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F430 New owner diary inc. maintenance & upgrades
- Thread starter MWStewart
- Start date
- Featured
Thanks. The mounting system of the exhaust isn't great either. Chassis is identical - it's just the bolt on parts that differ
I suspect the triple layer ceramic coating I have is more efficient than the factory approach. I'll gather some data eventually.
Thank you - didn't know that about PH either. I would love the Kline Ti system eventually; it seems like the perfect solution as I still want some noise supression for road trips.
I'm feeling quite imimpressed by main dealer service at the moment and have made the decision to cease the FFSH and use Shiltech instead.
Good choice
Thursday 11th September 2014
Rear Tie Rods
The Hill Engineering rear tie rod ends arrived. They are stainless steel ball joints encased within a billet aluminium end. The original Ferrari ends are plated ball joints in a forged alloy end. Ferrari fitted the arms in 2011 as a complete assembly and they hadn't used any anti-sieze compond which I always find vital when dealing with alloy threads. I had to cut off one of the original ends as it wouldn't budge even with heat applied. I've also bought new bolts to secure the end plates.
Assembly fitted.
I removed the A/C compressor to gain better access to the N/S exhaust nuts, and one of the three securing bolts sheared off in the block. Thank God it was the lower bolt (see arrow) which is easy to access otherwise it could have been a huge amount of work to rectify! It turns out that Ferrari use a grade 12.9 bolt for one of the three, with the others being 8.8! Combine that grade of bolt with an alloy thread in a hot engine block without any anti-sieze and you have a potential recipie for disaster. I decided to Helicoil the mount to make it better than original. I also replaced the bolts with new ones this time all in grade 12.9.
Manifolds fitted
Manifolds coated, and new studs from Ferrari. They are only 71p each so it makes sense to replace them. The nuts were from VW as it happenend; most manufacturers now use M8 exhaust studs with the smaller 12mm hex head.
It took me twenty minutes to fit the new manifolds which is in stark contrast to the four hours it took to remove the stock manifolds! The replacements fit well - a little tight around the studs compared to OEM, but that's no bad thing - so at this point they are looking to be a complete bargain. Let's see how they hold up to regular use.
Hill Engineering Foot Rest
I ordered this at the same time as the ball joints. The standard Ferrari foot rest is just a black rubber peice stuck onto an aluminium back plate. The Hill piece matches the rest of the pedals.
Standard rest:
Hill Engineering were brilliant to deal with and the service was great, and fast. The products are excellent quality so I certainly recommend them.
Friday 12th September 2014
I finished off the manifolds this evening and gave them a quick test: no leaks. I replaced all of the undertray and wheelarch fastenings with stainless versions - there are a lot of them.
There is a recess and nice pair of tan leather straps in the glove box to mount a Ferrari Maglite. My car was missing this so whether it is an optional extra or previous owners just keep them for a memento, I don't know, but they are probably the most expensive Maglite mini there is
I think it's a nice touch.
Rear Tie Rods
The Hill Engineering rear tie rod ends arrived. They are stainless steel ball joints encased within a billet aluminium end. The original Ferrari ends are plated ball joints in a forged alloy end. Ferrari fitted the arms in 2011 as a complete assembly and they hadn't used any anti-sieze compond which I always find vital when dealing with alloy threads. I had to cut off one of the original ends as it wouldn't budge even with heat applied. I've also bought new bolts to secure the end plates.
Assembly fitted.
I removed the A/C compressor to gain better access to the N/S exhaust nuts, and one of the three securing bolts sheared off in the block. Thank God it was the lower bolt (see arrow) which is easy to access otherwise it could have been a huge amount of work to rectify! It turns out that Ferrari use a grade 12.9 bolt for one of the three, with the others being 8.8! Combine that grade of bolt with an alloy thread in a hot engine block without any anti-sieze and you have a potential recipie for disaster. I decided to Helicoil the mount to make it better than original. I also replaced the bolts with new ones this time all in grade 12.9.
Manifolds fitted
Manifolds coated, and new studs from Ferrari. They are only 71p each so it makes sense to replace them. The nuts were from VW as it happenend; most manufacturers now use M8 exhaust studs with the smaller 12mm hex head.
It took me twenty minutes to fit the new manifolds which is in stark contrast to the four hours it took to remove the stock manifolds! The replacements fit well - a little tight around the studs compared to OEM, but that's no bad thing - so at this point they are looking to be a complete bargain. Let's see how they hold up to regular use.
Hill Engineering Foot Rest
I ordered this at the same time as the ball joints. The standard Ferrari foot rest is just a black rubber peice stuck onto an aluminium back plate. The Hill piece matches the rest of the pedals.
Standard rest:
Hill Engineering were brilliant to deal with and the service was great, and fast. The products are excellent quality so I certainly recommend them.
Friday 12th September 2014
I finished off the manifolds this evening and gave them a quick test: no leaks. I replaced all of the undertray and wheelarch fastenings with stainless versions - there are a lot of them.
There is a recess and nice pair of tan leather straps in the glove box to mount a Ferrari Maglite. My car was missing this so whether it is an optional extra or previous owners just keep them for a memento, I don't know, but they are probably the most expensive Maglite mini there is
I think it's a nice touch.
Phil Taylor
New member
Maglite
This was standard. A lot go missing for various reasons. Luckily mine was in place when I bought my 430.
This was standard. A lot go missing for various reasons. Luckily mine was in place when I bought my 430.
Modificato
Active member
mine too.
The factory covers seem to be the most pilfered item and re-sold on eBay.
When selling a car of this value why someone would hold onto £100-150 worth of cover and a Maglite is just comical to me but I guess dealerships also take their trophies.
The factory covers seem to be the most pilfered item and re-sold on eBay.
When selling a car of this value why someone would hold onto £100-150 worth of cover and a Maglite is just comical to me but I guess dealerships also take their trophies.
Modificato
Active member
Thanks. The mounting system of the exhaust isn't great either. Chassis is identical - it's just the bolt on parts that differ
I would love the Kline Ti system eventually; it seems like the perfect solution as I still want some noise supression for road trips.
I'm feeling quite imimpressed by main dealer service at the moment and have made the decision to cease the FFSH and use Shiltech instead.
Good choice
I hadn't seen the Kline system it looks nice but even though it describes a valve system the picture doesn't show it. Have you seen the Rowen / Tommy Kaira systemhttp://www.auto-style.jp/item_img/TMK91174330001.jpg
Thanks both - suspected that would be the case.
I hadn't seen that before; it looks impressive though I do prefer a more OEM style.
Thursday 18th September 2014
Some photos from today:
I've now covered approximately 600 miles since the manifolds went on and they are performing faultlessly. The sound on full chat is rawer than stock and quite simply incredible.
I'm still getting used to arriving back at the car to find people looking around it or taking photos, the biggest surprise so far finding a wedding party having their pictures taken. The attention thus far has all been genuine and quite pleasant, which is good as it's not something I really seek out, though I've been happy to oblige the photo taking.
Saturday 4th October 2014
Some routine and preventative maintenance this afternoon.
My car had the 'early type' wheel centres so I ordered a set of the 'new type', which are a darker yellow that is essentially Giallo Moderna, which is a better match for my rev counter and Ferrari bdages.
Fitted.
Whilst renewing the brake fluid I wanted to address another potential problem area which is the distribution block for the clutch slave cylinder. The OEM part can suffer hairline cracks which are usually caused by over tightening of the bleed union, but sometimes they can appear on their own. I had also read online that the OEM part was plastic.
To pre-empt any potential problems I bought a Hill Engineering uprated version, which is billet aluminium part, anodised black. Hill were great as usual and worked with me to pin down a postal service that ensured it was with me today - I onlt ordered yesterday, late morning. Thanks Diane!
With a duvet protecting the rear of the car, I leaned over and managed to replace the part from above with the engine bay lid open. It took around 25 minutes to do. The securing hex on the rearmost union was slightly rounded suggesting that the part may have been replaced before, so I may replace that line in due course.
Here's the original part: it's alloy, albeit of a lower grade than the Hill part, and it can be noted that for some reason the bleed union has been milled short which obviously will contribute to a weakness should the bleed nipple be over-tightened.
On to renewing the brake/clutch fluid. I use a pressure bleeder as it makes the operation so much simpler.
Calipers are fairly common-or-garden Brembo items with a bleed nipple for each side.
All done. The old fluid in the calipers was very clean so in fairness to Ferrari the fluid had been changed at some point, and it was just the clutch aspect which was overlooked.
Some photos from today:
I've now covered approximately 600 miles since the manifolds went on and they are performing faultlessly. The sound on full chat is rawer than stock and quite simply incredible.
I'm still getting used to arriving back at the car to find people looking around it or taking photos, the biggest surprise so far finding a wedding party having their pictures taken. The attention thus far has all been genuine and quite pleasant, which is good as it's not something I really seek out, though I've been happy to oblige the photo taking.
Saturday 4th October 2014
Some routine and preventative maintenance this afternoon.
My car had the 'early type' wheel centres so I ordered a set of the 'new type', which are a darker yellow that is essentially Giallo Moderna, which is a better match for my rev counter and Ferrari bdages.
Fitted.
Whilst renewing the brake fluid I wanted to address another potential problem area which is the distribution block for the clutch slave cylinder. The OEM part can suffer hairline cracks which are usually caused by over tightening of the bleed union, but sometimes they can appear on their own. I had also read online that the OEM part was plastic.
To pre-empt any potential problems I bought a Hill Engineering uprated version, which is billet aluminium part, anodised black. Hill were great as usual and worked with me to pin down a postal service that ensured it was with me today - I onlt ordered yesterday, late morning. Thanks Diane!
With a duvet protecting the rear of the car, I leaned over and managed to replace the part from above with the engine bay lid open. It took around 25 minutes to do. The securing hex on the rearmost union was slightly rounded suggesting that the part may have been replaced before, so I may replace that line in due course.
Here's the original part: it's alloy, albeit of a lower grade than the Hill part, and it can be noted that for some reason the bleed union has been milled short which obviously will contribute to a weakness should the bleed nipple be over-tightened.
On to renewing the brake/clutch fluid. I use a pressure bleeder as it makes the operation so much simpler.
Calipers are fairly common-or-garden Brembo items with a bleed nipple for each side.
All done. The old fluid in the calipers was very clean so in fairness to Ferrari the fluid had been changed at some point, and it was just the clutch aspect which was overlooked.
Sunday 26th October 2014
I've done some quick temperature tests in the engine bay following fitment of the aftermarket manifolds/headers, and despite them being coated, temps are in places 50 degrees higher than with the stock manifolds in place. It's not a huge issue, but I'm not happy with it so over winter I will remove the manifolds and send them to be triple coated. I will use http://www.camcoat.com/main/coatings2.html for the work; they offer a 'RaceSpec' version which is a triple exterior coat and single internal coat - which is tried and tested in Le Mans cars - but I'm cautious of introducing any possible failure modes within the exhaust primaries, which is of course the very reason for removing the stock manifolds in the first place, so in view of that I will stick to a triple exterior coat. This should bring bay temps lower than with the very well insulated stock manifolds in place.
I did mention in a previous post that I would at some point revisit the engine bay clutch line which was knurled at the clutch distribution block end, which is the likely result of a previous clutch block change. Whilst making the line I decided to address another potential problem area: the steel hardline on manual gearbox F430's takes a rather tortuous route which exposes it to the heat of the manifold primaries without the benefit of any heat insulation whatsoever. The orange lines in the following photo illustrate this:
In view of the above my replacement line will be of a different construction and take a different route. Thankfully the master cylinder to slave cylinder line that runs the length of the car is composed of multiple pieces, and the section I want to replace is joined at a very accessible location at the front of the engine:
The hose of choice is -4 Aeroquip PTFE inner/stainless braid covering. I'm using a Banjo fitting at the clutch block end to allow the hose to pass directly downwards from the block.
I have some 'extreme' hear barrier (bottom) that is a snug fit over the -4 hose, and for maximum protection some fire sleeve (top) on top.
Here's the OEM clutch line removed (top) and my replacement (bottom).
Replacement line in situ, showing the new route. Green arrows indicate hose connections and the smaller blue arrows indicate the stainless fixings I used to secure the new line to the gear change cables.
The clutch was bled through and test. Fluid of choice is Motul RBF600
Whilst working on the clutch hydraulic system I wanted to provide some protection for the distribution block. Regardless of what type of manifolds are fitted, the block is within 50mm of the neck of the stock catalytic converter, which obviously is not coated - none of the stock system is - and also falls outside the reach of the stock heat shield. I had noticed that the clutch block can be hot to the touch after a run, which obviously isn't ideal, so my plan was to create a heat shield in a similar vein to the stock part protecting the CV boots.
'Nimbus' was my material of choice, but rather than buy the branded product I located a heat shield on eBay from a mass produced car. It's the same stuff, but brand new only cost a small amount. The part I used was from a Citroen!
A few cardboard mock-ups later I had a pattern that would work. I also fabricated a bracket from 2mm aluminium that would mount to the clutch block and utilise its mounting bolt.
Close up of bracket and shield. The shield looks a little messy here because I designed it with overlapping sections that will be held together by the sheet metal screws used to affix the assembly. I also designed the shield so that overlap join sections face away from the heat source.
Bracket in situ. Clutch bleed block still easily accessible from above, below, and directly in front.
Shield in place. This photos show how it looks much neater once clamped down to the bracket.
Engine bay view. The photo shows how the shield follows the contours of the gearbox, and also just how close the clutch block is to the cat.
Sunday 2nd November 2014
Wing/fender shields courtesy of Denver308 on Ferrari life. These are a high quality replica of the OEM shields.
My temporary gel badges removed and replaced with the high quality versions.
Another cosmetic detail I really like was the Cavallino Rampante ("prancing horse") that comes fitted to the optional carbon fibre fuel flap.
I'm not really a fan of the contrast of CF in the middle of a panel hence I didn't want to fit the entire accessory flap, so I tracked down a genuine Ferrari prancing horse in the correct size which I will affix to the standard fuel flap.
This weekend also heralded the start of my F430's winter hibernation which brings with it a chance for me to spend time addressing a number of the more significant potential problem areas on the model. At this point in time the car is great, but it has just hit 30k miles and this was a factor in me taking the decision to spend time and money pre-empting any issues so that I can - hopefully - enjoy the car for the next few summer periods to come. My winter list in priority order is:
- Replace clutch with a new OEM version, and the release/throw out bearing & flange with Hill Engineering versions;
- Triple ceramic coating on manifolds/headers;
- Replace front track rod ends with Hill Engineering versions;
- Replace all ball joints and boots with Hill Engineering versions;
- Replace all arm bushes with Superformance versions;
- Replace anti-roll/sway bar bushes and links.
Given I've already addressed the manifolds I should end up in a good position. I will carry out all the work myself.
Clutch replacement
I will document my work in case it is of use.
My plan of attack is to leave the transmission within the engine bay and simply slide it back to provide access to the bell housing and flywheel. I will support the transmission with a hoist or a transmission jack/cradle. I am quite sure I can complete the job without removing the transmission support frame.
To start I removed, in order:
- Left and right rear side panels;
- Exhaust silencer - the studs snapped which was expected;
- Airbox;
- Catalytic converter heat shields; optional but provides more visibility of the transmission;
- Transmission mount heat shield.
This provides the following clearance - right side:
Left:
Overall view. I have placed some cloth underneath the header tank to protect it.
Rear diffuser removed.
Car jacked up and under tray removed. I have this off to a pretty fine art now: 15 minutes or less.
Gear change cable ball joints disconnected from mechanism, and cable bracket removed from the gearbox with cables attached. Three of 7mm nuts.
Driveshaft CVs unbolted. 13mm 12 point nuts.
This next job was the worst so far. The E-Diff solenoid and sensor multiplugs are covered in adhesive foil-backed fiberglass heat insulation. The insulation has to be carefully cut off as it can't be removed in one piece without risk to the fragile cables underneath, so as a result one needs to be careful of many fibreglass strands which are liberated once the foil backing is cut.
The car is a pleasure to work on. Some of the trim items are flimsy as I previously noted, but the mechanicals are well laid out and there are levels of space around the components that would be a pipe dream when working on a regular vehicle.
This is as far as I got this afternoon so another update will follow soon.
I've done some quick temperature tests in the engine bay following fitment of the aftermarket manifolds/headers, and despite them being coated, temps are in places 50 degrees higher than with the stock manifolds in place. It's not a huge issue, but I'm not happy with it so over winter I will remove the manifolds and send them to be triple coated. I will use http://www.camcoat.com/main/coatings2.html for the work; they offer a 'RaceSpec' version which is a triple exterior coat and single internal coat - which is tried and tested in Le Mans cars - but I'm cautious of introducing any possible failure modes within the exhaust primaries, which is of course the very reason for removing the stock manifolds in the first place, so in view of that I will stick to a triple exterior coat. This should bring bay temps lower than with the very well insulated stock manifolds in place.
I did mention in a previous post that I would at some point revisit the engine bay clutch line which was knurled at the clutch distribution block end, which is the likely result of a previous clutch block change. Whilst making the line I decided to address another potential problem area: the steel hardline on manual gearbox F430's takes a rather tortuous route which exposes it to the heat of the manifold primaries without the benefit of any heat insulation whatsoever. The orange lines in the following photo illustrate this:
In view of the above my replacement line will be of a different construction and take a different route. Thankfully the master cylinder to slave cylinder line that runs the length of the car is composed of multiple pieces, and the section I want to replace is joined at a very accessible location at the front of the engine:
The hose of choice is -4 Aeroquip PTFE inner/stainless braid covering. I'm using a Banjo fitting at the clutch block end to allow the hose to pass directly downwards from the block.
I have some 'extreme' hear barrier (bottom) that is a snug fit over the -4 hose, and for maximum protection some fire sleeve (top) on top.
Here's the OEM clutch line removed (top) and my replacement (bottom).
Replacement line in situ, showing the new route. Green arrows indicate hose connections and the smaller blue arrows indicate the stainless fixings I used to secure the new line to the gear change cables.
The clutch was bled through and test. Fluid of choice is Motul RBF600
Whilst working on the clutch hydraulic system I wanted to provide some protection for the distribution block. Regardless of what type of manifolds are fitted, the block is within 50mm of the neck of the stock catalytic converter, which obviously is not coated - none of the stock system is - and also falls outside the reach of the stock heat shield. I had noticed that the clutch block can be hot to the touch after a run, which obviously isn't ideal, so my plan was to create a heat shield in a similar vein to the stock part protecting the CV boots.
'Nimbus' was my material of choice, but rather than buy the branded product I located a heat shield on eBay from a mass produced car. It's the same stuff, but brand new only cost a small amount. The part I used was from a Citroen!
A few cardboard mock-ups later I had a pattern that would work. I also fabricated a bracket from 2mm aluminium that would mount to the clutch block and utilise its mounting bolt.
Close up of bracket and shield. The shield looks a little messy here because I designed it with overlapping sections that will be held together by the sheet metal screws used to affix the assembly. I also designed the shield so that overlap join sections face away from the heat source.
Bracket in situ. Clutch bleed block still easily accessible from above, below, and directly in front.
Shield in place. This photos show how it looks much neater once clamped down to the bracket.
Engine bay view. The photo shows how the shield follows the contours of the gearbox, and also just how close the clutch block is to the cat.
Sunday 2nd November 2014
Wing/fender shields courtesy of Denver308 on Ferrari life. These are a high quality replica of the OEM shields.
My temporary gel badges removed and replaced with the high quality versions.
Another cosmetic detail I really like was the Cavallino Rampante ("prancing horse") that comes fitted to the optional carbon fibre fuel flap.
I'm not really a fan of the contrast of CF in the middle of a panel hence I didn't want to fit the entire accessory flap, so I tracked down a genuine Ferrari prancing horse in the correct size which I will affix to the standard fuel flap.
This weekend also heralded the start of my F430's winter hibernation which brings with it a chance for me to spend time addressing a number of the more significant potential problem areas on the model. At this point in time the car is great, but it has just hit 30k miles and this was a factor in me taking the decision to spend time and money pre-empting any issues so that I can - hopefully - enjoy the car for the next few summer periods to come. My winter list in priority order is:
- Replace clutch with a new OEM version, and the release/throw out bearing & flange with Hill Engineering versions;
- Triple ceramic coating on manifolds/headers;
- Replace front track rod ends with Hill Engineering versions;
- Replace all ball joints and boots with Hill Engineering versions;
- Replace all arm bushes with Superformance versions;
- Replace anti-roll/sway bar bushes and links.
Given I've already addressed the manifolds I should end up in a good position. I will carry out all the work myself.
Clutch replacement
I will document my work in case it is of use.
My plan of attack is to leave the transmission within the engine bay and simply slide it back to provide access to the bell housing and flywheel. I will support the transmission with a hoist or a transmission jack/cradle. I am quite sure I can complete the job without removing the transmission support frame.
To start I removed, in order:
- Left and right rear side panels;
- Exhaust silencer - the studs snapped which was expected;
- Airbox;
- Catalytic converter heat shields; optional but provides more visibility of the transmission;
- Transmission mount heat shield.
This provides the following clearance - right side:
Left:
Overall view. I have placed some cloth underneath the header tank to protect it.
Rear diffuser removed.
Car jacked up and under tray removed. I have this off to a pretty fine art now: 15 minutes or less.
Gear change cable ball joints disconnected from mechanism, and cable bracket removed from the gearbox with cables attached. Three of 7mm nuts.
Driveshaft CVs unbolted. 13mm 12 point nuts.
This next job was the worst so far. The E-Diff solenoid and sensor multiplugs are covered in adhesive foil-backed fiberglass heat insulation. The insulation has to be carefully cut off as it can't be removed in one piece without risk to the fragile cables underneath, so as a result one needs to be careful of many fibreglass strands which are liberated once the foil backing is cut.
The car is a pleasure to work on. Some of the trim items are flimsy as I previously noted, but the mechanicals are well laid out and there are levels of space around the components that would be a pipe dream when working on a regular vehicle.
This is as far as I got this afternoon so another update will follow soon.
Phil Taylor
New member
Prancing Petrol Cap Horse
Can you tell me how you sourced this Prancing Petrol Cap Horse. What a great idea, looks fabulous.
Can you tell me how you sourced this Prancing Petrol Cap Horse. What a great idea, looks fabulous.
Thanks Geoff. I purchased a Citroen heatshield on eBay: a lot of manufacturers use Nimbus for their exhaust shields and I've found these the cheapest way to get the material.
Mark
Thanks Phil. Again that was from eBay. Eurospares amongst others sell the genuine item in various sizes. It can be harder to locate the version with attached stud, but you may well perfer to bond on rather than drill/bolt, which is what I did.
Mark
Modificato
Active member
Here is my latest mod: Scuderia engine Bay grills
I wanted to fit the carbon trim to the engine bay but my detailer showed me picture after picture of factory and aftermarket carbon with clear coated 'bloomed' after only a few thousand miles.
I wondered if Scuderia Grills - which allow for about 20% more surface area for hot air egress - would fit.
They do after a bit of 'shimming' with longer torx screws and some stainless washers.
Matt at 'Off Your Marks' who did the work says it takes a bit of experimentation so a blanket over the engine bay catches the ones you drop.
Since reading posts about what will probably be an inevitable header swap, (I have Mk2 Headers that are less than 1,000 miles old but on fitting the Capristo brackets we revealed YET another cracked exhaust bracket) I have become obsessed about engine bay heat management so am pursuing a challenge bumper and may fit a scuderia diffuser with its extra venting.
On the subject of dealer servicing imagine how my engine was going to fare after this handy work from Maranello Egham who changed the headers and left the air intake on the rightbank like this..
Lazy, crap workmanship, yes its hard to connect the airbox but that's why we pay you what we do for labour - you are supposed to be the best.
Luckily some boiling water was enough to reform the pipe but imagine the mysterious faults this would have thrown up and if left undetected long term issues..
Needless to say I will have my service history done by official dealers, e.g. oils, filters etc. but any advisory or remedial work will be done at independents who care and do better work.
Anyway hope you don't mind me piggy-backing your excellent thread
I wanted to fit the carbon trim to the engine bay but my detailer showed me picture after picture of factory and aftermarket carbon with clear coated 'bloomed' after only a few thousand miles.
I wondered if Scuderia Grills - which allow for about 20% more surface area for hot air egress - would fit.
They do after a bit of 'shimming' with longer torx screws and some stainless washers.
Matt at 'Off Your Marks' who did the work says it takes a bit of experimentation so a blanket over the engine bay catches the ones you drop.
Since reading posts about what will probably be an inevitable header swap, (I have Mk2 Headers that are less than 1,000 miles old but on fitting the Capristo brackets we revealed YET another cracked exhaust bracket) I have become obsessed about engine bay heat management so am pursuing a challenge bumper and may fit a scuderia diffuser with its extra venting.
On the subject of dealer servicing imagine how my engine was going to fare after this handy work from Maranello Egham who changed the headers and left the air intake on the rightbank like this..
Lazy, crap workmanship, yes its hard to connect the airbox but that's why we pay you what we do for labour - you are supposed to be the best.
Luckily some boiling water was enough to reform the pipe but imagine the mysterious faults this would have thrown up and if left undetected long term issues..
Needless to say I will have my service history done by official dealers, e.g. oils, filters etc. but any advisory or remedial work will be done at independents who care and do better work.
Anyway hope you don't mind me piggy-backing your excellent thread
Last edited:
That is slack service and is unfortunately not uncommon with the main dealers. I've taken the decision to cease with the FFSH and take the car to be serviced at Shiltech from now on.
No problem - post away.
Monday 22nd December 2014
I think I've tracked down some 16M wheels but the postage from USA isn't cheap. I have decided to add the skirts and front bumper too:
and the regular stripe:
I'll leave the back end standard as I actually think it looks better on the F430.
Monday 20th April
I found out that my car was within the VIN range for a recall on the clutch master cylinder. The inlet union on the original part can degrade over time and allow air into the system, so whilst I'm changing the clutch I may as well do this myself, rather than faff around having it taken to a main dealer for them to do.
Work has been taking up a lot of my time so I need to book some leave to get the car finished - I'm missing some decent driving weather!
Sunday 3rd May
Some more goodies:
16M stripe.
Hill Engineering upgraded front track rod ends - to match the rears I already fitted - and front skid plates.
The latest version of Scud Ing DRLs
Which do this:
I have next week off work to tinker with the cars and hope to get everything fitted. I miss driving the thing now - speaking of which we have a road trip planned for September. My girlfriend has been excitedly planning some of the finer details:
I've booked us onto the owners factory tour which should be interesting.
I think I've tracked down some 16M wheels but the postage from USA isn't cheap. I have decided to add the skirts and front bumper too:
and the regular stripe:
I'll leave the back end standard as I actually think it looks better on the F430.
Monday 20th April
I found out that my car was within the VIN range for a recall on the clutch master cylinder. The inlet union on the original part can degrade over time and allow air into the system, so whilst I'm changing the clutch I may as well do this myself, rather than faff around having it taken to a main dealer for them to do.
Work has been taking up a lot of my time so I need to book some leave to get the car finished - I'm missing some decent driving weather!
Sunday 3rd May
Some more goodies:
16M stripe.
Hill Engineering upgraded front track rod ends - to match the rears I already fitted - and front skid plates.
The latest version of Scud Ing DRLs
Which do this:
I have next week off work to tinker with the cars and hope to get everything fitted. I miss driving the thing now - speaking of which we have a road trip planned for September. My girlfriend has been excitedly planning some of the finer details:
I've booked us onto the owners factory tour which should be interesting.
Attachments
Yes, used, not new. ATD often have them.
Monday 18th May
Updated Clutch Master Cylinder 180841
Today I fitted the updated clutch master cylinder to address the issue with the old unit (175187) identified in recall R/2006/210 - https://www.theaa.com/allaboutcars/...430&modelName=F430&makeName=Ferrari&makeId=B2. Access is via the luggage compartment and through a waterproof membrane, which must be cut then sealed up once work is complete.
Replacement was straight forward, just a bit fiddly. I used new crush washers, clips, and hose.
Titainum Look Door Handles
I really like the titainium door handle official accessory: http://www.meridienmodena.co.uk/titanium-door-handle/ I have been contemplating these for a while, but at £500 I keep thinking the money is better spent elsewhere. Today I removed one of the handles to have a look how they are made and I was surprised to find they are actually cast alloy and not plastic like I was expecting. I decided I could do something with them! I used paint stripper to remove the factory paint and primer, leaving the cast finish:
Next I used different grades of went and dry paper to achieve the machined look of the accessory handles.
Finally I lacquered them. Here they are:
ILUAL43 Headlight LED DRL
I fitted the new version of ILUAL43 Headlight LED DRL from Scud Ing. Here's a standard sidelight for comparison:
And the ILUAL43. In person they are incredibly bright.
Fuel Flap Cavallino Rampante
Finally today I got around to modifying my fuel flap with the bolt on Cavallino Rampante I bought last year. I'm not a fan of exposed carbon on a Silverstone car but I really like the prancing horse on the accessory carbon flap, so modifying my standard flap seemed the ideal compromise.
I marked on the flap my preferred position then drilled a 3.5mm hole, and prepared it with etch primer, then a smear of grease over that once it had dried.
Flap back on the car complete with the Cavallino Rampante.
Updated Clutch Master Cylinder 180841
Today I fitted the updated clutch master cylinder to address the issue with the old unit (175187) identified in recall R/2006/210 - https://www.theaa.com/allaboutcars/...430&modelName=F430&makeName=Ferrari&makeId=B2. Access is via the luggage compartment and through a waterproof membrane, which must be cut then sealed up once work is complete.
Replacement was straight forward, just a bit fiddly. I used new crush washers, clips, and hose.
Titainum Look Door Handles
I really like the titainium door handle official accessory: http://www.meridienmodena.co.uk/titanium-door-handle/ I have been contemplating these for a while, but at £500 I keep thinking the money is better spent elsewhere. Today I removed one of the handles to have a look how they are made and I was surprised to find they are actually cast alloy and not plastic like I was expecting. I decided I could do something with them! I used paint stripper to remove the factory paint and primer, leaving the cast finish:
Next I used different grades of went and dry paper to achieve the machined look of the accessory handles.
Finally I lacquered them. Here they are:
ILUAL43 Headlight LED DRL
I fitted the new version of ILUAL43 Headlight LED DRL from Scud Ing. Here's a standard sidelight for comparison:
And the ILUAL43. In person they are incredibly bright.
Fuel Flap Cavallino Rampante
Finally today I got around to modifying my fuel flap with the bolt on Cavallino Rampante I bought last year. I'm not a fan of exposed carbon on a Silverstone car but I really like the prancing horse on the accessory carbon flap, so modifying my standard flap seemed the ideal compromise.
I marked on the flap my preferred position then drilled a 3.5mm hole, and prepared it with etch primer, then a smear of grease over that once it had dried.
Flap back on the car complete with the Cavallino Rampante.
Phil Taylor
New member
Prancing Horse
Hi Mark,
Thanks for coming back on this. That is exactly what I'll do and stick it on. If I don't like it after a while it's an easy fix to remove it. Not sure I could do what you have done to your door handles though. Brave, but I guess a fairly easy change back if you end up not liking it.
Love what you are doing by the way.
Hi Mark,
Thanks for coming back on this. That is exactly what I'll do and stick it on. If I don't like it after a while it's an easy fix to remove it. Not sure I could do what you have done to your door handles though. Brave, but I guess a fairly easy change back if you end up not liking it.
Love what you are doing by the way.