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Thread: Ferrari 348 engine bay and rear end restoration.

  1. #121
    Pangea's Avatar
    Pangea is offline Only 37 known common faults - The Ferrari 355 Club Member
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    Now you can disconnect the anti roll bar each end. Just undo the nut and on the bar and maybe the nut on the lower
    arm ARB pivot bolt( on the right of the small washer) and pull the link off. Not related but you can see in this photo, I also clamped off the brake hose.
    I did this before removing the callipers so as not to have brake fluid running about while stripping out the hubs etc.
    When hose is free to dangle you can then let it drain into a container. One of my hated substances over the years. Im replacing the hoses.

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    You will need to disconnect the brakes pipe from the rubber hoses if you are removing the top arms as the rear bolt
    will be obstructed. I don't recommend bending it to that angle.

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    The access for the retaining bolts for the front lower arms is from under the car. Under the front compartment floor
    there are two large grommet which conceal the front nuts. The rear ones are not covered but a little tucked away. Ive placed a ratchet on one to indicate where. Not hard to find.

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    Removed lower arm with anti roll bar link and pivot. This pivot bolt was seized and I had to use heat to get it moving.
    Had to sacrifice a couple of decent link bushes though. Pay attention when you pull the arm out of the chassis as there are camber control shim stacks on both fixing studs. Again, don't mix them up or you will be lucky to be close to the
    original settings which I know were not far out on this car. They are different thicknesses. Just in case a jumbling up
    occurred for some reason and the fact I'm getting the shims re plated, I measured each shim stack with a digital
    verniers so at least I've got the total thickness of each end on each side. Write it all down.

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    Top ams are simple fixed position items with no adjustment. Just undo the two a side main chassis mounting bolts.
    Plus the brake pipes of course.

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  2. #122
    Pangea's Avatar
    Pangea is offline Only 37 known common faults - The Ferrari 355 Club Member
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    Most of the main suspension components removed from one side.

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    Roll bar chassis attachment points can be undone now. Best tool for this is a 13mm ratcheting spanner.
    Lever the clamps and bushes off. They can be tight. Remove clamp captive bolts from chassis. May break up like mine.
    I will deal with that later.

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    The roll bar will be free to move around now but you cannot take
    it out yet. Next you have to deal with the steering rack. Go inside the cabin and locate and undo the lower steering
    shaft bolt connected to the rack. Pull bolt fully out and disconnect shaft. Remove the rubber grommet.
    Job for a small man really. Outside the car remove N/S track rod end.

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    Next, locate the rack mounting bolts and remove. Behind the carpet in the rear wall of the boot space are two long
    rubber grommets. One each side. The bolts are behind these. 13mm. Note the air con pipe I'm holding out the way.

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    The steering rack will be moveable now. Thats all very well but the removal of the rack is almost impossible to
    describe in detail. I tried so many angles ,turns and twists until it came out and in the end I had someone help it
    along from the other side of the car. You have to juggle the roll bar and the air con pipe I indicated earlier too.
    Its one of those logical thinking jobs.You just have to get stuck in and work it out for yourself on the day. Not for the
    faint hearted or easily frustrated. I read some posts on the subject and they seemed very helpful but in reality there
    was a lot of swearing etc. I took it out of the drivers side. The main problem is the splined input shaft that goes to the column. You have to try and rotate the rack to clear the bulkhead hole but the mounting brackets of the rack foul up
    on the roll bar and pipework etc. Eventually you find an angle on it all. Cant say much more apart from don't force the issue. It would not work. Its a juggling act. All goes through that tunnel. Somehow.

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    The roll bar is another story. With the rack out of the way you can now remove it. But, it does not fit through the hole
    . No matter how I tried I could not get it through. I spoke to another member from here,Paul, who had done this job
    a few years ago and he told me it was tight enough to scratch his newly painted bar on the way back in so I guessed
    it would need some force. I found this position to be the best. With someone pulling the other end I used a heavy
    hide mallet and hit the vertical part of the bar which forced it through the gap. Its tight. Use some grease. Be careful
    with break pipes and wiring etc. Don't hit the threads.

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    Here they are.

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  3. #123
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    Here they are.

    Crikey...what a pain that sounds!

    Now you gotta put them back!

  4. #124
    Pangea's Avatar
    Pangea is offline Only 37 known common faults - The Ferrari 355 Club Member
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    Here are a few pics of typical bush problems I found. The first is of the lower shock absorber bushes. Although not
    that bad and have been passing MOTs there is still some deformation and separation going on so I will replace them.
    I have to take them out anyway as casings will be re plated so bushes need removing for that.

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    These are lower arm bushes. Again some deformation and wear plus the old favourite of bush cracking. Not easy to
    spot sometimes if in a hidden position. e.g. inside brackets. These are ready to be replaced for sure.

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  5. #125
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    Pangea is offline Only 37 known common faults - The Ferrari 355 Club Member
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    Here is what a bush should look like. Plus a top arm finished and ready to fit.

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  6. #126
    irarref's Avatar
    irarref is offline Nowhere to put the shopping -The Ferrari F40 Club Member
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    As my kids would say...I am wellJell! LOL Very nice

  7. #127
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    is the suspension arm just painted ? if so what with ?
    or some other treatment ?

    Wondering about getting mine done, if I need to replace the bushes - there is a little clank when I go over potholes, but not sure whether its front or rear yet.

    Any advice would be apprecaited.

  8. #128
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    Great thread Nick. Are you shot blasting the arms and powder coating? Or replacing?

    Just seen Davo response......looks like we are all assessing this job soon as bushes are starting to crack like yours.
    Last edited by Carlo348; 06-10-2014 at 07:10 PM.

  9. #129
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    just another thought - had you thought about Superflex polyurethane bushes ?

    Had them on my Alfa 164 back in the day, and seemed very good - not sure if you can get them for Ferraris ?

  10. #130
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    Pangea is offline Only 37 known common faults - The Ferrari 355 Club Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Davo456 View Post
    is the suspension arm just painted ? if so what with ?
    or some other treatment ?

    Wondering about getting mine done, if I need to replace the bushes - there is a little clank when I go over potholes, but not sure whether its front or rear yet.

    Any advice would be apprecaited.
    Clank could be anything. Hard to tell without hearing it. I would check the antiroll bar bushes and ball joints first if you think its suspension related..Good starting point. You need to identify the area the sound is coming from really.
    The arms are shot blasted and powder coated. Bush change recommend if you go this route. I think most powdercoaters would prefer this option as they always comment on how the bush may perish when baked.

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