playing with
spanners. :hmmm: Two 13mm nuts and bolts.

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Pangea
05-10-2014, 06:09 PM
Nice work (and photos)! :-)

Photos not so good. Artificial light issue. Will try to do better with a different camera as my phone is not up to the dark
area stuff really.

lotusk
05-10-2014, 06:45 PM
Keep them coming Nick

I love these threads
Always learn something.

Pangea
05-10-2014, 07:06 PM
Keep them coming Nick

I love these threads
Always learn something.

Im trying to catch up with my posting. Ive not had the time as you probably realise. :grin:

Pangea
05-10-2014, 08:09 PM
Now you can disconnect the anti roll bar each end. Just undo the nut and on the bar and maybe the nut on the lower
arm ARB pivot bolt( on the right of the small washer) and pull the link off. Not related but you can see in this photo, I also clamped off the brake hose.
I did this before removing the callipers so as not to have brake fluid running about while stripping out the hubs etc.
When hose is free to dangle you can then let it drain into a container. One of my hated substances over the years. Im replacing the hoses.

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You will need to disconnect the brakes pipe from the rubber hoses if you are removing the top arms as the rear bolt
will be obstructed. I don't recommend bending it to that angle.

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The access for the retaining bolts for the front lower arms is from under the car. Under the front compartment floor
there are two large grommet which conceal the front nuts. The rear ones are not covered but a little tucked away. Ive placed a ratchet on one to indicate where. Not hard to find.

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Removed lower arm with anti roll bar link and pivot. This pivot bolt was seized and I had to use heat to get it moving.
Had to sacrifice a couple of decent link bushes though. Pay attention when you pull the arm out of the chassis as there are camber control shim stacks on both fixing studs. Again, don't mix them up or you will be lucky to be close to the
original settings which I know were not far out on this car. They are different thicknesses. Just in case a jumbling up
occurred for some reason and the fact I'm getting the shims re plated, I measured each shim stack with a digital
verniers so at least I've got the total thickness of each end on each side. Write it all down.

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Top ams are simple fixed position items with no adjustment. Just undo the two a side main chassis mounting bolts.
Plus the brake pipes of course.

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Pangea
05-10-2014, 10:36 PM
Most of the main suspension components removed from one side.

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Roll bar chassis attachment points can be undone now. Best tool for this is a 13mm ratcheting spanner.
Lever the clamps and bushes off. They can be tight. Remove clamp captive bolts from chassis. May break up like mine.
I will deal with that later.

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The roll bar will be free to move around now but you cannot take
it out yet. Next you have to deal with the steering rack. Go inside the cabin and locate and undo the lower steering
shaft bolt connected to the rack. Pull bolt fully out and disconnect shaft. Remove the rubber grommet.
Job for a small man really. Outside the car remove N/S track rod end.

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Next, locate the rack mounting bolts and remove. Behind the carpet in the rear wall of the boot space are two long
rubber grommets. One each side. The bolts are behind these. 13mm. Note the air con pipe I'm holding out the way.

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The steering rack will be moveable now. Thats all very well but the removal of the rack is almost impossible to
describe in detail. I tried so many angles ,turns and twists until it came out and in the end I had someone help it
along from the other side of the car. You have to juggle the roll bar and the air con pipe I indicated earlier too.
Its one of those logical thinking jobs.You just have to get stuck in and work it out for yourself on the day. Not for the
faint hearted or easily frustrated. I read some posts on the subject and they seemed very helpful but in reality there
was a lot of swearing etc. I took it out of the drivers side. The main problem is the splined input shaft that goes to the column. You have to try and rotate the rack to clear the bulkhead hole but the mounting brackets of the rack foul up
on the roll bar and pipework etc. Eventually you find an angle on it all. Cant say much more apart from don't force the issue. It would not work. Its a juggling act. All goes through that tunnel. Somehow.

137747

The roll bar is another story. With the rack out of the way you can now remove it. But, it does not fit through the hole
. No matter how I tried I could not get it through. I spoke to another member from here,Paul, who had done this job
a few years ago and he told me it was tight enough to scratch his newly painted bar on the way back in so I guessed
it would need some force. I found this position to be the best. With someone pulling the other end I used a heavy
hide mallet and hit the vertical part of the bar which forced it through the gap. Its tight. Use some grease. Be careful
with break pipes and wiring etc. Don't hit the threads.

137748

Here they are.

137749

lotusk
05-10-2014, 11:02 PM
Here they are.

Crikey...what a pain that sounds!

Now you gotta put them back!

Pangea
06-10-2014, 04:28 PM
Here are a few pics of typical bush problems I found. The first is of the lower shock absorber bushes. Although not
that bad and have been passing MOTs there is still some deformation and separation going on so I will replace them.
I have to take them out anyway as casings will be re plated so bushes need removing for that.

137756

These are lower arm bushes. Again some deformation and wear plus the old favourite of bush cracking. Not easy to
spot sometimes if in a hidden position. e.g. inside brackets. These are ready to be replaced for sure.

137757137758

Pangea
06-10-2014, 05:01 PM
Here is what a bush should look like. Plus a top arm finished and ready to fit.

137760137761

irarref
06-10-2014, 06:25 PM
As my kids would say...I am wellJell! LOL Very nice

Davo456
06-10-2014, 07:00 PM
is the suspension arm just painted ? if so what with ?
or some other treatment ?

Wondering about getting mine done, if I need to replace the bushes - there is a little clank when I go over potholes, but not sure whether its front or rear yet.

Any advice would be apprecaited.

Carlo348
06-10-2014, 07:05 PM
Great thread Nick. Are you shot blasting the arms and powder coating? Or replacing?

Just seen Davo response......looks like we are all assessing this job soon as bushes are starting to crack like yours.

Davo456
06-10-2014, 07:20 PM
just another thought - had you thought about Superflex polyurethane bushes ?

Had them on my Alfa 164 back in the day, and seemed very good - not sure if you can get them for Ferraris ?

Pangea
06-10-2014, 07:30 PM
is the suspension arm just painted ? if so what with ?
or some other treatment ?

Wondering about getting mine done, if I need to replace the bushes - there is a little clank when I go over potholes, but not sure whether its front or rear yet.

Any advice would be apprecaited.

Clank could be anything. Hard to tell without hearing it. I would check the antiroll bar bushes and ball joints first if you think its suspension related..Good starting point. You need to identify the area the sound is coming from really.
The arms are shot blasted and powder coated. Bush change recommend if you go this route. I think most powdercoaters would prefer this option as they always comment on how the bush may perish when baked.

Pangea
06-10-2014, 07:42 PM
just another thought - had you thought about Superflex polyurethane bushes ?

Had them on my Alfa 164 back in the day, and seemed very good - not sure if you can get them for Ferraris ?

The ride can be harsh. Nothing wrong with the product if that suits you. In my experience they need periodic
lubrication. Not for me now although Ive had them on other cars like yourself. You can get them For Ferraris
plus there are some other non standard options too if you look around.

Pangea
06-10-2014, 07:51 PM
Great thread Nick. Are you shot blasting the arms and powder coating? Or replacing?

Just seen Davo response......looks like we are all assessing this job soon as bushes are starting to crack like yours.

Powder coating and blasting. The cracking is not so bad although that is the sign things are getting tired in my eyes.
I would be more concerned about the other photo and the gap between the arm and bush. As I said it can be hard
to spot on the car. Only stripping revealed the gap. :thumbsup:

Carlo348
06-10-2014, 07:59 PM
Thanks. :thumbsup: are you overhauling the shocks yourself?

Davo456
06-10-2014, 08:37 PM
You may want to consider coating the arms in acf-50 when you have fitted them.

It's an aircraft rust protection spray grease, I've seen it recommended by a few others - no real experience of it myself.

I just tried to jack the car up, but can't feel any movement in the suspension. May be better if I get it on a 4 point lift rather than just a trolley jack!

Pangea
06-10-2014, 11:56 PM
You may want to consider coating the arms in acf-50 when you have fitted them.

It's an aircraft rust protection spray grease, I've seen it recommended by a few others - no real experience of it myself.

I just tried to jack the car up, but can't feel any movement in the suspension. May be better if I get it on a 4 point lift rather than just a trolley jack!
As I said it could be anything. Maybe nothing to do with the suspension.

Pangea
07-10-2014, 12:08 AM
Here is an unusual shot. View of the channel where the steering rack and roll bar are located. As you can see there are a few things to negotiate when removing and refitting.

137807

candellara
07-10-2014, 08:27 AM
As I said it could be anything. Maybe nothing to do with the suspension.

Valid point. I've been chasing what i thought was a front suspension knock for a couple of years. Turned out that it was the bonnet internals knocking when traversing bumps :huh:

Pangea
07-10-2014, 08:43 AM
Thanks. :thumbsup: are you overhauling the shocks yourself?

A friends suspension company do the internals for me. New oil, gas and check all is well in there. I do the rest.

Pangea
07-10-2014, 08:52 AM
Another pic with the rack and roll bar removed.

137808

Pangea
07-10-2014, 05:24 PM
Rack looks a tad mucky. I don't think its any sort of leak as such. just over the years its sweated out of the covers and been covered with dust etc. Not easy to clean properly when fitted. There is semi fluid grease in the rack not oil, and
that generally dose not leak easily. The chrome centre tube of the rack is fairly corroded so will need refinishing as
will the track rods. There were no faults with the mechanical side of the rack just cosmetic tidying to be done.

137813

137814

Covers were coming off for re plating so here are some shots of whats in there. Nothing unusual.

First cover removed reveals the preload spring and plunger for the rack. You can see it in the hole with the plunger
removed. Also there are three metal shims which will be factory set. These are different thicknesses.
Make sure they go back in.



The second cover removed reveals the pinion bearing and shim pack. Again factory set and need to go back in.
The bearing was well lubricated. Ive wiped it clean so you can see it. Shim pack in place.




137815137816[ATTACH]

XRS
08-10-2014, 12:40 PM
Saw the car in the flesh last week when my car went into the workshop. It really is as good as it looks in the pictures, Nick's attention to detail is outstanding and we chatted about the lengths he is going to to make sure everything is right, down to getting bits re-plated because the current Ferrari parts come in the wrong colour!

The rear end is stunning and I have no reason to expect that the front will be otherwise.

Keep up the good work, Nick.

Pangea
08-10-2014, 04:03 PM
Saw the car in the flesh last week when my car went into the workshop. It really is as good as it looks in the pictures, Nick's attention to detail is outstanding and we chatted about the lengths he is going to to make sure everything is right, down to getting bits re-plated because the current Ferrari parts come in the wrong colour!

The rear end is stunning and I have no reason to expect that the front will be otherwise.

Keep up the good work, Nick.

Thanks mate. It was good to chat. Its been a while since I saw you last. F car on the way for you then? Hope your oil
leak is sorted. Its a fairly common fault. Keep watching and hope to see you again in the near future. N.

Pangea
08-10-2014, 05:17 PM
Flaking chrome and surface corrosion being removed from centre tube of rack. It will be etch primed then painted in
an aluminium effect two pack paint. Not possible to re-chrome as this would have been done before assembly
of the rack components. This will probably last a lot longer. Inspection covers have been re plated, steering arms painted and new gaiters fitted. All ready to go. Looks a lot better now.

137827137828137829137830

irarref
08-10-2014, 05:34 PM
Did you do the plating yourself or send it out? (only ask as toying with the idea of doing some DIY plating! LOL)

Pangea
08-10-2014, 07:16 PM
Wheel bearing and hub separated from carrier. I wanted to do a small amount of cosmetic work here so I had to take them apart. Sorry no pics of the strip as my phone had gone flat. I will do some when rebuilding it. Pretty simple stuff. No issues with the bearings before hand.


137831137832

Stripped hub and bearing. Note I've bagged the balls outer and inner for their respective positions , outer being hub
side. They need to go back in the right place.!! Also the main body of the bearing, mark in or out.

137833

The bearing races and respective balls all look in good shape.

137834

Here is the hub with outer race still attached. You would replace this race if you were renewing the bearing.
I don't need to do that as Im reusing them. Getting this off is the worst part of the job and you won't do it without
having the right kit around. It will almost certainly need a lot of heat to get it moving. Its hard to get hold of it with a puller and would probably still be to tight without some heat. Need a cold chisel and a hammer loads of heat and
hitting in the right place. Ive renewed one 348 front bearing so that was what worked. That was a while ago so no
pics.

137835

Pangea
08-10-2014, 07:57 PM
Did you do the plating yourself or send it out? (only ask as toying with the idea of doing some DIY plating! LOL)

Hi Jeff, That crossed my mind too but to be honest I can't be bothered. To easy to get industrial grade plating for
reasonable money. Im not sure the process would come out the same as it may look ok but the thickness of the
plating would worry me. I don't really know though. I just use a decent local plater. Not the cheapest but the results
are good so far. You want it to last. And normally a very good turn around time which is useful.

Pangea
08-10-2014, 08:41 PM
Hub and bearing carriers/ steering knuckle prepped and painted.

137836137837137838

Few pics of struts being stripped and reassembled. Springs have been powder coated, Strut casings re plated and new bushes fitted.

137839137840

A pair of suspension arms ready to fit.

irarref
08-10-2014, 08:54 PM
I note you've still got the modal marks on the arms - did you make a stencil or something to do that?

Pangea
08-10-2014, 09:23 PM
I note you've still got the modal marks on the arms - did you make a stencil or something to do that?

Tweaked the text on a computer program then cut them on a machine. Not by me. A friend. They are stencils. Very
tricky to do. I spent ages getting the stencils ready on the arms before painting. Its hard to get them off the
backing paper. Look ok though. Got some for the rear suspension too. That won't be fun. Car OCD I'm
afraid.

Carlo348
08-10-2014, 10:08 PM
Tweaked the text on a computer program then cut them on a machine. Not by me. A friend. They are stencils. Very
tricky to do. I spent ages getting the stencils ready on the arms before painting. Its hard to get them off the
backing paper. Look ok though. Got some for the rear suspension too. That won't be fun. Car OCD I'm
afraid.
Its all in the detail. Fantastic work though. :thumbsup:

sssdu01
08-10-2014, 10:21 PM
Nice work being done here and its good to see the detailed pictures as it shows what anyone could do ....... let the Car OCD live on :grin: the world is a better place for it

Pangea
09-10-2014, 10:58 PM
Front bumper removed. All looks good and solid with no corrosion,damage or repairs anywhere.Just needs freshening
up.

137848137847137849

Mike01606
09-10-2014, 11:06 PM
Front bumper removed. All looks good and solid with no corrosion,damage or repairs anywhere.Just needs freshening up.

Looks in great order Nick:thumbsup: I bet there was some trepidation when you pulled the bumper away......

Pangea
09-10-2014, 11:28 PM
Looks in great order Nick:thumbsup: I bet there was some trepidation when you pulled the bumper away......

I knew the car was pretty solid when I bought it but you never know whats hidden until you look properly. Normally after you've bought it. All good though. Im happy.:thumbsup:

Pangea
10-10-2014, 06:10 PM
Here are the two exhaust mountings. I forgot to do these last year. As I was getting more plating done I thought this was a good time to sort them out. Amazing how many bits involved. Only Ferrari could do that.Some before and after
shots. Simple enough to strip down. Very happy with the results. All the bits from one unit.:shocked:
137858

137859137860137861

Pangea
10-10-2014, 08:07 PM
Here are some pics of a wheel bearing going back together.

First thing on is the large dust cover. It presses onto the hub. Can be a bit tight but can be carefully tapped or pressed into place with a wooden block and main body of the bearing.

137867

Next is the bearing seal. This has a rubber inner edge as you can see and seals against the hub. A bit of grease on
the rubber won't hurt.

137868

Grease up the race and all the balls and place them as shown.

137869

Now the main body of the bearing. There is a grooved side for the inner seal to locate so its easy to know what side
to fit. Grease the race and sit it on the balls.

137870137871

Grease up the other balls and cage and assemble like this then pop in the inner race.



Place it in position and the bottom cage will engage with the other balls. Add some more grease and rotate the balls...Then press it on to the hub shaft. Don't use to much force. Just enough to seat it. It should go on fairly easy. You can see a line on the inner of the race where it should be. I used a large press for this job but you could get away with
a good vice.

Pangea
11-10-2014, 06:21 PM
Given the chassis a good freshen up. Just a very light coat of wax oil based stone guard. Keeps all the detail on view.
Dosnt need anything else really. Managed to get the rack and roll bar in too. A bit of a puzzle to say the least.

137910137911137912137913137914

Pangea
16-10-2014, 11:04 PM
A bit more on the hub. When you fit the hub shaft into the hub there is a dowel fitted to it which must engage the
cutout shown in the first pic. Put the washer and nut on and do them up all the way, hand tight for now. I would torque the nut up later with the wheel on the ground as its quite a high and you can't really hold on to the hub to do it.
Plus I'm waiting for some new nuts so no point now.

138011138012138013138014

Here is the hub fitted to the steering knuckle/hub carrier. The six bolts attach to the main body of the wheel bearing.
Ive used new bolts and plates here. The brake pipe bracket was not available when I ordered some so I've refurbed
them.

Carlo348
16-10-2014, 11:23 PM
Fantastic work Nick. Are you going for concourse. Its certainly way ahead of most of us. This is my next task, not sure i'll be able to get near this work keep it up though :thumbsup:

Pangea
16-10-2014, 11:28 PM
Bottom arm fitted with balljoint and anti roll bar link and spindle. Remember the shims for the ball joint.
Also a top arm fitted with ball joint.

138017

138018

Here are a couple of shots of the suspension put together loosely for some pics.

138019138020

Pangea
16-10-2014, 11:53 PM
Fantastic work Nick. Are you going for concourse. Its certainly way ahead of most of us. This is my next task, not sure i'll be able to get near this work keep it up though :thumbsup:

Thanks Carl, I didn't set out with any concourse aspirations. I just want to put the car back to a nice original looking
finish. Ive a way to go yet though. Paint next. With black sills. :hmmm:

Carlo348
17-10-2014, 12:01 AM
Thanks Carl, I didn't set out with any concourse aspirations. I just want to put the car back to a nice original looking
finish. Ive a way to go yet though. Paint next. With black sills. :hmmm:
Haha...that'll cause a few subjective comments... but its factory spec and it gives a better stance on the car (especially from the rear). I love the colour coded sills but I keep toying with it and guess as the cars age (itll be with me for. 15+yrs) im sure ill return it to original, which all ferraris ultimately end up. Just got to store those little bits away like the gearknob, wheel centres..and look for an unmolested targa roof.

Quigs
17-10-2014, 09:47 AM
This is better than any workshop manual...great work :thumbsup:

CLIVE77
17-10-2014, 10:16 AM
Nick

What you're doing is fantastic. Its pretty much exactly what I did four years ago with all my suspension - brings back a lot of memories. However, I failed miserably with the stencilled numbers on the wishbones. I'm going to be replating the lower bolts and some shims again this winter (four years use takes the shine off:thumbsdow) so now would be a good time to get the stenciling done properly. Any tips would be gratefully received.

Keep up the good work!:thumbsup::thumbsup:

Clive

Pangea
17-10-2014, 05:53 PM
This is better than any workshop manual...great work :thumbsup:
Thanks,
You are right about the workshop manuals. Ive got both original books. Next to useless apart from the odd thing.
I have early and late parts manuals too which is what I use the most. Part numbers are at hand too which is very
useful. This is pretty basic mechanical stuff though. Its the little things like shims etc which count here.

Pangea
17-10-2014, 11:15 PM
Here is the air con rad and air conveyer. Fitted under NSF wing/bumper. Its had a general tidy up and clean out.
It all comes apart quite simply. A four bolts and four self tappers. There are three body mounting points with
grommets fitted.

138034

138035

Seal replaced around inlet of air conveyor.

138036

Air con rad fitted to body now with fan attached. You can see the fitting points. A blob of wax oil on all the fixings is a good move. Long term protection. Pipework has been fitted too.

138037

Pangea
17-10-2014, 11:53 PM
As for the brake calipers Ive decided not to repaint them. I quite like the original look and they are not marked in any significant way. Ive just given them a deep clean. The seals and pistons are all in good shape with no cracking or
perishing. I didn't go any further than whats shown. You can't get new seals for these callipers that I know of so I will leave well alone incase of any mishap. The dust seals have a sort of crimping around the edge.They don't look like they want to be replaced at any time. Ive had no problem with the calipers anyway.

138038

138039

138040

Brake pipe/hose set up. Im using Goodridge black braided here. Always worked for me in the past.

138041

irarref
18-10-2014, 02:44 AM
Looks really good that :-)

Couple of questions for you....

Your hard pipe looks a different shape to mine - is that how it ended up or did you bend it some more to get it to fit?

How easy do those bolts come out that secure the 2 halves of the caliper? When I originally asked companies about a refurb they refused on the grounds that they reckoned the bolts would snap so would do the calipers?!!!! I only ask as I have one more to do and I'd like to take the 2 halves apart so I can get the runner plates out and clean any corrosion underneath them - apparntky a cause of pads jamming :-(

Terry
18-10-2014, 08:24 AM
Great work you are doing there. :thumbsup:

Looks like it should last well with the detail work you are carrying out.

Pangea
18-10-2014, 09:36 AM
Looks really good that :-)

Couple of questions for you....

Your hard pipe looks a different shape to mine - is that how it ended up or did you bend it some more to get it to fit?

How easy do those bolts come out that secure the 2 halves of the caliper? When I originally asked companies about a refurb they refused on the grounds that they reckoned the bolts would snap so would do the calipers?!!!! I only ask as I have one more to do and I'd like to take the 2 halves apart so I can get the runner plates out and clean any corrosion underneath them - apparntky a cause of pads jamming :-(

Hi Jeff, I made the hard pipe off the shape of the old ones more or less. Some of the turns may be slightly less
tight but it all fits nicely. Add an inch or so to the required lenth and it gives you a bit more flexibility for fitting.
The caliper bolts were tight but not to the point of snapping. Use a good unworn allen key and a long bar. This
was a bit of a trial strip as I was expecting an issue may occur with the bolts and pipework but it was all good in the
end and came apart. I can see the reluctance of people not wanting to strip them though if they have had problems
in the past with this type of caliper. Not only Ferrari have this issue. I think the name may frighten them and the cost
of replacement if they get blamed for wrecking them. Fair shout.

Pangea
18-10-2014, 09:37 AM
Great work you are doing there. :thumbsup:

Looks like it should last well with the detail work you are carrying out.

Thanks Terry. I hope so.

Pangea
18-10-2014, 02:03 PM
Bonnet and boot catches before and after plating. You can see how the plating degrades when exposed in pic two.
Thats its job, being a sacrificial coating. Its catching it early enough so the corrosion does not eat into the original
steel. This generally results in pitting and can spoil the effect of the new look. I prepare some of the metal before
plating by polishing the worst surface marks out. This is done on a bench mounted machine. Plating alone won't hide
anything. The pic shows some prepped parts. Its worth the effort.

138050138051138052138072

Pangea
18-10-2014, 02:25 PM
Exhaust mountings refitted. As you can see its a single box system with the additional black mounting bar across
the chassis. This exhaust is listed as the later challenge option on the parts list. Part number 156072. I quite like the
sound of this system and its original Ferrari so will stick with it. Not to loud.

138074

Pangea
18-10-2014, 03:33 PM
Before fitting the lower arms get your shim packs ready to fit. Slightly different process going back on as I have
already fitted the new ball joints to the arms.

138075

Its a bit fiddly getting the shims into position while you engage the chassis but its not rocket science. Also shows
the anti roll bar connected and bolted in. You can connect the link after the shocker goes in if you like. Less tension
on the arm. You can see the shims either side of the ball joint.

138076

Sorry it a bit blurry but you can make out the top arm mounting points either side of the suspension turret.
Shiny nuts and bolts. These are a very tight fit and took some time to get the hole centres lined up. The bolts will not
go in if the bushes are slightly out with the mounting points. Plenty of suspension grease needed and a bit of patience.

138077

Next in with the strut. Quite a simple job. Again blurry but you get the idea.

138078

Then pop the hub onto the ball joint spindles and do up. Also, the track rod end can be connected.

138080

You could be all done here in about 20mins a side if it all went well. No need to rush though. Nice to stand back to
look at it and reflect. Maybe not if it was a Mondeo. :wink3:

Pangea
18-10-2014, 04:31 PM
A better view of the anti roll bar link and spindle bolt plus strut lower mount.

138094

Pangea
18-10-2014, 04:47 PM
Air conveyor view from front.

138113

Pangea
18-10-2014, 04:55 PM
Caliper loosely fitted to work out metal brake line shape.

138117

355OXO
18-10-2014, 05:08 PM
That's a lovely piece of work, all nice and shiny and brand-new looking so satisfying and l No, there is a lot of work to do that :thumbsup:

355OXO
18-10-2014, 05:10 PM
Out of interest, how much did you pay for the exhaust mounting brackets and fittings to be zinc plated, when I got a quote it was phenomenal.

Pangea
18-10-2014, 05:33 PM
That's a lovely piece of work, all nice and shiny and brand-new looking so satisfying and l No, there is a lot of work to do that :thumbsup:

I only meant fitting four pieces of finished suspension. Thats the easy bit. The rest takes some time.:thumbsup:

Pangea
18-10-2014, 06:33 PM
Out of interest, how much did you pay for the exhaust mounting brackets and fittings to be zinc plated, when I got a quote it was phenomenal.

I had a couple of batches done. I could have got away with one but then changed my mind about a few things and
had to do another. The people I used have a minimum charge of 55 a batch but will do a lot for that. There are a lot of small companies around who can do this for you cheaper than that but I need things done quickly sometimes
and it can be overnight service from them. There is generally a plater somewhere nearby to everyone and I would recommend using local so you can see some samples of work and talk about the job and details. Plus the risk of being
lost in the post is eliminated. To many of these small parts are not available anymore or expensive. I will say, a cheap
process can sometimes look cheap. Not what you want.

Mike01606
18-10-2014, 06:46 PM
Fabulous standard of work Nick......:thumbsup:

I learnt about the plating issues with my bike project and wished I'd prep'ed some of the parts before zinc plating as I ended up with some mixed results.
I guess that is why chroming is so expensive due to the level of preparation ahead of the plating process.

I will be doing a similar exercise over the winter on my 360 providing I can get enough space around the car to work on it.

Edit: re-pricing...I had a load of parts for my bike done for 70. Yellow was the same price as bright zinc. They charged about 5 a wire for the small parts which was about a metre long string.....

Pangea
18-10-2014, 07:49 PM
Thanks Mike. Its all about the condition of the base metal. If its scratched or pitted it will show. Even shot blasting
can roughen the surface excessively and ruin the shine. Not a factory look. Dull and unattractive. Polishing is the best
prep for me. Especially after blasting . Time consuming and a dirty job. Results are good though.
Not ideal for everything.

Pangea
20-10-2014, 05:12 PM
Ive not really had anything to do with this end of the car until now so have not given much thought to what this
large under tray is exactly. Its fairly obvious its good for scrapes and sleeping policemen and its been doing that job
well over the years. As you know or have seen I have the small bib spoiler fitted to the lower part of the bumper and
this tray seems to be designed to fit with this. It has been neatly made by whoever and has been given some
thought. Nice radiuses and cut outs. Is this just a scrape prevention device or an attempt to create some sort of aero
effect as with the spoiler ? Nothing listed on the parts diagrams I've seen. The spoiler is . Anyone throw any light on
this?. If one or more of you has the spoiler, is the tray there to?

138167

See how its shaped here at the end of the spoiler.

138168

Cut outs fit over the two raised chassis seams either side of boot floor.

138169

Pangea
20-10-2014, 05:37 PM
Front of wheel arch panels. Amazingly straight and rot free considering where they live. Very flimsy.

138170

A couple of finished panels. Powdercoated. New body seal and clip fitted.

irarref
20-10-2014, 10:04 PM
Just guessing but I reckon thats a DIY panel (albeit a very good one!). Perhaps someone damaged the originals and this was a cheaper option as they are very expensive to buy :-(

BTW I notice you have what appear to be challenge fog covers - are they the official ones or have you made them?

Pangea
20-10-2014, 10:59 PM
I believe this what you mean by originals? If so the tray fits over them to some degree. You can only get at one screw
with the bumper on. Probably about half way at a guess. These original trays were in pretty good shape and just
needed a minor resin repair. Not finished yet. Probably tomorrow. As for the lamp covers they came with the car
and look a little aged. Short of comparing them side by side with another original thats all I can say about them.
They were a Challenge kit option.

138172

irarref
20-10-2014, 11:10 PM
Yep it was. Curious thing though my passenger side one has a nascar style vent in - you can just about make it out in pic below

138173

CLIVE77
20-10-2014, 11:31 PM
Nick

Here's a pic of the underside of my undertray - pretty much the same as Jeffs'. It looks like yours was altered when the lip spoiler was fitted a very professional looking fitment though. Are you going to renovate yours as is or try to return it to original? Its very difficult for me to get a pic of mine as the car is lower than standard - looks like mines got to come off this winter for a bit of the remedials - its always getting scraped - just can't learn to slow down..........:grin:.:thumbsup:

Pangea
20-10-2014, 11:36 PM
Maybe this is the answer to your vent Jeff.

http://www.eurospares.co.uk/partTable.asp?M=1&Mo=450&A=1&B=25230&S=

Carlo348
20-10-2014, 11:46 PM
Now that is interesting. think jeffs going to dig a bit further. Seems to me though that ferrari had a habit of mixing the odd parts..maybe they were low on stock items? Ive recently found out mine has the twin plate clutch, car was registered in end jun92. That undertray Nick looks really well done.

Pangea
21-10-2014, 12:10 AM
Nick

Here's a pic of the underside of my undertray - pretty much the same as Jeffs'. It looks like yours was altered when the lip spoiler was fitted a very professional looking fitment though. Are you going to renovate yours as is or try to return it to original? Its very difficult for me to get a pic of mine as the car is lower than standard - looks like mines got to come off this winter for a bit of the remedials - its always getting scraped - just can't learn to slow down..........:grin:.:thumbsup:

Thanks Clive. I see how that works now. I will probably leave the tray on for the time being. I quite like period factory mods like the spoiler and lamp covers etc although the tray is probably not I agree, but it does a good job of
protecting the lip spoiler and covers underneath. :thumbsup:
I will be doing some paint sooner or later so I will decide then.

irarref
21-10-2014, 09:40 AM
I wish! LOL Reckon it would add 10k to my cars value LOL

Whats everyone else got on that side?

Pangea
23-10-2014, 06:35 PM
Ive decided to do some paint while the bumper is off so its going to be the bumper, bonnet, filler strip and headlight
pods. Ive started with the headlights first as the risk for something breaking here is high so if I need to order a
part it gives me a bit more time.
Behind each headlight assembly in the boot there are four fixings. 2 13mm and 2 14mm nuts and bolts. I removed
the windscreen washer bottle and the front fuse box first for access. Undo their retaining nuts and move them aside.

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When undone I was able to drop the nearside down and out as the bumper is not fitted. The off side I had to take out of the top as the air conveyor was fitted. When unplugging them one of the two pin plugs decided to snap off but it
was pretty corroded. Only a matter of time before failure so I'm glad I found it. One of the feeds to the motor. There
is also a small earth wire with a plastic sleeve. Unclip this and inside there is a simple connector to unplug.

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Watch for these shims behind the unit. They could be stuck to pod or the body and these will be for lining up the
body gaps I presume. Better not mix them up.

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Unit removed compete.

Pangea
23-10-2014, 07:19 PM
A rear view of the unit showing motor.

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Here is the control arm connected to the motor. To take this off you need to remove the C clips on either end. May
need a bit of persuading as a tight fit. The three bolts which hold the motor are behind it in the pic.

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Motor removed. Its all inside a rubber boot.

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All cleaned up nicely and original plating in good shape. It was all covered in a thin layer of grease thank god.

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Pangea
24-10-2014, 07:31 PM
A shot of the motor wiring plugs with the broken pin. Time for something better.

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Bezel and headlamp removed shows the three mounting points. Plastic this age can be brittle and easily snapped
so I was careful releasing them. All ok both sides.

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Mounting on headlamp and side view of clip/ adjuster. Gently pry the clip back and pull the headlamp to release.

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If you want to separate the headlamp pod from the mounting plate there are two 13mm hinge bolts.
these were very tight to get out.

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You can see the headlamp pod travel adjusters. Take note how they go back if you remove them. Measurements,
positions etc. In general all in good shape and no dreaded rot apart from the wire.

Pangea
24-10-2014, 11:25 PM
You can see the headlight on the right is very cloudy. The left one I have cleaned. This was a film which had built up
over the years and it was on the inside of the lens. Lucky to get this much access to clean it. I used some panel wipe
just on the glass then moped up the residue. pushed the cloth around with a pencil to clean up any smudges. Makes a big difference.

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Pangea
25-10-2014, 05:56 PM
Here it is back on its wheels for now with bodywork removed.

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Everything is nice and solid again. No hidden corrosion. You can see the six bonnet hinge mounting bolts. The filler
piece between the bumper and bonnet is held on with six easy to see 8mm bolts. All came out ok.

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All ok in here too. Just a bit dusty.

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Pangea
02-11-2014, 01:17 PM
Some pics of the body prep. Inside of the bonnet is in good original condition so I've carefully masked it off from overspray.

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Ready for the first coat of primer. All stone chips etc removed by careful machining. Nothing drastic. Edges feathered
in so its nice and flat.

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Bumper, headlamp pods and filler piece ready for primer. Again, just stone chips removed and edges feathered in.

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Everything primed and guide coated.

Pangea
02-11-2014, 01:25 PM
Rubbing down the bonnet with the block. This ensures perfect flatness and takes care of any remaining imperfections.
Ready for another light coat of primer and prep before painting. Just the rest of the bits to do before that though.

138406138405

Quigs
04-11-2014, 07:50 PM
Here are the two exhaust mountings. I forgot to do these last year. As I was getting more plating done I thought this was a good time to sort them out. Amazing how many bits involved. Only Ferrari could do that.Some before and after
shots. Simple enough to strip down. Very happy with the results. All the bits from one unit.:shocked:
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Hi - When you stripped these, did the bottom fork just unscrew as a nut normally would. Ive got them all stripped as far as that but I cant seem to release the fork from the bolt! Thanks

Pangea
04-11-2014, 09:46 PM
Hi - When you stripped these, did the bottom fork just unscrew as a nut normally would. Ive got them all stripped as far as that but I cant seem to release the fork from the bolt! Thanks

Hi Graham, Yes, it unscrews from the shaft. Have you undone the lock nut? If you have and its still tight its probably
seized a bit. May need a bit of heat if soaking in penetrating oil dosnt work. I had no problems here. All was ok.

Quigs
04-11-2014, 10:26 PM
Locking nut also wouldn't budge. Will give it a soak. Thanks :thumbsup:

Pangea
05-11-2014, 12:08 AM
Locking nut also wouldn't budge. Will give it a soak. Thanks :thumbsup:


Mine were locked off slightly down the thread so the nut still moved up it and unlocked from the fork. Have you tried
holding the fork in a vice and undo from the bolt head? It may just be very tight.

Quigs
05-11-2014, 08:59 AM
Tried that aswell...I think the locking nut is a the very top of the thread! Had it soaking overnight so will give it another go later.

What was the plating finish called?

Pangea
05-11-2014, 10:18 AM
The colour is yellow passivated.

Quigs
05-11-2014, 01:06 PM
All done, needed a bit of heat aswell but thanks again.

Pangea
05-11-2014, 02:59 PM
All done, needed a bit of heat aswell but thanks again.

No problem. Glad its worked out for you.

Pangea
07-11-2014, 07:52 PM
Ive had occasional speedo issues this summer. Sometimes the needle sort of flickered and other times it would go
zero for a short time then back to normal. Not every drive though. I ordered a new sensor about a month ago but
they are not available worldwide apparently. I decided to take a look at the wiring on and to the sensor thinking it
may just be that. It didn't take long to find something. You can see a problem where the wires meet the sensor.
In fact the yellow /black wire was only holding on by a tiny piece of the insulation which easily came away with a
slight tug. It was making contact most of the time but then separating under certain conditions I presume.
The other cable soon fell off after some handling although it did have a few strands of cable connected at least. As you can see in the photos you are not left with anything to solder back together on the sensor side. I had to file and break
away the hard resin type materiel around the wiring to get something. Not pretty but it sort of works. No real option.
I used the original plug and wiring and managed to get a nice fluid solder into the strands. I then enclosed it all in
a repair putty which dries very hard. Good support for the cables. I will be trying to find a new sensor but if one dosnt
show up in the near future this will be ok for the time being. Yet to be tested on the road but working in drive with the rear wheels lifted off the floor. Not a pretty job I know, but if you can't get a new one what do you do? Anyone know
different?


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lotusk
07-11-2014, 09:38 PM
Looks great to me.

Nicely done (very)

Carlo348
07-11-2014, 11:06 PM
Very well done...if you cant find the part. Try Ferrari chat and their interchange parts...might be an alternative out there.

milkshaker0007
08-11-2014, 12:47 PM
No need to buy another "new sensor" that's a good repair and will last years and years
Nice one:thumbsup:

Pangea
08-11-2014, 02:27 PM
Thanks guys. Lets hope it lasts a while. Just for interest sake I think this is what you would find inside the sensor.
Other things that could go wrong. This is from an Alfa Romeo but is essentially the same. Just different connections.
Possibly different resistors. I don't know.

138438

isuk
08-11-2014, 03:34 PM
Autoepoca show the sender on their website. It's around halfway down this page and listed as 116987 SPEEDOMETER SENDING UNIT, (MARELLI/VEGLIA # 680517)125.00 euro Code No: 939 They are not the easiest to get an answer from via email though to see if they actually have one in stock.

http://www.autoepoca.it/ferrariparts/cat-19/ignition-electrics/

Pangea
08-11-2014, 05:41 PM
Autoepoca show the sender on their website. It's around halfway down this page and listed as 116987 SPEEDOMETER SENDING UNIT, (MARELLI/VEGLIA # 680517)125.00 euro Code No: 939 They are not the easiest to get an answer from via email though to see if they actually have one in stock.

http://www.autoepoca.it/ferrariparts/cat-19/ignition-electrics/

Thanks Iain, I will try to contact them. All my normal suppliers, inc. Ferrari NA, mentioned the shortage when asked
and no one had a possible availability date hence my stab at repair. The world is a big place though. Lets see.:thumbsup:

Pangea
10-11-2014, 10:16 AM
Thanks Iain, I will try to contact them. All my normal suppliers, inc. Ferrari NA, mentioned the shortage when asked
and no one had a possible availability date hence my stab at repair. The world is a big place though. Lets see.:thumbsup:

Sadly, speedo sensor not available . Theres a surprise.

Pangea
12-11-2014, 06:48 PM
Some more bodywork shots. Everything in the last coat of primer. Bonnet had a couple of coats and blocking prior to this final fine one so nice and flat.
A bit more prepping then base coat.

138495138496138497138498138499

All in base coat at last.

Pangea
12-11-2014, 07:26 PM
One of the headlamp units, flatted with 1200 and then 2000 grade paper before polishing. Im happy with the result. Then some shots of the assembled
unit.

138502138503138504138505138506

irarref
12-11-2014, 07:53 PM
Looks great that Nick :-)

Will you be doing the rest of the car?

CLIVE77
12-11-2014, 08:53 PM
Nick

This is all looking really good. Are you using original spec paint - ie NO lacquer and has the paint gone through the oven to harden it up to resist chips??? Whose paint did you use to get a perfect match? My sprayer got a tin of Glasurit Rosso Corsa FER 300/12 and found it nothing like the right shade - gave up as it was just before the concours and ran out of time. Now thinking I'll give it another go. :thumbsup:

Keep up the good work.

Clive

Pangea
12-11-2014, 08:56 PM
Looks great that Nick :-)

Will you be doing the rest of the car?

Thats the idea Jeff. Im starting to think the timescale is probably going to be a bit shorter than planned now though. Cant leave it alone.:hmmm:

irarref
12-11-2014, 10:10 PM
Winter is the time to do it :-)

Pangea
14-11-2014, 05:51 PM
Hi Clive, This is base coat and lacquer from an italian company. Just a coincidence. Its water based base coat. Lacqued. Heat used. Its hard.
http://www.lechler.eu/en/Home/Company
Reds are quite difficult to match and we had to add some red tinter to the whole 5 litres I ordered to get very close. Ive always wanted to respray the car so I bought enough paint for that reason. At least it will then be the same colour throughout. Just in case thats not enough or theres a mishap I've
noted the weight of tinter used per 5 litres so matching will be easier if necessary. I do all the prep work but my friend John is the painter. Im not that
talented.

Pangea
14-11-2014, 07:01 PM
Bumper being carefully hand flatted before polishing.

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Few shots after polishing.

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Blacking out the grill.

Pangea
14-11-2014, 07:18 PM
Bumper built up ready to fit. Number plate bracket slightly wonky.:thumbsdow.

138551138552138553138554138555

isuk
15-11-2014, 10:45 AM
Nick,

Superformance say on their Facebook page that they have the speedo sensor back in stock for the 308. If it's part number 30818075 on this page they have back in stock then I think it could be the exact item you need as they list the same item on their 348 page.

http://www.superformance.co.uk/308/electrical.html

Pangea
15-11-2014, 04:59 PM
Nick,

Superformance say on their Facebook page that they have the speedo sensor back in stock for the 308. If it's part number 30818075 on this page they have back in stock then I think it could be the exact item you need as they list the same item on their 348 page.

http://www.superformance.co.uk/308/electrical.html

Hi Iain,
They say they have the 308 carb sensor which is a different part. Both listed on the page. 30818070 is carb version.
The GTB/Si cars use the same as the 348 looking at what they state on the listing.

Mike01606
15-11-2014, 05:17 PM
Nick,

From the pictures that paintwork is fabulous. It's like glass.....:thumbsup:

M

Terry
15-11-2014, 05:25 PM
Nick,

From the pictures that paintwork is fabulous. It's like glass.....:thumbsup:

M

+1, just what I was thinking.

Great work Nick. :thumbsup:

Quigs
15-11-2014, 05:30 PM
That looks superb. New front bumper on my agenda for next year as mine has a 355 fitted

Is the number plate bracket original or have you fabricated it?

isuk
15-11-2014, 05:51 PM
Hi Iain,
They say they have the 308 carb sensor which is a different part. Both listed on the page. 30818070 is carb version.
The GTB/Si cars use the same as the 348 looking at what they state on the listing.

Final roll of the dice :grin: Maranello Classic parts website says to substitute with part number 393650106 and they show limited stock of that. It may be worth asking them to email a photo of it.

Pangea
15-11-2014, 06:54 PM
Thanks guys. Im just a bit concerned about micro cracking in the bumper gell coat. I had to sort a couple of small
ones out in prep and there is always the potential for more to appear. If this becomes a problem I will replace the
bumper. I think like most its had a few groundings on the front edge which is very bad for the structure. I found no
obvious damage areas but the skid plate was rather scratched. Some quite deep. Time on the road will tell.
I forgot to mention the lamp covers. They were slightly hazy from age and felt a bit rough on the surface so they were
rubbed down with fine grades of paper and polished with a mop and a 3M compound. Came out great. More functional
than stylish. They do a good job though. Graham, i think the number plate holder is original. Came with the the car.
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isuk
15-11-2014, 08:10 PM
The front plate mount looks the same as the one for the 246. Superformance sell them in unpainted steel. They just need a coat of satin black to finish off to factory spec.

Pangea
15-11-2014, 08:42 PM
Final roll of the dice :grin: Maranello Classic parts website says to substitute with part number 393650106 and they show limited stock of that. It may be worth asking them to email a photo of it.


Ive been here 6 weeks ago. It said that then I'm sure. Limited stock can mean maybe,one day. Everyones got it
listed but you order it and its not available. I will keep asking though. I bet theres a box of ten brand new sensors
sat on a shelf getting dusty, somewhere in the world.

Pangea
15-11-2014, 08:46 PM
The front plate mount looks the same as the one for the 246. Superformance sell them in unpainted steel. They just need a coat of satin black to finish off to factory spec.

Yep. Thats it . Mine was unpainted but plated. Looks better in black. Plating was shabby anyway.

Pangea
16-11-2014, 09:53 AM
Headlamp pods and filler piece refitted.

138593138594

Pangea
16-11-2014, 09:59 AM
Bonnet polished and ready to build up. I will get some better shots of it in natural light tomorrow.

138595

Pangea
17-11-2014, 06:04 PM
Bonnet finished and ready to fit. Inside of the bumper blacked out. Looks so much better than overspray.:thumbsup:
Sorry for the inconsistency in the photos. Something not right with my phone I'm sure.
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ronrob
17-11-2014, 07:40 PM
Beautiful work Nick.

Carlo348
18-11-2014, 03:55 PM
The stunning finish of that paintwork leaves you no choice but to do the rest. Great work.

Pangea
18-11-2014, 05:09 PM
The stunning finish of that paintwork leaves you no choice but to do the rest. Great work.

Think you are right there Carl. Looks that way.:thumbsup:

Pangea
18-11-2014, 05:10 PM
Beautiful work Nick.

:thumbsup:

Quigs
18-11-2014, 06:51 PM
Here are some pics of the restored subframe. I was looking for a factory sort of finish so I went for a textured look. This works for me. 131660131659131658131661131662

Nick - What process did you use on this and what exactly was the finish? Did you do the same with your top suspension mount brackets (the ones that remain in the engine bay)?

Couple more questions :thumbsup:

Did you also replace all your hoses whilst out?

Where did you source the small clutch fluid pipe clips / clamps that screw to the subframe?

Quigs
18-11-2014, 07:25 PM
Sorry, not clutch fluid pipe, the wire things that connect to the cats!

Pangea
18-11-2014, 07:45 PM
Nick - What process did you use on this and what exactly was the finish? Did you do the same with your top suspension mount brackets (the ones that remain in the engine bay)?

Couple more questions :thumbsup:

Did you also replace all your hoses whilst out?

Where did you source the small clutch fluid pipe clips / clamps that screw to the subframe?

Its textured powder coat. The subframe was shot blasted and inspected for corrosion first. The engine bay parts are
textured paint. Different to subframe but a similar finish. I don't know the name of the maker as I was given a small
amount in an unmarked container. It was then sprayed with a gun. Its an automotive paint. Should be easy enough
to locate some. If I can get some more info I will let you know.

Hoses not replaced as they were done a few years ago . Looked and felt good.

Clips etc. Eurospares, Superformance.

N.

Quigs
18-11-2014, 07:51 PM
Thanks - Would appreciate the paint finish.

Ive got a few areas of corrosion on the frame which I need to address. Will try and find a company around here

Re clips - Didn't know if you sourced from a 'normal' car parts supplier. Add to the list then :thumbsup:

Pangea
19-11-2014, 05:41 PM
Taking shape at last. Trying to organise a smaller numberplate at the moment. I think they look better.

138628

Greg
20-11-2014, 03:22 AM
Looking fantastic, is the E36 yours?

Pangea
20-11-2014, 09:43 AM
E36 belongs to a friend. Its a track day car yet to be finished. I don't know if he will ever use it though as he seems to have lost interest in it recently. N.

Quigs
21-11-2014, 09:08 AM
Bumper being carefully hand flatted before polishing.

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Few shots after polishing.

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Blacking out the grill.

Nick - When you blacked out behind the grill, what finish did you use, shiny or matt?