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Terry
26-09-2014, 05:18 PM
As some will know, since selling my 355 berlinetta I have been looking for another project.

I contacted Gordon from his post last week after he suffered an unfortunate experience with a tree and I am happy to say he sold me his car which I brought home yesterday. A March 1997 car with just 20745 miles, full service history complete with all MOTs.

I intend hopefully to replace the rear quarters, back panel and back frame if possible as an assembly and return the car to it's former glory. The plan is to first remove the roof and all of the interior, remove the engine and frame, remove the engine from the frame and refit the frame to the car. I will also strip out the engine bay so the area is all clear and provide good access for the body work. I will then have a rolling chassis and good reference points for the replacement panel work.


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The car in its former glory with credit to Gordon for looking after the car.

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Many thanks to Gordon for a very smooth transaction with the purchase.

I will try and post progress of my story with the car. Tomorrow I will jack up the car along one side outside and give the underbody a good wash.

irarref
26-09-2014, 05:33 PM
Begrudged congratulations! LOL :-)

BTW I've got a rear outer light panel if your interested! (red and ready to fit)

Carlo348
26-09-2014, 05:34 PM
:thumbsup: good to see you couldnt resist another project.

Chris honeywell
26-09-2014, 06:20 PM
Great to see you have gone for this car as your project :) .
Thus will be a thread I will be checking regularly ..

lotusk
26-09-2014, 06:38 PM
Terry

The Berlinetta you sold..is this the one you renovated in 2012 as shown on this forum?

Good to see you start another project.

I always learn a lot from your adventures

Terry
26-09-2014, 07:02 PM
Begrudged congratulations! LOL :-)

BTW I've got a rear outer light panel if your interested! (red and ready to fit)

Hi Jeff, I heard you were interested in this car, I am glad I beat you to it. :laugh:

Terry
26-09-2014, 07:10 PM
:thumbsup: good to see you couldnt resist another project.


Great to see you have gone for this car as your project :) .
Thus will be a thread I will be checking regularly ..


Terry

The Berlinetta you sold..is this the one you renovated in 2012 as shown on this forum?

Good to see you start another project.

I always learn a lot from your adventures

Thanks gents. Will try and document what I can and hope that others can benefit from my ups and downs.

The berlinetta I had was something that I purchased in 2005 with several threads on here about the work I carried out until I sold it recently. It is good to start again with another 355 applying the experience I gained from the other, the challenge is exciting.

lotusk
26-09-2014, 07:24 PM
Thanks gents. Will try and document what I can and hope that others can benefit from my ups and downs.

The berlinetta I had was something that I purchased in 2005 with several threads on here about the work I carried out until I sold it recently. It is good to start again with another 355 applying the experience I gained from the other, the challenge is exciting.

Somebody got a wonderful car there...you did very fine work.

Arron
26-09-2014, 07:35 PM
I'm looking forward to watching your progress on this one

F355GTS
26-09-2014, 07:40 PM
Looking forward to it Terry, can I have first dibs on buying it when you are ready to sell :thumbsup:

Kyodo
26-09-2014, 08:39 PM
Great stuff Terry. I'm sure Gordon will love to see the car back on the road in the hands of someone that cares a great deal for it. Looking forward to any piccies...

GrahamS
26-09-2014, 09:01 PM
Looking forward to another epic restoration Terry :thumbsup:

Mike01606
26-09-2014, 09:43 PM
Looking forward to another epic restoration Terry :thumbsup:

+1.....Brilliant:thumbsup:

We need another major resto thread now my RD250's finished! :coat:

I mean Tim's LM is nearly there........

Terry
27-09-2014, 07:08 PM
Thanks gents for the kind comments and encouragement.

Terry
27-09-2014, 07:14 PM
Took advantage of the good weather today and had the car outside for removal of the underboby panels. My technique is to remove all the nuts that can be reached on one side then jack the car up to get to all the others. The plastic trays on the floor are to catch the panels before dropping on the ground and they allow the panels to be rolled out.

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All removed for cleaning

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A couple of repairs required.

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Terry
27-09-2014, 07:24 PM
The offside rear under wing area all seemed to be OK.

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Upon closer inspection it would seem that the wing buckled outwards around 20mm indicated by the gap between wing and whell arch trim and confirmed by the small dent in the centre of the quarter panel.

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Both the above explains the misalignment and gap of the wing to the engine lid. The engine lid seems to be in its original position although bent a little at either rear edge.

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Terry
27-09-2014, 07:29 PM
All seemed to be OK in the right hand suspension area. All the wheel arch liners are also fine.

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candellara
27-09-2014, 07:32 PM
Congrats Terry

Looking forward to this thread

Jason

Terry
27-09-2014, 07:40 PM
The nearside area is where the worst damage was done. On the offside the tree was small and broke off on impact, the nearside contacted a larger tree that did not move.

The rear frame can be seen crumpled but the engine frame does not seem to be damaged at all. When I get the engine out I will be able to confirm that but seems to be fine. The rear frame appears to have taken the load upon impact before reaching the engine frame.

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sweeni
27-09-2014, 08:29 PM
Fab - something to replace Travellers F40 thread. Nice one Terry, looking forward to this. :thumbsup:

GordonD
27-09-2014, 09:07 PM
Hi Terry

Great to see you have started the resurrection of my poor car! It is in good hands now, I really did not want my stupid accident to be the end. Still wish it never happened, really miss her!

I can't wait to see the results of your work. Started saving now so I can buy her back!!

I will be watching with great interest!

Cheers

Gordon

ronrob
27-09-2014, 10:49 PM
The Doctor has started work. Good on you Terry. I was convinced that you were going to go for a 360 or even a 430. If we know you (and we do) you will not stop at sorting out only the damage. Every nook
and cranny will get the treatment.
All the best,
Ron

Terry
28-09-2014, 05:46 PM
Hi Terry

Great to see you have started the resurrection of my poor car! It is in good hands now, I really did not want my stupid accident to be the end. Still wish it never happened, really miss her!

I can't wait to see the results of your work. Started saving now so I can buy her back!!

I will be watching with great interest!

Cheers

Gordon

Hi Gordon, it will definitely not be the end, give it a little time and it will be well again!


The Doctor has started work. Good on you Terry. I was convinced that you were going to go for a 360 or even a 430. If we know you (and we do) you will not stop at sorting out only the damage. Every nook
and cranny will get the treatment.
All the best,
Ron

Thanks Ron, I was ready for whatever came along. I saw a couple of other cars but getting another 355 made a lot of sense as I have quite a few extra compatible parts lying around.

I plan on stripping the interior first as I will be short of space in the garage when I remove the engine. All the spare corners in the house will be taken with interior parts, amazing how much space is required for removed parts. First job is removing the roof, a task for next weekend.

lotusk
28-09-2014, 06:03 PM
Terry

If you come across that drivers side door window glass rubber gasket that you thought you may have in a box somewhere do please let me know.

My 355 needs one bad.

Howard

Terry
28-09-2014, 06:14 PM
Terry

If you come across that drivers side door window glass rubber gasket that you thought you may have in a box somewhere do please let me know.

My 355 needs one bad.

Howard

Will do Howard. I did have a good look round a few weeks ago and did not find it. I know that I would not have thrown it away so will keep a look out for you.

lotusk
28-09-2014, 10:34 PM
Will do Howard. I did have a good look round a few weeks ago and did not find it. I know that I would not have thrown it away so will keep a look out for you.


Very kind

MalcH
29-09-2014, 08:16 AM
:thumbsup::)
It's why I re-subscribed if I'm honest. Looking forward to seeing you and Jane soon. May try to get Mr Capner and his missus to join us.

sim
29-09-2014, 10:11 AM
Looking forward to reading your progress.:thumbsup:

Terry
05-10-2014, 06:53 AM
Roof removal was the first task. It seemed to operate reasonably well but I had to motor the seats forward manually before the roof would stop beeping and open, will sort that out later.

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The main hinge point has three attaching bolts although only one is visible.

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The rear frame also has three bolts bolted into the top of the rear quarter recess. Only visible with a torch and mirror at this point.

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Terry
05-10-2014, 07:07 AM
With the hinge covers removed, not much more could be seen regarding the attachment bolts, at this point I thought there were only two. (proved wrong later)

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Centre trim removed (easiest part of the job), two screws.

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The left side of the car contains the hydraulic distribution block. You can just see the two actuators that move the roof, the larger lower on and the small upper underneath a small cover.

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The pipework feeds underneath the carpet to the pump mounted in the centre of the bulkhead, there are also two lines from the left to the right hand side.

Terry
05-10-2014, 07:21 AM
Two of the three mounting bolts for the rear frame can be seen. Access was a little awkward but took these three bolts out just on one side to see what it resulted in providing.

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Roof lowered, roof pump exposed. I'm thinking at this point, it will be off in a jiffy, also wrong abut that.

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I searched the web for some information about removing the roof but found nothing. I saw a few post where people had converted the roof to manual operation but that was all I found. That conversion whilst innovative did not interest me as I want it all to function as it should.

I spoke with Roy at ProSport and he gave me a good tip and that was to remove the roof with the pipes and pump all attached. That is, do not disconnect any of the hydraulics to avoid the difficulty with air and bleeding when you refit. That sounded like a good idea to me so made that the plan.

Terry
05-10-2014, 07:36 AM
The centre of the roof is attached to the bodywork by a series of studs. The nuts would have been easier to remove with the centre trim removed but the trim was hanging up at the ends so rather than force anything, I left fitted for now.

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I removed all the chrome studs where the tonneau cover attaches as they also hold down the hood.

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With the stud removed the hood is pulled back slightly and the rear corner will unhook from the lip on the wing.

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When I had the rear corner lifted I then saw that the lower edge slid into a groove in the wing, pulling the fabric down gave just enough to unhook the roof which then made those three awkward bolts very easy to access.

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Terry
05-10-2014, 07:48 AM
The door seal has a rivet where it attaches to the frame.

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A small screw attaches a spring which is attached to the fabric to add tension to the lower corner.

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The right side is similar.

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Terry
05-10-2014, 07:56 AM
With the rear centre fabric attachments removed, the outer fabric removed from the lip, the inner part of the roof is also unhooked in a similar way. Once the rear side of the inner lip is removed, it all slides forward before unhooking from the channel on the wing. Both LH and RH sides need to be moved together to avoid tensioning the roof fabric.

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Terry
05-10-2014, 08:00 AM
The rivet that held the seal in place also secures a tab from the roof to the wing. With the tab removed, the corner of the fabric is free.

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Terry
05-10-2014, 08:09 AM
The top main hinge point bolt removed.

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The bottom hinge bolt can just be seen.

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I was concerned about access to these bolts and where the roof needed to be positioned for access but I found sufficient movement in the roof by hand to gain access. A long wobble extension and socket did the job on both lower bolts (only one can be seen in picture).

Terry
05-10-2014, 08:12 AM
The hydraulic distribution block is attached with two allen key bolts on top of the block.

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Terry
05-10-2014, 08:26 AM
Now the focus was preparing the pump to be removed with lines still connected to the roof. You will notice that the seats are now removed and the centre tunnel to provide the required access.

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With the reservoir visible, it can be seen that the fluid is below minimum which would not help the roof operation.

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Disconnected all the electrics to leave just the pump. Control box removed.

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Relays removed.

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Terry
05-10-2014, 08:43 AM
The top of the bulkhead carpet peeled back reveals the hydraulic lines, clamps and electrical wiring. Three rivets require removal on the black metal plate adjacent to the roof to allow the carpet to be removed. The electrics have disconnect plugs at the top of the bulkhead.

The carpet can be pulled over the pump with the pump now free (except hydraulic lines) to be removed with the roof.

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All three hinge attachments bolts either side removed, three rear frame bolts either side removed, pipes unclipped, electrics unclipped and not tied around pipes, pump attachment removed.

Terry
05-10-2014, 08:59 AM
I managed to lift the roof off myself but it was heavy and also awkward with the pump attached. I only managed to lift it to the side of the car where it remains until I get some help. I will move it into the house and try to extend it to keep the shape and prevent any creasing of the fabric during storage.

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I would recommend removing the bulkhead carpet when the roof is detached from the bodywork to make things a little easier. With the roof loose and bolts removed, the carpet can be pulled out between the body and the hinge. When the time comes, I will get all the pipework and electrics refitted and connected before fitting the carpet followed by bolting the hinges and rear frame.

lotusk
05-10-2014, 03:12 PM
You sure have great conviction Terry.

Makes my throttle pedal renovation seem utterly pathetic!

Terry
05-10-2014, 03:49 PM
You sure have great conviction Terry.

Makes my throttle pedal renovation seem utterly pathetic!

Thanks Howard, I will be doing the same as you to my throttle pedal.

lotusk
05-10-2014, 04:04 PM
Thanks Howard, I will be doing the same as you to my throttle pedal.


Well watch the M6 nuts holding the bellcrank bracket on the chassis....

Can you answer this for me...

To prevent cross threading with a normal nut and bolt i always screw the nut on by hand until the top of the bolt shows thru the nut....then i know there's no cross threading and i can continue safely with a socket or spanner...but ..if the nut is a nyloc nut then it is not possible to thread it on the bolt by hand such that the bolt appears thru the nut as the nylon insert prevents this...so you have to use a socket ...this is what happened with my unfortunate scenario..resulting in stripping material from the bolt and the nut spinning without tightening the bracket down and not being allowed to unscrew off the bolt...

So how do you know when a nyloc nut is on a bolt perfectly straight if you can't thread it on with your fingers to be sure?

Terry
05-10-2014, 06:52 PM
Can you answer this for me...

So how do you know when a nyloc nut is on a bolt perfectly straight if you can't thread it on with your fingers to be sure?

I suppose anything can be cross threaded.

From these two pictures you will see that the locking part of a nyloc nut (blue in the picture) is on the end of the nut, the first part of the nut is just like any plain nut and it is only when the bolt passes through the nyloc portion that the locking effect is applied.

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Terry
05-10-2014, 07:10 PM
The handbrake surround is easy to remove provided a slot has been cut at the bottom of the mechanism. If it hasn't, the cable needs slackening off at the engine latch and fully withdrawn to release the cover. Doing this can cause a real problem when trying to refit the cable if the outer cable has moved or if the inner cable gets hung up somewhere. The outer cable snakes around the radiators and if it falls out of position, access is very difficult.

Mine was original, no slot, so it had to be done even though I withdrew all the inner cable as I intend to replace it.

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lotusk
05-10-2014, 09:29 PM
I suppose anything can be cross threaded.

From these two pictures you will see that the locking part of a nyloc nut (blue in the picture) is on the end of the nut, the first part of the nut is just like any plain nut and it is only when the bolt passes through the nyloc portion that the locking effect is applied.

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The thing is .....

I threaded my problem bellcrank bracket nut on by hand until it hit the nyloc portion...it threaded on just fine...but still as it journeyed down the bolt with a socket it mangled the thread...
What a pain.
Watch yours if you decide to remove the bracket.
I'm going to install that big central bolt retaining the bellcrank to the bracket with its nut underneath near the floor...not the other way round.
This way the actual bracket need never be removed to remove the bellcrank itself thus not disturbing those two nuts.

lotusk
05-10-2014, 09:33 PM
[QUOTE=Terry;775016]The handbrake surround is easy to remove provided a slot has been cut at the bottom of the mechanism. If it hasn't, the cable needs slackening off at the engine latch and fully withdrawn to release the cover. Doing this can cause a real problem when trying to refit the cable if the outer cable has moved or if the inner cable gets hung up somewhere. The outer cable snakes around the radiators and if it falls out of position, access is very difficult.

Mine was original, no slot, so it had to be done even though I withdrew all the inner cable as I intend to replace it.



Why replacing the inner cable?
Badly damaged somehow when she hit the tree?..... Ouch?

Terry
06-10-2014, 08:41 PM
Centre tunnel removal is pretty straightforward. Remove one screw at the bottom of the ashtray allows the tray to be removed together with the HVAC.

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One nut secures the rear inner tray.

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Terry
06-10-2014, 08:47 PM
Remove gear knob (slacken the locknut underneath first) and metal gate. A few years of dust and grime at the bottom of the selector.

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Not much slack on the cables to get your fingers in to pop off the connectors

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The tunnel is held in place by two screws at the front

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and two at the rear

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All out.

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Terry
06-10-2014, 09:01 PM
A little out of sequence but seats are very heavy in a spider due to motors underneath. Attachment is the same though, two bolts at the rear of the track and two at the front.

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A couple of electrical plugs to disconnect.

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Also a little different in the spider are the two metal spacer strips between the seat track and the floor frame. I expect this allows the seat to travel better over the carpet.

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Terry
06-10-2014, 09:06 PM
With the accelerator shroud removed, the accumulation of grime is apparent. I will remove the pedal and bellcrank for a good clean and lube.

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Carpets all out, they were well stuck down

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Next is the dashboard.

lotusk
06-10-2014, 09:14 PM
Great stuff

Did u see my bolt?

Kyodo
07-10-2014, 09:10 AM
Howard, it's just a bolt!! :grin:

Terry, are you removing the whole interior to begin a real nut & bolt restoration or are you just trying to get everything clear before beginning the repair work and ultimately paint etc... ?

Interesting stuff though, thanks for the pics.

irarref
07-10-2014, 09:14 AM
I was wondering that too....?! LOL

I would of been riding round in by now.....nothing a 5lb lump hammer and a block of wood couldn't of sorted out!!! ;-')

Then again my standards may be lower than terry's :-(

Terry
07-10-2014, 08:15 PM
Howard, it's just a bolt!! :grin:

Terry, are you removing the whole interior to begin a real nut & bolt restoration or are you just trying to get everything clear before beginning the repair work and ultimately paint etc... ?

Interesting stuff though, thanks for the pics.

I was primarily removing the interior to provide access and prevent any damage during the bodywork repair and painting. Whilst everything is out I will of course tidy it up a little. Rather than just painting the rear of the car, I will do the doors and front so will have to strip out the doors, locks and glass to do it properly. I just cannot resist the temptation to try and get things nice. I do not intend to restore the suspension though this time round.


I was wondering that too....?! LOL

I would of been riding round in by now.....nothing a 5lb lump hammer and a block of wood couldn't of sorted out!!! ;-')

Then again my standards may be lower than terry's :-(

My problem Jeff is that I am just too slow but I am enjoying the work

Mike01606
07-10-2014, 09:03 PM
My problem Jeff is that I am just too slow but I am enjoying the work

But remember "slow is smooth and smooth is fast!"

Anyone with a spider should bookmark this thread. Who needs a WSM!

Terry
10-10-2014, 08:13 PM
I decided to strip the door before removing the dashboard. Did not want to be without power just in case I needed to move the windows prior/during removal.

Remove the rear trim strip first - three screws

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One extra screw to remove with the rear trim strip off

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A few trim retaing screws to be removed from underneath

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Remove two screws from the front, slide forward and remove the lower trim

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Terry
10-10-2014, 08:18 PM
With the lower trim removed the door handle can be seen secured with two bolts at the lower attachment

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and one upper securing screw

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With the handle removed, one screw secures the door opening handle

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Handle and door opening handle removed

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Terry
10-10-2014, 08:22 PM
The forward cover is removed with two screws

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With the trim removed the window rubber falls off with it.

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Terry
10-10-2014, 08:30 PM
With the forward cover adjacent to the wing mirror removed and the door lock knob removed, a couple of trim poppers hold the door card in place. Release the popers with a good tug and lift up the trim remebering to disconnect the windows switches.

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The three door card poppers can be seen in this picture

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With the door card removed the next step is to remove the glass and frame

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Terry
10-10-2014, 08:48 PM
Before removing the glass frame, remove the door scoop to provide access to the window motor connection, Two screws secure the scoop around the door opening handle

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One mid way at the top of the scoop

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Underneath the bottom of the door are two attachments

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and two attachments at the front of the scoop with access from the door hinge

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When you remove the scoop look out for the spacers at the front attachment studs, there provide the alignment adjustment at the wing

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Also look out for the two spacer washers at the underneath attachment points

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Nosevi
10-10-2014, 08:59 PM
Great to see you've got another project, Terry. Will watch with interest :thumbsup:

Right, off to apply for next year's FOC concours now. Kind of betting on you not finishing by then so there's some point in the rest of us having a go.

Enjoy the challenge, Terry. The rest of us will enjoy watching another 355 returned to perfection in your hands :)

lotusk
10-10-2014, 09:16 PM
Interesting to see the differing door trim attachments between the spider and the gts/berlinetta.

Btw.....

Those self tapping screws that hold the door trim on the door are an awful fit over time.
On my gts there are 8 per door.. 7 little chrome beauties with chrome cup washers and 1 black one.
Most of mine were loose...the holes drilled in the door had widened...so...
I have just finished drilling out each hole with sharp cobalt drill bits and fitting a small nylon grommet nut.
Now all 16 screws attach tight..and will continue to do so and indeed hold the trim pieces in a proper fashion.
Should have left the factory like this.
Just drilling holes in the metal of the door and screwing in a screw is real poor.

Great photos Terry

Nosevi
10-10-2014, 09:23 PM
Btw.....

Those self tapping screws that hold the door trim on the door are an awful fit over time.
On my gts there are 8 per door.. 7 little chrome beauties with chrome cup washers and 1 black one.
Most of mine were loose...the holes drilled in the door had widened...so...
I have just finished drilling out each hole with sharp cobalt drill bits and fillting a small nylon grommet nut.
Now all 16 screws attach tight..and will continue to do so and indeed hold the trim pieces in a proper fashion.
Should have left the factory like this.


Literally just taken all the interior trim off my 348 door and was thinking the same. Sorry for my complete lack of knowledge but how does one 'fillt' and where did you get nylon grommet nuts? Sounds like a very good plan :thumbsup:

lotusk
10-10-2014, 09:40 PM
Nos...

I bought this set of nylon grommet nuts on ebay....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271276199706?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Only used the smallest ones... For size 6 screws...you can buy these on their own on ebay.

Have to drill out the holes in the door with sharp drill bits...i kept increasing the size one by one until the hole was big enough for the grommet nut to be just about pressed in with my thumb then banged home with a socket as a drift and a hammer..

A job worth doing..great feeling when screwing those screws in to really feel them bite and tug into place the trim.

Nosevi
10-10-2014, 09:56 PM
Thanks Howard, may have to look at doing that :thumbsup:

lotusk
10-10-2014, 10:11 PM
Thanks Howard, may have to look at doing that :thumbsup:


You'll know when you screw those tappers in and they just keep spinning without tightening down that it's a job that's gotta be done!

CLIVE77
11-10-2014, 02:50 PM
Great to see you've got yourself another challenge. I'll look forward to seeing you at a future FOC concours. Keep up the thread. It will be good to get another to take over from Traveller's F40 thread.

Clive

matkat
14-10-2014, 06:40 PM
terry, you really are a gluton for punishment might keep you away from BPL for a while LOL, good luck with this and as others say will be looking forward to the progress. Now on the market for another car myself having been Ferrariless for nearly 5 years.

Terry
15-10-2014, 07:30 PM
Thanks for the comments gents.

Clive - I look forward to seeing you at the next concours, not sure if the car will be ready in time and also not sure if I can get it competitive in time either.

Dave - Yes I have plenty to do now but getting pleasure from another project. Good luck with your hunt for another car.

Pete - Get your car ready for next year, it will be competitive provided you get those easy to remove bits back to standard first.

Nosevi
15-10-2014, 07:42 PM
Pete - Get your car ready for next year, it will be competitive provided you get those easy to remove bits back to standard first.

But *I* like those easy to remove bits....

Interior is already back to standard...... Except for the leather instead of vinyl and wool based carpet rather than polyester. Think they'll notice? Me too :)

matkat
15-10-2014, 07:46 PM
Thanks for the comments gents.

Clive - I look forward to seeing you at the next concours, not sure if the car will be ready in time and also not sure if I can get it competitive in time either.

Dave - Yes I have plenty to do now but getting pleasure from another project. Good luck with your hunt for another car.

Pete - Get your car ready for next year, it will be competitive provided you get those easy to remove bits back to standard first.
Terry thanks for that have pretty much narrowed down what I will get but not another 355 just fancy something else.

Terry
15-10-2014, 07:51 PM
Decided to strip the doors completely in preparation for door painting although the paint is not too bad. Only leaves the front wings and front lid so will have those painted at the same time.

Prior to removing the glass with frame, a few things to do. Glass motor connectors at the bottom of the door.

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The motor connectors cannot be crossed so no need to mark up.

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Whilst in the area, unclip internal door opening cable from door.

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Terry
15-10-2014, 07:59 PM
Before the glass and frame can be removed the interior door opening cable needs to be disconnected from the door lock.

The glass frame attachment bolts are removed and the frame pulled away to access the lock.

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The glass frame can be lifted out of the way resting on the floor to give decent access to the lock

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The operating cable is first unclipped then the cable pulled out through the slot in the lock.

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Terry
15-10-2014, 08:02 PM
Also one front electrical connector and the speaker wires to disconnect.

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Terry
15-10-2014, 08:11 PM
Now the wing mirror and surround to remove

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Just three nuts secure the mirror

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One electrical connector

137962

And its off

137961

Terry
15-10-2014, 08:16 PM
The wing mirror surround should just pull off with the mirror removed

137963

And the foam rubber underneath can be removed carefully to avoid tearing

137964

All off

137965

137966

With the mirror and seal removed, the paint deteriorating and the start of corrosion can be seen. I will have these powder coated before refitting

137967

lotusk
15-10-2014, 08:22 PM
Terry

You seem to have seperated the inner door panel from the outer door panel.

Is this easy to do?

Terry
15-10-2014, 08:27 PM
The weather strip is then easy to remove. The drivers side was held on with thin double faced tape whereas the passenger side was not stuck with anything, just clipped over the edge of the door

137968

137969

137970

137971

137972

With the weather seal off the door, some corrosion just starting from the edge. Would not have been too long for that to creep out under the rubber.

137973

Terry
15-10-2014, 08:30 PM
Terry

You seem to have seperated the inner door panel from the outer door panel.

Is this easy to do?

That's what I tried to show in the earlier pictures.

Attachment bolts, electrical connectors with the hardest thing being unhooking the interior door cable from the lock, perhaps a 20 minute job.

Terry
15-10-2014, 08:36 PM
The door lock barrel is held on with one clip that slides forward to release the barrel.

137974

The plastic connector between barrel and lock is a ball joint that "pops" off with a screwdriver.

137975

I will strip the barrel later for a clean and re grease.

137976

Terry
15-10-2014, 08:39 PM
The passenger side also stripped.

137977

lotusk
15-10-2014, 08:50 PM
Thanks

There's the impossible to find weather door glass seal.

Ugly stuff under there.

MalcH
17-10-2014, 09:43 AM
Terry looking good :). We should organise a hello. I'll see if Phil (PhilJay) is available too. Would like to see this before it's a carefully filed and labelled in pieces on the garage floor :tongue3::thumbsup:

Terry
17-10-2014, 05:33 PM
Terry looking good :). We should organise a hello. I'll see if Phil (PhilJay) is available too. Would like to see this before it's a carefully filed and labelled in pieces on the garage floor :tongue3::thumbsup:

Hi Malc, hello would be great any time. The engine removal is now in work so bits all over, getting short of space, will have to have a tidy up before rolling out the engine.

Terry
17-10-2014, 05:48 PM
Dashboard needed to come out to prevent any possible damage at the bodyshop and also for leather treatment. I have posted the dashboard removal in detail before so will not repeat the details.

http://www.clubscuderia.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?8952-348-355-Dash-Removal-Procedure

Remove the vents and centre instruments to access the upper fixings. There are lower attachment screws to remove too.

138021

The dashboard is much easier to remove with the small lower right hand section removed. With the dashboard loose and pulled back a few inches you can remove the nuts that secure the lower and upper pieces. One rivet needs to be drilled out

138022

Here the rivet removed

138023

Dashboard out and electrical connectors bagged to prevent dust etc into the plugs.

138024

Terry
17-10-2014, 08:52 PM
The door sills needed to come off for repair or replacement plus to provide access to remove the lower scoops for painting.

138027

Corrosion was evident when the door seal was removed

138028

I was able to remove them undamaged using a thick steel rule that required a firm push and at times hit with a hammer to penetrate the sealant holding down the sill.

138029

Removed in tact but I think I still need to replace them

138030

Terry
17-10-2014, 08:55 PM
The sill on the passenger side came off a little easier, must have been two different people doing this job at the factory

138031

138032

Not too much sealant holding this one down

138033

Terry
19-10-2014, 11:17 AM
Then it was time to remove the engine.

I will not cover the step by step account of the removal as it has been covered before. Attached below is from a post on FChat where user name RF128706 posted an excellent account of the process.

138137

I always found it a struggle to access the centre front of the engine and the water pipes and power steering connection. With a spider it is so much easier especially with no interior and the roof out of the way. It has made me decide that I will be reinstalling the engine before the interior when the bodywork is done.

138134

138135

138136

Terry
19-10-2014, 11:19 AM
Whilst I was disconnecting things around the engine bay, I removed the air pump etc. for refurbish.

138138

Terry
19-10-2014, 11:31 AM
With everything disconnected it was ready to lift the car away from the engine

138139

Lifting in progress with the two jack method

138140

Nearly there

138141

The car is now sufficiently high for the engine frame to just pass underneath the rear frame lower attachment point. It was a case of getting past the right hand upper mount first then moving the engine across to clear the left hand air box before pulling straight back

138143

Out

138142

Terry
19-10-2014, 11:34 AM
The jacks are rather high but seemed to cope alright.

138144

138145

355OXO
19-10-2014, 11:43 AM
Just like old times, you have got me infused again, Terry. Was it just the rear cradle or has it damage the engine cradle?

Terry
19-10-2014, 11:48 AM
Just like old times, you have got me infused again, Terry. Was it just the rear cradle or has it damage the engine cradle?

I was extremely pleased how the engine and cradle came out, no tension on anything. I removed all the bolts freely without them having any tension and without moving the jacks or trolley.

Visually everything on the engine frame looks fine and that together with such an ease of removal would IMHO suggest there was no damage to the frame.

BTW, well done on getting yourself going again and updating your progress. :thumbsup:

lotusk
19-10-2014, 12:11 PM
I was extremely pleased how the engine and cradle came out, no tension on anything. I removed all the bolts freely without them having any tension and without moving the jacks or trolley.

Visually everything on the engine frame looks fine and that together with such an ease of removal would IMHO suggest there was no damage to the frame.

BTW, well done on getting yourself going again and updating your progress. :thumbsup:



Great progress.
Good news on the non damaged engine frame indeed.

Terry
19-10-2014, 05:42 PM
Space is a little tight this side of the garage with the engine out.

138156

138157

One thing I did this time was to try and keep the engine at the level it was sitting in the car before removal. These two pieces at the front of the engine seemed to do the trick nicely as all the frame attachments bolts once loosened by a couple of turns came out by hand.

138158

Mike01606
19-10-2014, 07:40 PM
I can't believe the speed this is coming apart......:thumbsup:

How do you manage with light? I really struggle with getting enough light to see what I'm doing and if I use halogens I find I get too much glare :cry3:

Terry
19-10-2014, 09:34 PM
I can't believe the speed this is coming apart......:thumbsup:

How do you manage with light? I really struggle with getting enough light to see what I'm doing and if I use halogens I find I get too much glare :cry3:

The overhead fluorescents are not too bad aided by a couple of LED flashlights. I save the halogens for the cold weather. :wink3:

Terry
21-10-2014, 07:49 AM
With the engine removed, access to the radiators and connections are much easier

138175

138176

I removed all the water cross pipes at the same time

138177

138178

Terry
21-10-2014, 08:00 AM
With the radiator water pipes disconnected, just one mounting at the top and the water and oil radiators lift out together. On the base of the water radiator are two locating pins that fit into rubber mountings.

138179

The scoop is secured by removing the same upper rubber mount that secures the radiators plus two self tappers at the bottom.

138180

With the scoop removed, in this pictures are the two cables that operate the engine lid latch. As said in a previous post, if you remove the inner cable and the cables get hung up when refitting, it is a lot of work to get to these outer cables.

138181

Terry
21-10-2014, 08:10 AM
I found the left side radiator and aircon condenser easier to remove with the refuel pipe out of the way.

Their removal was he same after disconnecting the aircon pipe at the bulkhead connection.

138183

138184

138185

138186

lotusk
21-10-2014, 11:17 AM
Blimey...

Talk about speedy....

And you're doing this alone in a tight garage with trolley jacks?

Truly nutty!

CLIVE77
21-10-2014, 02:39 PM
lotusk
Blimey...

Talk about speedy....

And you're doing this alone in a tight garage with trolley jacks?

Truly nutty!

But out of the nuttiness will come forth a brilliant star to dazzle the concours judges for years to come.............:wink3::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumb sup::thumbsup:

matkat
22-10-2014, 11:13 AM
Terry, in reference to the door sills definitely change them and I also suggest you go for a carbon fibre set as the Ferrari one will just start to rust again really poor quality, think I go my CF one's from Paul Hill but not 100% sure.
Dave.
Have sourced my new car it's a manual 360 will post details once I have it in my garage.

Terry
22-10-2014, 07:57 PM
Blimey...

Talk about speedy....

And you're doing this alone in a tight garage with trolley jacks?

Truly nutty!

Yes alone and enough space in the garage but would like more storage space for all the removed parts.

Taking it apart has been fairly straight forward, only just the odd difficult nut, bolt or fitting to deal with.


But out of the nuttiness will come forth a brilliant star to dazzle the concours judges for years to come.............:wink3::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumb sup::thumbsup:

I don't think I will be able to help myself Clive and do some detail work whilst I am at it. How much detail though is so far undermined but you know how it goes.

Terry
22-10-2014, 08:03 PM
Terry, in reference to the door sills definitely change them and I also suggest you go for a carbon fibre set as the Ferrari one will just start to rust again really poor quality, think I go my CF one's from Paul Hill but not 100% sure.
Dave.
Have sourced my new car it's a manual 360 will post details once I have it in my garage.

I had some CF sills Dave on my last car. Yes they look good and will not suffer the same rust problems but I considered many times removing them and fitting standard sills, I just like the OEM look (without rust).

Look forward to seeing the pictures of your new car.

Terry
22-10-2014, 08:07 PM
With the door sills removed and the radiators out of the way, two nuts and about 10 self tappers to remove and the lower scoop slides off.

138192

Unfortunately one nut was rusted on the stud and the stud sheared off, will have to fit an new stud before painting.

138193

Terry
22-10-2014, 08:40 PM
The fuel tank removal is straight forward after draining the tank. There is a drain plug in the fuel pump housing from which most of the fuel can be removed.

I have covered tank removal in another thread so will not repeat the details here.

Drain plug in the centre (picture from previous car).

138194

The heat shield and tank have one combined fixing either side.

138195

Two brackets also support the tank underneath. I left all the vent hoses and refuel hoses connected at the tank end. I find those vent pipe fittings a real fiddle to remove.

138196

138197

With the car jacked up a little higher the bottom of the tank will slide rearwards during removal so the car does not need to be too high.

138198

The heat shield is easily removed after threading the hoses out of the way

138199

With the tank removed you can see how much space there is for the people to work who carry out an engine in cam belt change.

138200

138201

lotusk
22-10-2014, 09:14 PM
Why remove the tank Terry?

Pangea
22-10-2014, 10:14 PM
Labour of love.:thumbsup:

Terry
23-10-2014, 10:36 AM
Why remove the tank Terry?

Precautionary and also a good opportunity to check out the area and for a clean up.

Welding the new wing etc right next to the tank and especially the vent area made me take the cautious route. Only an hour to remove so thought it was worth it.

lotusk
23-10-2014, 11:00 AM
Precautionary and also a good opportunity to check out the area and for a clean up.

Welding the new wing etc right next to the tank and especially the vent area made me take the cautious route. Only an hour to remove so thought it was worth it.


Right

irarref
23-10-2014, 11:25 AM
Have you chosen who will be doing the bodywork yet?

Terry
23-10-2014, 12:17 PM
Have you chosen who will be doing the bodywork yet?

Yes, a chap who has done work for me in the past in Frodsham.

He has just retired but is going to do my car before he finishes.

Just waiting for the parts to arrive from Italy. I looked at some used parts but could not bring myself round to using used parts. New parts should arrive next week by which time I should have the car ready to go to the body shop and hopefully back before Christmas.

Terry
23-10-2014, 08:30 PM
Removed the front compartment carpets. Provides easy access to remove the bumper and headlights and a good opportunity to check everything normally hidden by the carpets.

138223

138224

The usual damaged areas to repair, these parts damage very easily if leaned upon.

138225

138226

138227

MalcH
24-10-2014, 10:17 AM
Yes, a chap who has done work for me in the past in Frodsham.

He has just retired but is going to do my car before he finishes.

Just waiting for the parts to arrive from Italy. I looked at some used parts but could not bring myself round to using used parts. New parts should arrive next week by which time I should have the car ready to go to the body shop and hopefully back before Christmas.
Wow.

Terry
25-10-2014, 10:58 AM
And then I needed to remove the engine from the frame. This job took most of the day with a few struggles to slow me down,

138270

Drive shaft bolts were not too bad and came out reasonably easily

138271

Gearbox and engine mount bolts to remove, they were tight.

138272

Lots of clips securing the wiring all around the engine

138273

We know which way round the factory assembles these joints so the fork needed removing to get the bolt out. The securing nut for the fork was a little difficult to access with the engine on the dolly.

138274

Removed the suspension in one piece as it needed refitting again when the frame was back in the car. I first tried to lift the frame from the engine with the suspension still attached but that was very very heavy.

Moved the frame back to the car ready to refit but this was enough for one day so refitting saved for another day.

138275

Terry
25-10-2014, 11:12 AM
The engine takes up less space now that it is separate.

138281

The suspension unit as removed from the frame for refit when the frame is back in the car

138276

I refitted the frame with the two jack method. I found it quite stable and manoeuvrable with two jacks to align the mounting holes.

138277

You may just be able to see the brake pipes with ends cut off. Even with a brake pipe spanner it would not come out of the brake hose, then mole grips still no joy but gave in with the hacksaw.

138278

Frame all bolted up ready for the suspension to be refitted.

138279

138280

candellara
25-10-2014, 07:10 PM
Not stripping & re-powder coating the frame Terry?

Terry
25-10-2014, 07:48 PM
Not stripping & re-powder coating the frame Terry?

Yes Jason but after the body work repair and painting is done. I will have quite a few things for powder coating.

Whilst on that subject, here is the area where corrosion seems to be prominent. I have scrapped off the loose paint and the metalwork is OK but left untreated would have been a problem in a few years.

138292

138293

Terry
26-10-2014, 07:27 PM
Refitted the suspension complete with callipers first time round. After fitting, the offside disc was jammed and would not turn

138305

Ended up removing the hub and laying it flat on the ground to shake the handbrake mechanism loose in order to get the disc off.

138306

In order to save a repeat of this I removed handbrake pads and left off the calipers. Not cleaning anything yet on the suspension until after the body work is completed.

138307

Back on the ground without callipers etc. The anti skid sensors also came out OK with some WD40.

138308

138309

Terry
26-10-2014, 07:33 PM
Removed the gear selector lever for a good clean and lube.

Just a case of removing the reverse light switch and four securing nuts from underneath and the mechanism is removed from under the car.

138310

138311

138312

imapadlock
26-10-2014, 07:38 PM
The rate of this resto/repair would put some pros to shame. Fair play to you thanks for taking the time to document so well.

Terry
26-10-2014, 07:41 PM
With the engine lid off the car I prepared it for repair and painting.

138313

Remove all the nuts securing the retaining frame then drill out around 20 rivets around the outer edge of the grill then the frame and grill come off.

138314

138315

You can then access the retaining clips for the Ferrari script logo which otherwise are under the grill.

Terry
26-10-2014, 07:49 PM
The rate of this resto/repair would put some pros to shame. Fair play to you thanks for taking the time to document so well.

Thanks for the comment.

I have found taking it apart not too much trouble and it of course helped a lot having done it before on my last 355. The last car took overall 8 years to do the different aspects but I hope this one will be a lot faster with better planning.

It will be all the detail work that slows me down after the car is back from the body shop but I hope to get it back on the road in time for next summer.

355OXO
26-10-2014, 08:19 PM
Moving along nicely Terry. A recent thread pointed me in the direction of Australia to fix my alarm problem, mailed them today looks around £600 ish will fix it.

Terry
26-10-2014, 08:59 PM
Moving along nicely Terry. A recent thread pointed me in the direction of Australia to fix my alarm problem, mailed them today looks around £600 ish will fix it.

Thanks Simon, good news on your alarm too.

BTW, got the door lock links sorted for you (will PM)

Terry
26-10-2014, 09:06 PM
Engine lid refitted in preparation for trip to body shop.

138316

138317

tonyh
27-10-2014, 09:05 AM
terry, I randomly have a full seat belt and fittings for a spider at home . is it any use to you ? obv I don't want any ££ for it

Terry
27-10-2014, 11:00 AM
terry, I randomly have a full seat belt and fittings for a spider at home . is it any use to you ? obv I don't want any ££ for it

Many thanks Tony. :thumbsup:

Although I have not had a close look at the belts yet, a spare would be great just in case. I will PM my address and of course pay for postage etc.

tonyh
27-10-2014, 11:05 AM
Many thanks Tony. :thumbsup:

Although I have not had a close look at the belts yet, a spare would be great just in case. I will PM my address and of course pay for postage etc.

:thumbsup:

MalcH
28-10-2014, 01:25 PM
The rate of this resto/repair would put some pros to shame. Fair play to you thanks for taking the time to document so well.
It is and Terry has a full time busy job too.

sim
28-10-2014, 06:18 PM
Reading this thread with wonderment. :)

Terry
29-10-2014, 06:39 PM
Just a few pictures left from last weekend.

Handbrake mechanism and cable removed. Will give the mechanism a good clean and lube and replace the front and rear cables.

138335

Simple cable attachment after unbolting the lever, just remove split pin.

138336

138337

The cable is then removed from under the car.

138338

138339

Terry
29-10-2014, 06:51 PM
The front bumper has a scuff on one corner to repair before painting.

138340

Bumper removed has been covered before and is straightforward so I think no need to repeat.

138341

138342

When I removed the bumper I was surprised to find that it is the lightweight kevlar type which is nice, makes handling easy.

138343

Terry
29-10-2014, 06:55 PM
First chance I have is tomorrow to collect the new body panels received on Monday from the factory, will post some pictures when I get them home.

Planning to get the car off to the body shop next Tuesday, just need to remove the headlight pods and cover up everything with plastic to keep the dust out.

Kyodo
30-10-2014, 10:27 AM
Great stuff :grin:

Terry
30-10-2014, 09:17 PM
Collected the main body panels today and a set of rear lights.

138350

138351

138352

138353

Terry
30-10-2014, 09:19 PM
New rear quarter

138354

138355

138356

Terry
30-10-2014, 09:24 PM
Looking at the top of the rear quarter I realised the hood retainer strips were missing. I assumed these would be part of the new panel so did not check.

Fortunately Eurospares have these in stock so have made the order.

Missing from the new panel

138357

They can be seen here on the old panel.

138358

Terry
30-10-2014, 09:30 PM
The rear frame I ordered was for an F1 car as the non F1 frame was unavailable.

138359

Just need to cut off these additional F1 equipment brackets then it will be the same as a manual frame.

138360

The good news is that a non F1 frame when available was £1500 but this F1 frame was £500 so it worked out well in the end.

lotusk
30-10-2014, 09:56 PM
The rear frame I ordered was for an F1 car as the non F1 frame was unavailable.

138359

Just need to cut off these additional F1 equipment brackets then it will be the same as a manual frame.

138360

The good news is that a non F1 frame when available was £1500 but this F1 frame was £500 so it worked out well in the end.


500 sounds almost reasonable for an F part.
Would not surprise me if it was 2500

milkshaker0007
30-10-2014, 10:13 PM
+1:thumbsup:

Terry
02-11-2014, 07:47 AM
Just a couple more items to remove in the front compartment.

I removed the fuse box to prevent any contamination and also for the opportunity to clean. It is held in place with two nuts on the inboard side and two dowels on the other side.

138379

Just a few connectors to remove and the stud that carries the power.

138380

The connectors bagged up to prevent dust etc contaminating the plugs and potential future electrical gremlins.

138381

Will take the fusebox into a comfortable place over the winter and remove each fuse and relay to clean the contacts

138382

Fusebox and washer bottle removed and now just need to remove the headlight pods. I also need to sort out the excess of cabling which is radio/CD related.

138383

Terry
02-11-2014, 08:14 AM
I wanted to remove the air scoop from the engine lid for easier and better painting of the area. There are three nuts that secure the top moulding which cannot be accessed without removing the air conveyor on the lower side of the lid. One nut can just be seen in this picture

138388

This is the lower air conveyor that is attached with black large head pop rivets

138384

Just drill of the heads leaving the tails to be drilled out later to avoid any drill drift and elongated holes.

138385

All rivet heads removed

138386

Air conveyor off

138387

Terry
02-11-2014, 08:35 AM
The three nuts holding the scoop moulding to remove

138389

The moulding will then lift off the lid.

138390

The grill will also then just lift off.

138391

Nice easy lines in the scoop area now for painting

138392

Lower air conveyor off and in the process of removing the rivet tails.

138393

Done

138394

lotusk
02-11-2014, 10:28 PM
The three nuts holding the scoop moulding to remove

138389

The moulding will then lift off the lid.

138390

The grill will also then just lift off.

138391

Nice easy lines in the scoop area now for painting

138392

Lower air conveyor off and in the process of removing the rivet tails.

138393

Done

138394


Terry

Can you detail how you removed the rivets without elongating the existing holes?

Terry
02-11-2014, 11:23 PM
Terry

Can you detail how you removed the rivets without elongating the existing holes?

Use a drill the same diameter as the shaft of the rivet. Drill the centre of the rivet just deep enough for the head to break off then a little more for the thickness of the attached item. Remove whatever is attached by the rivet and you will be left with some expanded shaft into whatever it is attached. Drill the remainder of the rivet shaft until flush with the surface. Get a punch smaller than the diameter of the rivet and knock out the remainder of the rivet with a hammer and the tail drops into the back of the panel.

This allows you to control the drill and prevent it moving off centre. An elongated hole can occur if you drill into whatever the part is attached rather than knocking out the tail with a punch and hammer.

275gtb
02-11-2014, 11:43 PM
Use a drill the same diameter as the shaft of the rivet. Drill the centre of the rivet just deep enough for the head to break off then a little more for the thickness of the attached item. Remove whatever is attached by the rivet and you will be left with some expanded shaft into whatever it is attached. Drill the remainder of the rivet shaft until flush with the surface. Get a punch smaller than the diameter of the rivet and knock out the remainder of the rivet with a hammer and the tail drops into the back of the panel.

This allows you to control the drill and prevent it moving off centre. An elongated hole can occur if you drill into whatever the part is attached rather than knocking out the tail with a punch and hammer.

Hi Terry, great job on the car!

Just curious how do you then get the tail thats knocked into the back of the panel out? I am no where near my car at the moment so can't check, but isn't that panel where the tail goes a sealed area with no access holes to retrieve the drilled out waste?

cheers
Mark

lotusk
03-11-2014, 12:18 PM
Use a drill the same diameter as the shaft of the rivet. Drill the centre of the rivet just deep enough for the head to break off then a little more for the thickness of the attached item. Remove whatever is attached by the rivet and you will be left with some expanded shaft into whatever it is attached. Drill the remainder of the rivet shaft until flush with the surface. Get a punch smaller than the diameter of the rivet and knock out the remainder of the rivet with a hammer and the tail drops into the back of the panel.

This allows you to control the drill and prevent it moving off centre. An elongated hole can occur if you drill into whatever the part is attached rather than knocking out the tail with a punch and hammer.


This is why you are so great at this
Great tip.

irarref
03-11-2014, 12:30 PM
You can usually judge the size of bit required tends to fit snugly (but not go down the centre hole of the rivet). As Terry's mentioned when you drill the head of the rivet will break away from the shaft

138414

Terry
03-11-2014, 08:26 PM
Hi Terry, great job on the car!

Just curious how do you then get the tail thats knocked into the back of the panel out? I am no where near my car at the moment so can't check, but isn't that panel where the tail goes a sealed area with no access holes to retrieve the drilled out waste?

cheers
Mark

Yes Mark, pretty much a sealed area. I did remove the rubber bungs that are in these two holes and with some shaking around, some tails came out (I think) but most are still inside. May do some more shaking at the body shop with something sticky in the holes to catch the tails as they fly past.

138416

138417



This is why you are so great at this
Great tip.

Thanks Howard.

lotusk
03-11-2014, 08:31 PM
Is it easy to find black rivets of the right size?

lotusk
03-11-2014, 08:33 PM
Is it easy to find black rivets of the right size?


No need to answer
OEM at 8 pence each...available.

lotusk
03-11-2014, 08:34 PM
[QUOTE=Terry;776307]Yes Mark, pretty much a sealed area. I did remove the rubber bungs that are in these two holes and with some shaking around, some tails came out (I think) but most are still inside. May do some more shaking at the body shop with something sticky in the holes to catch the tails as they fly by.


Long extension stick magnet?

Terry
03-11-2014, 08:38 PM
The tow hook was extremely difficult to screw into the fixing. It was only able to penetrate a couple of threads due to corrosion inside the hole which was not good.

138418

I purchased a good quality set of three taps (M16 x 2.0), I did not want a poor quality tap breaking off inside the hole. I started with the taper to make sure I followed the original thread, then the second and plug.

138419

I did not go to the bottom of the hole so as to leave some tight threads at the lower part of the hole to prevent any tendency of the tow hook to work in the hole. This was the amount of thread that is now engaged in the hole.

138420

Looks better now.

138421

Terry
03-11-2014, 08:39 PM
[QUOTE=Terry;776307]Yes Mark, pretty much a sealed area. I did remove the rubber bungs that are in these two holes and with some shaking around, some tails came out (I think) but most are still inside. May do some more shaking at the body shop with something sticky in the holes to catch the tails as they fly by.


Long extension stick magnet?

The rivets are aluminium.

GordonD
03-11-2014, 09:28 PM
Hi Terry

Thank you for the great day yesterday looking over my poor old car! I was amazed at the amount of work you have done in such a short time and in the confines of your garage, by yourself!

I cannot wait to see the rebuild, I am so pleased I did not "kill" my car after all, in fact it is going to be in far better shape than it ever was!

lotusk
03-11-2014, 10:55 PM
[QUOTE=lotusk;776310]

The rivets are aluminium.

Right
Just testing

Terry
04-11-2014, 06:18 PM
Hi Terry

Thank you for the great day yesterday looking over my poor old car! I was amazed at the amount of work you have done in such a short time and in the confines of your garage, by yourself!

I cannot wait to see the rebuild, I am so pleased I did not "kill" my car after all, in fact it is going to be in far better shape than it ever was!

Hi Gordon

Good to see you at the weekend and with your beautiful Gallado Spyder, made me look through the classifieds.

Your former car will be back to its past glory soon, thanks for looking after it.

Terry
04-11-2014, 06:33 PM
Thought I would also remove the alarm siren and the air horns before going to the body shop.

138422

Interestingly when I removed the siren I found a puddle of water sitting in the top of the connector. Quite a bit of water as seen by the puddle at the bottom of the picture below. I understood the alarm occasionally displayed a siren fault (red light on over the air vent) which normally indicates a bad/flat siren internal battery but maybe the water caused the problem

138423

ronrob
04-11-2014, 11:40 PM
So great to follow your work Terry. No surprise there. Excuse me if the answer is in a previous post - when you talk about the bodywork, painting etc to be carried out by the guy who is staving off his
retirement to do yours, are you having the entire car painted? Knowing you it will be yes..............Then there will be the corrosion protection, better than the factory. We can look forward to months of this.
Mind you, makes me feel more than a bit negligent with mine. Bet you had a good look at that petrol tank! I'm with you keeping everything OEM. I'll Keep Calm and Carry On (watching). All the very best. Ron

Terry
07-11-2014, 05:59 PM
So great to follow your work Terry. No surprise there. Excuse me if the answer is in a previous post - when you talk about the bodywork, painting etc to be carried out by the guy who is staving off his
retirement to do yours, are you having the entire car painted? Knowing you it will be yes..............Then there will be the corrosion protection, better than the factory. We can look forward to months of this.
Mind you, makes me feel more than a bit negligent with mine. Bet you had a good look at that petrol tank! I'm with you keeping everything OEM. I'll Keep Calm and Carry On (watching). All the very best. Ron

Hi Ron

Good to hear from you.

Yes you guessed correctly, the entire car will be painted. I had considered just doing the rear of the car but thought I would get it all done at the same time.

The car went off to the body shop yesterday so I now have some space in the garage to sort out all the removed items. If the rain stays off on Sunday I will give the engine a good clean.

138430

138431

Terry
09-11-2014, 08:12 PM
Spent some time yesterday and today cleaning mainly the engine. Some before pictures.

138450

138451

I used Gunk initially to get the worst off followed by Alu Bright (obtainable from Morethanpolish). The Alu Bright will remove the yellow passivation from any fittings or brackets so try to avoid these. I then used gunk again followed by a pressure washer on the metal work. I did a little work on the more stubborn stains with a wire brush, rotary wire brush and scotchbrite.

A leaf blower was then used to dry out most of the water followed by a liberal application of WD40 to prevent tarnishing.

The left hand exhaust header also suffered in the rear impact so I will be removing that and replacing or getting rebuilt at JP Exhausts in Macclesfield.

138452

138453

138454

Still more cleaning to do this time just with the rotary wire brush and WD40 but a lot cleaner than before and easier now to work on.

355OXO
10-11-2014, 10:13 AM
Terry,

I do like to see someone has undertaken a lot of hard dirty work, it's always pleasing when it starts to look like new. I have not forgotten the sill, I have just been very busy decorating, I will hunt it down and send to you.

Terry
11-11-2014, 08:29 PM
Terry,

I do like to see someone has undertaken a lot of hard dirty work, it's always pleasing when it starts to look like new. I have not forgotten the sill, I have just been very busy decorating, I will hunt it down and send to you.

Thanks Simon. :thumbsup:

Terry
11-11-2014, 08:39 PM
Some progress pictures on the panels replacement.

All a bit messy at the moment but coming along, nice to see the old panels off. No need for much commentary at this stage as I think the pictures tell the story so far.

All the joints will be as per the factory, do not intend to make any additional cuts or joints other than at factory locations with the same weld pattern replicated.

138469

138470

138471

138472

138473

138474

138475

138476

138477

138478

lotusk
11-11-2014, 09:57 PM
I'm surprised that the suspension can be mounted such that the rear wheels support the vehicle without the motor frame.....or is the frame in there somewhere?

Terry
11-11-2014, 10:09 PM
I'm surprised that the suspension can be mounted such that the rear wheels support the vehicle without the motor frame.....or is the frame in there somewhere?

Yes the engine frame is fitted and carries the suspension, just the engine is missing.

Here is a picture of the frame in the car with the engine missing before refitting the suspension.

138482

lotusk
11-11-2014, 10:57 PM
Yes the engine frame is fitted and carries the suspension, just the engine is missing.

Here is a picture of the frame in the car with the engine missing before refitting the suspension.

138482


Thanks
Great view
Clearer now

Complicated

355OXO
12-11-2014, 01:41 PM
Terry,

Shows what a big difference a bit of experience makes, this project seems to be moving at warp speed, I trust you will drive this one and not to show it?

Terry
12-11-2014, 07:52 PM
Terry,

Shows what a big difference a bit of experience makes, this project seems to be moving at warp speed, I trust you will drive this one and not to show it?

Hi Simon, getting the parts prepared for refit and taking the time for reassemble plus investing time in the detail will slow things down no doubt.

I do hope to drive the car on sunny summer days and even perhaps attend an event but that is a way off and hard to see at the moment

Terry
12-11-2014, 08:06 PM
Looked more like a car again today.

The wing is only attached with one pop rivet with the rear panel slipped into place against the new rear frame. After pulling back into position the right hand quarter everything sits in a non tensioned position ready for some more fettling to get everything aligned and good panel gaps. The rear lid has been pulled back into shape and should be fine without a need for replacement.

The door fit was perfect as the rear wing fits back into its production joints. The old wing was removed at the production joints so the new wing sits in the same position.

A fair bit of time will now be consumed getting all the gaps and alignment before securing anything in its final position.

138507

138508

138509

138510

138511

138512

138513

lotusk
12-11-2014, 08:19 PM
Bit of a messy workshop there Terry!

Seems like the new OEM panels are well executed and an excellent fit.

355OXO
12-11-2014, 08:33 PM
I know that feeling to well.............


Hi Simon, getting the parts prepared for refit and taking the time for reassemble plus investing time in the detail will slow things down no doubt.

I do hope to drive the car on sunny summer days and even perhaps attend an event but that is a way off and hard to see at the moment

ronrob
12-11-2014, 10:55 PM
It must be a major advantage that you are welcome in the workshop there. Good news that the engine lid has come back into shape - major saving there. I have invented an acronym for the attention to detail which we know
to be Terry's hallmark. From now on, it's going to be referred to as the TTT or 3T - the Terry Total Treatment. None do it better. All cars will aspire to falling under the hands of Terry.

lotusk
12-11-2014, 11:27 PM
It must be a major advantage that you are welcome in the workshop there. Good news that the engine lid has come back into shape - major saving there. I have invented an acronym for the attention to detail which we know
to be Terry's hallmark. From now on, it's going to be referred to as the TTT or 3T - the Terry Total Treatment. None do it better. All cars will aspire to falling under the hands of Terry.


TTT
Nice one

ronrob
13-11-2014, 11:38 AM
TTT
Nice one

Yes, it can be the Total Terry Treatment, Terry Total Treatment et mÍme, Traitement ŗ la Totale Terry, or any Spanish equivalent!

Terry
15-11-2014, 12:12 PM
Yes, it can be the Total Terry Treatment, Terry Total Treatment et mÍme, Traitement ŗ la Totale Terry, or any Spanish equivalent!

Hi Ron, thanks for those creative words. :laugh:

Terry
15-11-2014, 12:33 PM
Took the first batch of parts to Redditch Shot Blasters. Here are a few items before being prepared.

Front compartment trim pieces

138569

Oil tank before removal of heat shield and pipe fittings

138564

Water tank before removal of decal and rubber mounts

138563

Air pump before stripping down to just the large bracket, valve bracket and air reservoir

138565

Pipes and number plate bracket

138567

Water pipes and air filter housings plus the engine side covers

138568

Not forgetting the cam covers and plug covers

138566

Thirty two items but enough for the first batch. I have some interior/door items together with the engine frame to take to them when I get the car back from the body shop.

Terry
15-11-2014, 09:09 PM
The air ducts that direct air from the inlet scoop to the air filters were a little shabby looking

138585

138586

Gave them a thinnish coat of this bumper paint

138584

Looked a lot better afterwards

138587

138588

Terry
15-11-2014, 09:17 PM
The water radiators had been replaced recently but still decided to split them for a clean and paint.

138589

The air inlets were in good shape other than cleaning. I used AutoGlym Bumper Care on the inside to give a clean slick finish with a light coat of matt black on the outside.

138590

138591

Terry
16-11-2014, 08:01 PM
I have removed both exhaust headers. The left hand side had clearly been stressed and displaced with creasing of the heat shield ending up close to the head.

138598

138599

After removal it was clear to see the damage especially at number 5 cylinder

138600

To a lesser degree there was also damage at number 6 and 8 cylinder positions.

138601

Had a little clean up (more required) and the area below the header appears fine.

138602

Terry
16-11-2014, 08:14 PM
The right side on the other hand looked fine.

138603

138604

I expect that these headers had never been removed since new. Some of the studs came out due to the corrosion on the nuts. I will replace the studs at least on the left side as they will have been stressed. 20k miles on the headers so perhaps time for a rebuild anyway..

138605

A little preliminary cleaning again and the area bellow all looked fine.

138606

I plan on replacing the left hand header. I know a rebuild at JP Exhaust in Macclesfield will sort it out but I do not like the appearance of the heat shield. I just have a thing about wanting the OEM look and need the heat shields to look good. Does anyone have a left hand header that they would like to sell to me? Internal condition not of concern as I will have it rebuilt. I will take the right hand header to JP for a rebuild with the thicker walled tube.

138607

Terry
20-11-2014, 09:27 PM
Collected a perfect condition rear light panel from Nick http://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/astoneferrariuk

I have dealt with Nick for a number of years and I find him very reliable and helpful and he is recommend by me. He can be reached on 07768 975059

I will take this panel to the body shop tomorrow.

138636

Terry
20-11-2014, 09:33 PM
I also collected a standard exhaust off eBay which fortunately included the heatshield, so one repair less to do.

Very pleased with the exhaust as it looks new with no signs of use.

138637

138638

J70
21-11-2014, 08:53 AM
Cracking work , Terry!

Pangea
21-11-2014, 02:27 PM
I also collected a standard exhaust off eBay which fortunately included the heatshield, so one repair less to do.

Very pleased with the exhaust as it looks new with no signs of use.

138637

138638

Terry, Would you say that finish on the exhaust was electro plating or something other than that.?
Nick.

Leightonv8
21-11-2014, 04:40 PM
I am loving this thread .. well done :thumbsup:

Keep up the good work and best of luck ; i look forward to your future posts

Terry
22-11-2014, 09:25 AM
Cracking work , Terry!


I am loving this thread .. well done :thumbsup:

Keep up the good work and best of luck ; i look forward to your future posts

Thanks for the comments gents.


Terry, Would you say that finish on the exhaust was electro plating or something other than that.?
Nick.

Nick I believe the exhausts when new starts off with the appearance of fresh stainless steel which changes to a golden appearance with a few heat cycles. The picture below is of a brand new exhaust which I fitted to my previous car with part number label still attached.

138658

I used Welders pickling paste to clean up the headers from my last car, before and after pictures below. A few heats cycles later and they were a light golden colour.

138659

138660

Terry
22-11-2014, 09:38 AM
All the welding of panels is now complete.

The alignment of the panels and engine lid seems fine but a little fettling required now everything is secure. The joints, lid rear corners and rear of right hand quarter panel have been lead loaded for a more durable and accurate finish.

Next week the plan is for a little more fettling to get a good fit on the rear light panel then all the body will be checked, some odd spots treated for surface corrosion then everything rubbed down in preparation for primer.

It will go into the oven for all the painting to be done.

138661

138662

138663

138664

138665

355OXO
22-11-2014, 11:53 AM
Great progress.:thumbsup:

Terry
22-11-2014, 12:01 PM
A new bumper from Maranello Parts (only this one was in stock but they tell me more available at the factory in case anyone needs one) for the same price as some people ask for used (£700 + VAT). It is also the better quality version rather than the plain weave fibreglass.

138671

138672

138673

Terry
22-11-2014, 12:08 PM
Great progress.:thumbsup:

Thanks Simon.

The plan is to finish the painting on the car as is, bring it home then take all the loose parts for preparation and painting - bumpers, headlight pods, lower scoops, door scoops and front lid scoop. Enough paint will be mixed at the beginning of the job for all the parts but the oven space will be taken up with the loose parts so this seems like a good plan. It will also give me a gap to remove the engine frame from the car, strip off the suspension etc and get it over to Redditch for powder coating.

Pangea
22-11-2014, 02:29 PM
Thanks for the exhaust info Terry. Project looking good.:thumbsup: N.

Mike01606
22-11-2014, 03:55 PM
I used Welders pickling paste to clean up the headers from my last car, before and after pictures below

Terry, that's a very good tip. I want to clean mine also and the usual polishes won't really touch the brown oxidation.

Did you use pickling paste or a surface cleaner? Some of the pastes can contain HF acid which is not for amateur use.....

Car will be ready for Christmas!

M

Terry
22-11-2014, 07:34 PM
Thanks for the exhaust info Terry. Project looking good.:thumbsup: N.

:thumbsup:


Terry, that's a very good tip. I want to clean mine also and the usual polishes won't really touch the brown oxidation.

Did you use pickling paste or a surface cleaner? Some of the pastes can contain HF acid which is not for amateur use.....

Car will be ready for Christmas!

M

I used pickling paste and just bought some more from here:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111280382078?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

And like you say Mike it is a severe product that has a strong vapour and is very bad for your skin. Also a word of caution, do not use it on anything still fitted to the car. Use it in the open air and rinse with plenty of water. It will turn other metal in proximity other than stainless to a rusty mess.

lotusk
22-11-2014, 10:18 PM
A new bumper from Maranello Parts (only this one was in stock but they tell me more available at the factory in case anyone needs one) for the same price as some people ask for used (£700 + VAT). It is also the better quality version rather than the plain weave fibreglass.

138671

138672

138673

I'd love to see how the rear diffusers and the rear heatshield attach to the bumper.
I have the original 1995 bumper with brackets crudely fibreglassed into the bumper to support the diffusers and shield.
Yours seems to have a very different system

Terry
23-11-2014, 04:49 PM
I'd love to see how the rear diffusers and the rear heatshield attach to the bumper.
I have the original 1995 bumper with brackets crudely fibreglassed into the bumper to support the diffusers and shield.
Yours seems to have a very different system

Here is a picture from my previous car. L shaped brackets attach with self tappers into the bottom of the bumper either side of the exhaust exits onto which the air diverters attach with 6mm bolts.

138684

Here you can see the provisions for the L shaped brackets on my new bumper plus the stud to which the heatshield is attached. I cannot show you the brackets on the new bumper as they were missing and Maranello has them on order.

138685

138686

markst
23-11-2014, 09:58 PM
great attention to detail ! :thumbsup:........its clearly going to be a stunner:thumbsup:

lotusk
23-11-2014, 11:25 PM
Here is a picture from my previous car. L shaped brackets attach with self tappers into the bottom of the bumper either side of the exhaust exits onto which the air diverters attach with 6mm bolts.

138684

Here you can see the provisions for the L shaped brackets on my new bumper plus the stud to which the heatshield is attached. I cannot show you the brackets on the new bumper as they were missing and Maranello has them on order.

138685

138686

Thanku Terry
Much cleaner arrangement than my earlier bumper where the brackets are fibreglassed into the bumper.
Cannot see though on any parts website nor my parts book the part numbers for those 4 L shaped brackets and their selftappers....do you know why they are not listed as seperate parts?

Terry
25-11-2014, 10:06 PM
Thanku Terry
Much cleaner arrangement than my earlier bumper where the brackets are fibreglassed into the bumper.
Cannot see though on any parts website nor my parts book the part numbers for those 4 L shaped brackets and their selftappers....do you know why they are not listed as seperate parts?

The brackets appear to be part of the bumper according to the parts manual.

My new bumper did not have them fitted so Maranello Parts are trying to resolve, will let you know if they come up with a PN

redwedge
25-11-2014, 10:23 PM
On my 355 (which previously underwent the TTT), the brackets are secured to the bumper with two screws each - they're not fibreglassed in. It's a 2.7 bumper without the cutout for the bulge on the exhaust silencer.

Terry, if Maranello have a part number for those screws, I would be interested to know it, as one of mine is missing. I had assumed that they were only available as part of the whole bumper, having looked at the diagrams online, and am surprised that they weren't included when you received the new part.

lotusk
25-11-2014, 10:40 PM
The brackets appear to be part of the bumper according to the parts manual.

My new bumper did not have them fitted so Maranello Parts are trying to resolve, will let you know if they come up with a PN

Strange
I'm finding that parts for my 355 are all over the place.
Screws and washers incorrect
Headlamp motors not fitting
Window angles incorrectly numbered and poorly painted

And your rear bumper has no diffuser supports.
What will you do?

lotusk
25-11-2014, 10:44 PM
On my 355 (which previously underwent the TTT), the brackets are secured to the bumper with two screws each - they're not fibreglassed in. It's a 2.7 bumper without the cutout for the bulge on the exhaust silencer.

Terry, if Maranello have a part number for those screws, I would be interested to know it, as one of mine is missing. I had assumed that they were only available as part of the whole bumper, having looked at the diagrams online, and am surprised that they weren't included when you received the new part.

Cut out for the bulge on the silencer...what's that all about?
Never heard of that.

I'm doubting that your bumper is a 2.7...or maybe a later 2.7 one
Or mine is a really early one.
My 355 was delivered August 1995.... Do you know yours?

redwedge
26-11-2014, 05:33 PM
Cut out for the bulge on the silencer...what's that all about?
The 5.2 backbox has a bulge on its bottom edge that protrudes through a shallow cutout at the base of the bumper. The 2.7 backbox has no such backbox bulge, therefore no cutout in the bumper.

I own Terry's old 355 (a 95 2.7 car) and a newer 355 (97, 5.2). I'm in the office, so no pics to hand, but you can just about see the difference between these if you look very closely at the lower edges:

5.2: http://www.prosport-ferrari.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/small_image/210x/91cd8a7d3207cbfe7ed737dd7dd362de/3/5/355_rear_bumper.jpg

2.7: http://www.exoticbodyparts.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/thumbnail/600x600/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_12__1.jpeg

Sorry for slightly hijacking your thread, Terry.

lotusk
26-11-2014, 07:50 PM
The 5.2 backbox has a bulge on its bottom edge that protrudes through a shallow cutout at the base of the bumper. The 2.7 backbox has no such backbox bulge, therefore no cutout in the bumper.

I own Terry's old 355 (a 95 2.7 car) and a newer 355 (97, 5.2). I'm in the office, so no pics to hand, but you can just about see the difference between these if you look very closely at the lower edges:

5.2: http://www.prosport-ferrari.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/small_image/210x/91cd8a7d3207cbfe7ed737dd7dd362de/3/5/355_rear_bumper.jpg

2.7: http://www.exoticbodyparts.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/thumbnail/600x600/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_12__1.jpeg

Sorry for slightly hijacking your thread, Terry.

Interesting
The 2.7 bumper does not look oem and is for the USA
But you own both 2.7 and 5.2 so you must know.

Tell us how the 2.7 runs with the gold connector kit fully fitted to her motronics system.
Is there any difference between her and the 5.2?

redwedge
26-11-2014, 10:11 PM
Despite my best intentions, I've done barely any miles in Terry's old car, it's just too nice and will probably be driven rarely until I either sell my 5.2 or turn it into a track car. I promised Terry that I would put some miles on it, but that was before I appreciated it in the metal - the photos on here don't do it justice.

Suffice to say, I really couldn't tell much difference between the 2.7 w/GCK and the 5.2 - they both idle smoothly, neither have ever thrown and CELs; if anything, the 2.7 is a *tiny* bit slower up the rev range, but I put that down to its stock exhaust, which I will swap out for my Capristo when I've got round to fitting a recently-purchased used Nouvalari exhaust onto the 5.2 car.

Let's start a new thread for further 2.7 vs 5.2 comparisons, I don't wish to get in the way of Terry's documentation of his repair work :)

lotusk
26-11-2014, 10:13 PM
Despite my best intentions, I've done barely any miles in Terry's old car, it's just too nice and will probably be driven rarely until I either sell my 5.2 or turn it into a track car. I promised Terry that I would put some miles on it, but that was before I appreciated it in the metal - the photos on here don't do it justice.

Suffice to say, I really couldn't tell much difference between the 2.7 w/GCK and the 5.2 - they both idle smoothly, neither have ever thrown and CELs; if anything, the 2.7 is a *tiny* bit slower up the rev range, but I put that down to its stock exhaust, which I will swap out for my Capristo when I've got round to fitting a recently-purchased used Nouvalari exhaust onto the 5.2 car.

Let's start a new thread for further 2.7 vs 5.2 comparisons, I don't wish to get in the way of Terry's documentation of his repair work :)


It's ok
Not much more info required
You are very lucky to have that 2.7
I am seriously envious

Terry
29-11-2014, 08:25 AM
Terry, if Maranello have a part number for those screws, I would be interested to know it, as one of mine is missing. I had assumed that they were only available as part of the whole bumper, having looked at the diagrams online, and am surprised that they weren't included when you received the new part.

Hi Steve, I hope all is well.

Maranello Parts have confirmed that they have the brackets for me now (no idea where they got them from but suspect they are from someones cupboard) and they do not have a part number. They should have been on the new bumper and are still looking into having some for stock in the new year.

The screws are just black philips head self tappers so nothing special there.

138745

Terry
29-11-2014, 08:35 AM
Most the car came apart fine but this was one stud that sheared off during removal.

138746

Drilled out what was left of the stud and found a flat head screw for the job

138747

A mix of 30 minute epoxy with micro fibres for strength and to improve the bonding

138748

Should last a while now

138749

Terry
29-11-2014, 08:52 AM
The door forward and aft trims have some surface corrosion to deal with under the edges of the trim rubbers.

What I had not noticed before is the inner side is painted matt black whilst the out is gloss

138750

138751

The wide inner rubber is retained with three push clips.

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138753

The corrosion area.

138754

Terry
29-11-2014, 09:00 AM
The rear door glass support also had the start of some corrosion.

138755

Again matt black on the inner surface

138756

There are two small screws securing the rubber trim just visible in the lower edge

138757

The edges of the seal are epoxied to help prevent the glass displacing the edges. Some epoxy had eased down the side of the rubber so a 6 inch steel rule helped to break the bond.

138758

Terry
29-11-2014, 09:18 AM
Four more pieces ready to take to RSB and powder coating

138759

lotusk
29-11-2014, 11:43 AM
Four more pieces ready to take to RSB and powder coating

138759


Are you going to prepare these pieces before powder coating or do they remove corrosion at RSB?

Terry
29-11-2014, 12:09 PM
Are you going to prepare these pieces before powder coating or do they remove corrosion at RSB?

It is only surface corrosion that has lifted the paint so when they blast to remove all the paint before a fresh coat of powder it will remove the corrosion.

lotusk
29-11-2014, 07:27 PM
It is only surface corrosion that has lifted the paint so when they blast to remove all the paint before a fresh coat of powder it will remove the corrosion.


Ok

Keen to see how they come out.

Powder coated gloss black i presume?

Terry
01-12-2014, 08:36 PM
Just another of those little jobs on the fog light fixings in the front bumper.

One of the attaching studs sheared off during removal.

138803

This time I drilled out what was left of the sheared stud with a 4mm drill and used a 5mm tap.

138804

Then cut down a 5mm bolt and applied Loctite 271 to secure the stud into the taped hole.

138806

138805

ronrob
01-12-2014, 10:21 PM
We're watching Terry. Another object lesson on repair technique, including a photo of the type of Loctite. You meant tapped hole, of course, but it's just to show that we are paying attention to the TTT!

Terry
01-12-2014, 10:35 PM
We're watching Terry. Another object lesson on repair technique, including a photo of the type of Loctite. You meant tapped hole, of course, but it's just to show that we are paying attention to the TTT!

You got me on that one Ron, yes tapped not taped. :)

I have tried hard to leave the interior leather alone other than cleaning as it is in reasonable condition. However it has been re coloured in the past and I just don't like that finish and it takes away the nice smell of leather. Today I gave in and called my contact to do some re-trimming for me so may end up with it all redone, I do prefer red stitching and I even have some thread from the last job.

We are going to review all the interior trim parts at the weekend and come up with a plan.

MalcH
02-12-2014, 02:05 PM
It must be a major advantage that you are welcome in the workshop there. Good news that the engine lid has come back into shape - major saving there. I have invented an acronym for the attention to detail which we know
to be Terry's hallmark. From now on, it's going to be referred to as the TTT or 3T - the Terry Total Treatment. None do it better. All cars will aspire to falling under the hands of Terry.
:laugh:

It looks to be coming along nicely. Hopefully see you near Christmas. PhilJay50 should be along too.

ronrob
02-12-2014, 08:32 PM
You got me on that one Ron, yes tapped not taped. :)

I have tried hard to leave the interior leather alone other than cleaning as it is in reasonable condition. However it has been re coloured in the past and I just don't like that finish and it takes away the nice smell of leather. Today I gave in and called my contact to do some re-trimming for me so may end up with it all redone, I do prefer red stitching and I even have some thread from the last job.

We are going to review all the interior trim parts at the weekend and come up with a plan.

And your plan will be to have it all redone Terry! You would not be happy otherwise. Red stitching included. Why fight it!

Terry
02-12-2014, 09:19 PM
:laugh:

Hopefully see you near Christmas. PhilJay50 should be along too.

Sounds good Malc. :thumbsup:


And your plan will be to have it all redone Terry! You would not be happy otherwise. Red stitching included. Why fight it!

I think you are right Ron.

Can anyone please post some pictures of their 355 interior with red stitching (not c/f sports seats)?

Terry
02-12-2014, 09:32 PM
Wanted to remove the cam belt covers to check the cam belt tensioner bearings so I could order new ones if required.

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Did not take long to decide that they need replacing. They do not look good and some play is evident even with the belts still installed. Order placed this evening for two new bearings from Hill Engineering.

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The other bearing did not look any better

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On the other hand, the bearing tensioners seem to be OK. They have a decent gap even though the engine has been standing for a while now. I will check them when the tension and belts are off.

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Removed the air conditioning compressor whilst I was in the there and gave the area a clean. Need to do the same on the other side with the alternator.

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Terry
05-12-2014, 08:02 PM
The car was temporarily moved into the oven to get some localised primer onto the new panels. A consistent colour will help with identifying any final adjustments and fettling. Only the top of the driverís door required treatment for corrosion together with a couple of odd spots on the front panels.

Next week the entire car will be rubbed down and prepared for a coat of primer towards the end of the week.

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Terry
07-12-2014, 08:36 PM
Collected some of the parts from RSB, I need to find some more storage space now. I find the worst parts of powder coating is removing the sticky silver masking tape residue.

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The water tank looked not quite right so I gave it a coat of satin black which softened the wrinkle and added a little shine. I need to do that again and then it will hopefully look better.

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Terry
07-12-2014, 08:43 PM
Re-assembling the air filter housings with new filters saved a little space and are now wrapped and stored away.

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Nosevi
07-12-2014, 08:45 PM
Unsurprisingly fantastic work, Terry :thumbsup:

markst
07-12-2014, 09:24 PM
very impressive :thumbsup::thumbsup:

lotusk
07-12-2014, 11:22 PM
All looks wonderful except the water tank...that looks well wrong.

Not sure if satin black will fix it.

Let's see....

Terry
08-12-2014, 06:46 PM
Unsurprisingly fantastic work, Terry :thumbsup:


very impressive :thumbsup::thumbsup:

Thanks Pete and Mark


All looks wonderful except the water tank...that looks well wrong.

Not sure if satin black will fix it.

Let's see....

Worth a try but if that fails it will be back to RSB.

Pangea
08-12-2014, 07:23 PM
All coming together now. Looking good.:thumbsup:

Terry
08-12-2014, 07:44 PM
All coming together now. Looking good.:thumbsup:

Thanks Nick, a little cleaner now to work with. :thumbsup:

Terry
08-12-2014, 07:48 PM
More priming, sanding then more priming, looking better with each coat and rub down.

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Terry
11-12-2014, 06:09 PM
And some more primer and rubbing down

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Joints on the new panels sealed.

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Terry
11-12-2014, 06:12 PM
In the paint booth with the final coat of primer.

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Terry
11-12-2014, 06:29 PM
Major part of the Rosso Corsa 300/12 applied. Needs to be flattened and inspected prior to polishing. Additional coat of lacquer applied for cutting back when I get the car home with 2000 paper and Menzerna polish but I will leave that until I get the car back together.

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Front lid, engine lid, front filler panel nearside wing and door to prepare and paint, before the application of matt black around the engine bay and rear panel etc.

Front lid left attached to the car to avoid damage, will be removed for painting.

All the loose parts to deal with next - bumpers, light pods, upper and lower inlet scoops and front lid air inlet.

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355OXO
11-12-2014, 07:12 PM
There's always something very nice about a newly painted car, then the hard work really begins putting it back together.

Merry Christmas. Enjoy your tinkering.

Regards

Simon

irarref
12-12-2014, 10:25 AM
Looking good!

So whats the plan wit this one Terry? Is it to be a full resto/show car or can I persuade you to come out for a spin when it's all done? :-)

Kyodo
12-12-2014, 11:01 AM
Great stuff Terry. I'm really looking forward to seeing it back together :) :thumbsup:

Terry
13-12-2014, 12:59 PM
There's always something very nice about a newly painted car, then the hard work really begins putting it back together.

Merry Christmas. Enjoy your tinkering.

Regards

Simon

Yes I want to get it back together and clear up all the bits and boxes around the garage and house.

Merry Christmas to you Simon.


Looking good!

So whats the plan wit this one Terry? Is it to be a full resto/show car or can I persuade you to come out for a spin when it's all done? :-)

Will have to see how it turns out but certainly yes for a spin when the sun shines.


Great stuff Terry. I'm really looking forward to seeing it back together :) :thumbsup:

Thanks Mark

geoffpfc
15-12-2014, 12:24 PM
Dear Terry
What a fascinating story, sadly I'm too far away, but a visit to see you and your project would make a great club night, can't wait for the next stage.
Very best wishes.

redwedge
15-12-2014, 12:42 PM
Will have to see how it turns out but certainly yes for a spin when the sun shines.

You'll have to let me know when you do this Terry, I'll bring your previous 355 along for the ride.

Terry
17-12-2014, 06:56 AM
Dear Terry
What a fascinating story, sadly I'm too far away, but a visit to see you and your project would make a great club night, can't wait for the next stage.
Very best wishes.

Thanks Geoff.


You'll have to let me know when you do this Terry, I'll bring your previous 355 along for the ride.

Thanks Steve, sounds like a great idea. :thumbsup:

Terry
17-12-2014, 09:40 PM
Door glass supports after powder coating, seals need refitting.

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lotusk
17-12-2014, 11:31 PM
Door glass supports after powder coating, seals need refitting.

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They matt black on the inside and gloss on exterior?

Terry
18-12-2014, 07:24 AM
They matt black on the inside and gloss on exterior?

Just the rear support. Gloss powder then a rattle can of matt black on the inner surface (not yet done in the picture).

lotusk
18-12-2014, 07:30 AM
Just the rear support. Gloss powder then a rattle can of matt black on the inner surface (not yet done in the picture).

Yup ...that's the way

Terry
18-12-2014, 07:34 AM
Cleaning all the excess sealant that attach the sills to the lower scoops was made easy with a flat glass scraper to remove the majority of the sealant:

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Followed by some sealant remover:

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I left the sealant remover 3 or 4 hours to work.

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Cleaned off and ready for the paint shop.

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Terry
18-12-2014, 09:26 PM
Lots of work flattening the lacquer and polishing.

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