Club Scuderia
This is a sample guest message. Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!
-
Please take a minute to read this thread about our recent server issues and forum platform Switch
once detailed , how to keep clean
- Thread starter birdseye
- Start date
geoffpfc
New member
IIRC Ferrari don't produce touch up, I got mine from Halfords :shocked: using their mixing system, there's a minimum quantity so I ended up with about 4 touch up bottles, seems to be quite a good match:thumbsup:
geoffpfc
New member
Gordon
Is this as good as the makers claim? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GoXe6fZbhzc can they get an accurate match for our Ferrari's?
Tbf my car is silver so probably easy to match, but I've had better results with it than I ever had with a normal touch-up stick. Not perfect, and no substitute for a respray etc but fine for stone chips
milkshaker0007
Active member
What I've done is go to my local car spares place, gave him the paint code and he ordered me a large spray can full, each time I need to touch up all I do (after a good shake) is spray a small quantity into an empty pot and use a cocktail stick to apply to stone chips.
Good tip if using a rattle can, after use turn up side down so doesn't block up next time you use it.
That can of Rosso cost me £8 and will last me a lifetime, any good car spares shop will know a paint supplier, as long as you have the paint code, sticker on car or ring dealer to obtain:thumbsup:
To keep a detail looking good the main thing you want to do is avoid swirls. The detailer will have spent hours removing the old ones!
The main reason paint looks dull is the tiny scratches in the clear which is caused by poor washing technique.
You can maintain the paint quite easily with a few tricks but you will need to buy a few items.
Firstly I would always wash the wheels first, spray on a good quality wheel cleaner which is in a very dilute solution, use various wheel brushes. (wheel cleaning is a thread all on its own). This avoids any contamination of brake dust. Use separate bucket, brushes and mitts that are only ever used for wheels.
You need to get 2 buckets for body work. 1 a normal bucket with hand warm water - nothing else. (if you are feeling flush also use a grit guard)
Bucket 2 should be a grit guard bucket - fill with Megs Gold Class solution of tepid warm water (50-100ml gold class vs full bucket)
The water temp helps maintain the existing wax and also helps keep the surface cool and increases evaporation time to prevent water marks if in hard water area. (although you should not be taking that long that it dries but can happen on hot days)
Next and optional is the snow foam. You can now get hand held pump up snow foam applicators (about 30 quid). Something like Dodo Juice Apple iFoam is good. Apply to dry car and allow so sit for 3-4 minutes. Rinse.
Now start the wash. You need a good quality microfiber wash mitt. Noodle is my preferred. Use straight movement, not circles. Start with the roof. Then the ABC pillar and glass. Next bonnet and boot. Then upper doors both sides. Lower doors both sides next and lastly side skirts and bumpers. Between each area take your mitt and rinse in the plain water. You may or may not see much grit coming off. Then dunk and agitate in the gold class bucket with the grit guard and wash the next panel. Repeat like this. If you start to see grit in the first bucket empty it out and fill again. At the end of the wash the bucket with the megs gold class should have little or no grit in the bottom. This is the stuff that wrecks your paint.
Now for the final trick. The after wash rinse. At this point most people get out the drying cloths but these can also cause swirls. The solution is to use a 0ppm water filter. They are not cheap (£70+ ish) but will allow you to wet dry. Flush out the hose then give it a final rinse.
Make sure you blow off any water before storage but the end result should be a clean car which will look very nice for a long time.
All you should need to do is clay and re-wax every 6 months and the actual paint finish should be maintained pretty much forever even on black cars. Also your next detail (probably in a couple of years) will be much quicker and will require much less clear taking off thus actually keeping your paint in better condition.
The main reason paint looks dull is the tiny scratches in the clear which is caused by poor washing technique.
You can maintain the paint quite easily with a few tricks but you will need to buy a few items.
Firstly I would always wash the wheels first, spray on a good quality wheel cleaner which is in a very dilute solution, use various wheel brushes. (wheel cleaning is a thread all on its own). This avoids any contamination of brake dust. Use separate bucket, brushes and mitts that are only ever used for wheels.
You need to get 2 buckets for body work. 1 a normal bucket with hand warm water - nothing else. (if you are feeling flush also use a grit guard)
Bucket 2 should be a grit guard bucket - fill with Megs Gold Class solution of tepid warm water (50-100ml gold class vs full bucket)
The water temp helps maintain the existing wax and also helps keep the surface cool and increases evaporation time to prevent water marks if in hard water area. (although you should not be taking that long that it dries but can happen on hot days)
Next and optional is the snow foam. You can now get hand held pump up snow foam applicators (about 30 quid). Something like Dodo Juice Apple iFoam is good. Apply to dry car and allow so sit for 3-4 minutes. Rinse.
Now start the wash. You need a good quality microfiber wash mitt. Noodle is my preferred. Use straight movement, not circles. Start with the roof. Then the ABC pillar and glass. Next bonnet and boot. Then upper doors both sides. Lower doors both sides next and lastly side skirts and bumpers. Between each area take your mitt and rinse in the plain water. You may or may not see much grit coming off. Then dunk and agitate in the gold class bucket with the grit guard and wash the next panel. Repeat like this. If you start to see grit in the first bucket empty it out and fill again. At the end of the wash the bucket with the megs gold class should have little or no grit in the bottom. This is the stuff that wrecks your paint.
Now for the final trick. The after wash rinse. At this point most people get out the drying cloths but these can also cause swirls. The solution is to use a 0ppm water filter. They are not cheap (£70+ ish) but will allow you to wet dry. Flush out the hose then give it a final rinse.
Make sure you blow off any water before storage but the end result should be a clean car which will look very nice for a long time.
All you should need to do is clay and re-wax every 6 months and the actual paint finish should be maintained pretty much forever even on black cars. Also your next detail (probably in a couple of years) will be much quicker and will require much less clear taking off thus actually keeping your paint in better condition.
MoreThanPolish
Active member
Just about sums it up in a straightforward way, though I'd beg to differ on a couple of points:
Meguiars Gold Class Shampoo is not pH neutral so will gradually wash away your wax coating. However, if you have a Ceramic coating, it will be fine. There are plenty of pH neutral shampoos about, some even add wax to lengthen your shine.
I prefer a sheepskin wash mitt as its softer and has a deeper pile than noodle mitts, which I find vary enormously in quality and hence suitability. Even the cheaper sheepskin mitts are even and fairly thick. Not a fan of the Meguiars one as its only sheep on one side, the other being a bug removal mesh, which is fine on glass, so is relatively poor value if you want lots of sheepyness.
I've used these for years: http://www.raceglaze.co.uk/car-care...r-accessories/race-glaze-signature-wash-mitt/
If you ask, you even have a red one...
Meguiars Gold Class Shampoo is not pH neutral so will gradually wash away your wax coating. However, if you have a Ceramic coating, it will be fine. There are plenty of pH neutral shampoos about, some even add wax to lengthen your shine.
I prefer a sheepskin wash mitt as its softer and has a deeper pile than noodle mitts, which I find vary enormously in quality and hence suitability. Even the cheaper sheepskin mitts are even and fairly thick. Not a fan of the Meguiars one as its only sheep on one side, the other being a bug removal mesh, which is fine on glass, so is relatively poor value if you want lots of sheepyness.
I've used these for years: http://www.raceglaze.co.uk/car-care...r-accessories/race-glaze-signature-wash-mitt/
If you ask, you even have a red one...
MoreThanPolish
Active member
Its true you can machine wash a noodle but I still prefer the real deal, and of course most folks will use their car washing kit on all their cars, so safer to use a sheepy mitt.
Problem with shampoo dilutions is people dont use a syringe/pipette to measure out the dilution, and most put too much in, so ph wont drop.
I recommend (and have used for 10 years) something like Race Glaze Aqua Bathe which is neutral at any strength
http://www.raceglaze.co.uk/car-care-exterior/wash/race-glaze-aqua-bathe-car-shampoo/
Problem with shampoo dilutions is people dont use a syringe/pipette to measure out the dilution, and most put too much in, so ph wont drop.
I recommend (and have used for 10 years) something like Race Glaze Aqua Bathe which is neutral at any strength
http://www.raceglaze.co.uk/car-care-exterior/wash/race-glaze-aqua-bathe-car-shampoo/