360 performance

Just as an after thought - any of you think it could be clutch going (manual)?

Guys - where is this mythical isolator switch I keep hearing about, I've had a good look under my bonnet can't see sight nor sound of it - anyone got any pics or a description of where I might find it ???

Open your front hood and look at the upper left hand side corner of the compartment and you will see the round black isolator knob...:thumbsup:

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Originally Posted by Juke 360

Hello all. My 360 seems to have lost a little power. Still goes great (don't get me wrong) but seems to have just lost a little power. Any ideas? Clutch? ECU? I had a few Sundays ago where I started it up and it had hardly any power - turned it off and re-started it fine. Not sure if it may be exhaust as there is a lot of white powder in the bay.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

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After picking up my car following an F1 pump replacement, my 360 felt really low on power. In fact, it felt like the clutch was slipping.

No error codes shown and clutch was confirmed not to be slipping.

Turns out it was the Air Sensors. On replacing both it felt like a new car!

170 quid ish plus VAT postage etc each direct from Bosch. Very easy to replace yourself - if you know someone else with a 360 you can temporarily swap them to see if it's the issue.

Best of luck!

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Originally Posted by Taaffy

Open your front hood and look at the upper left hand side corner of the compartment and you will see the round black isolator knob...:thumbsup:

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Thanks Chris I'll look tonight :thumbsup:

Thanks James. I will replace anyway. How do I go about fitting them?

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Originally Posted by Juke 360

Thanks James. I will replace anyway. How do I go about fitting them?

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I've got a pair of mint condition (spare) AFM's (air flow meters) since I upgraded to CS carbon airboxes I needed the CS afm's so I've still got a pair in perfect condition, I kept them as a backup just incase the CS ones went wrong - however I'm happy to sell them if you want them for a very good price pm me! :thumbsup:

As for fitting its just a couple of sockets, they just slide on in 5 minutes... very simple and obvious to replace. The most difficult part is understanding how the electrical connectors disconnect - hint; don't pulling too hard!

If the AFM's get covered in oil or dirt they won't read the correct amount of air and the car can either overfuel or underfuel (both not good). Should result in a OBD-II fault code though as they tend to read all over the show and the ecu's can usually detect this.

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Originally Posted by 360Jay

There is that :grin:

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:D

I would say it sounds like the Mass Airflow sensors (or AFMs) - used to get this problem with the Porsche, could take them out and clean with some electrical contact cleaner - but be gentle.

If you have access to a code reader connect to the car and read the maf signals.
Requested should be 106 and actual should be 110+ if they are less than 105 the mafs need replacing.

But remember, many maf issues are intermittent which is why these can be so hard to diagnose (and costly).
If your maf pulls 110 now it doesnt mean it will pull it 2 mile down the road.