Mike01606
Active member
Thanks Mark,
After originally wanting a "Bounty" livery (White with blue decals), I'm really pleased with the "Mars Bar" livery.........
Thanks :thumbsup:
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RD250LC Project
- Thread starter Mike01606
- Start date
Thanks Mark,
After originally wanting a "Bounty" livery (White with blue decals), I'm really pleased with the "Mars Bar" livery.........
Thanks :thumbsup:
darft vader
New member
When I had a look last week. I'd spent about £750 to date. I haven't got a clue what the market value of one in this condition is but I think it will owe me more than it's worth in the end.
I was surprised at how much this one was :shocked: you could be quids in.:thumbsup:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-RD...k=3&rkt=6&sd=151254820597&rt=nc#ht_1317wt_986
I was surprised at how much this one was :shocked: you could be quids in.:thumbsup:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-RD...k=3&rkt=6&sd=151254820597&rt=nc#ht_1317wt_986
Mike01606
Active member
It's been for sale for quite a while....that to me says it's overpriced.
I'd say a really good 250 will fetch no more than £3500 ATM, with the 350's tracking ahead by about £1500.
Ongoing to the Stafford show next week so that should give me an idea if only for interest..
Mike01606
Active member
Not a lot of progress over the last couple of days as I'm waiting for a parts delivery to finish off the brakes and chassis.
When I painted the caliper I made a bit of a schoolboy error and painted one of the surfaces which should be left bare as it is where the caliper should slide across the bracket.
The extra thickness was also stopping it from sliding smoothly.
At least it would give me a chance to test the paint for hardness and adhesion.
I masked the surrounding surfaces so I didn't mark them.....
Ii was then a matter of taking it back to bare metal using wet and dry paper. I then put on a smear of copperslip and reassembled it.
The paint was very hard so I have no concerns over the durability of the finish. I'd say it was close to powder coat standard.
My 'retro' 1980's leathers came out of the loft and fitted like a glove. Result!
A good clean with Gliptone shampoo to remove the 20 year old baked on flies and good to go...
When I painted the caliper I made a bit of a schoolboy error and painted one of the surfaces which should be left bare as it is where the caliper should slide across the bracket.
The extra thickness was also stopping it from sliding smoothly.
At least it would give me a chance to test the paint for hardness and adhesion.
I masked the surrounding surfaces so I didn't mark them.....
Ii was then a matter of taking it back to bare metal using wet and dry paper. I then put on a smear of copperslip and reassembled it.
The paint was very hard so I have no concerns over the durability of the finish. I'd say it was close to powder coat standard.
My 'retro' 1980's leathers came out of the loft and fitted like a glove. Result!
A good clean with Gliptone shampoo to remove the 20 year old baked on flies and good to go...
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Mike01606
Active member
Thanks. It has a few marks, chip repairs and swirls but I really hope I can retain the original finish. Petrol in the tank will be the test.......
My final delivery of parts arrived in the week but I've been too busy with other things to finish off. I'm off to the classic bike show in Stafford today so weekend progress will be slow.
I've have done a bit of work here and there, prepping more parts for reassembly and I've spent quite a bit of time refitting the control cables ready for the motor. This can be really time consuming to get all of the cable runs seated properly. Firstly for safety, second for aesthetics......
Mike01606
Active member
I finished the front brake over the weekend but haven't filled with fluid yet. I will do that at the end.
The pistons I had were both pitted.
I bought a new piston and seals last week.
Both seal grooves wee cleaned out with a set of tooth picks and the new seals installed with some rubber grease.
Then the new piston was put in place
Finally back on the bike with new EBC pads (forgot to photo).
I reversed the brake line as the top fitting was or corroded, so it went the bottom where it showed.
Good news from Paul the top end is on its way home!
The pistons I had were both pitted.
I bought a new piston and seals last week.
Both seal grooves wee cleaned out with a set of tooth picks and the new seals installed with some rubber grease.
Then the new piston was put in place
Finally back on the bike with new EBC pads (forgot to photo).
I reversed the brake line as the top fitting was or corroded, so it went the bottom where it showed.
Good news from Paul the top end is on its way home!
Mike01606
Active member
Ok.....I've just been through my delivery like an excited child!
Paul (PaulV) has done a fantastic job of reconditioning the top end. Well worth getting done at this point rather than have to do it later.
In summary it was at the top or just outside the service limit so it has been rebored to 1st oversize (0.25mm) which has cleaned up the bores beautifully. I think you can go up 8 sizes to +2mm
Of course new pistons and little ends along with all gaskets were supplied and will be fitted on the build up.
Late last week we exchanged mails about the potential head 'leak'.
We were unsure if it was a dirt/water trap causing the corrosion or a coolant leak. We decided the head should to be skimmed......
Paul has also vapour blasted the head and barrels in preparation for paint.......
Before......
After.....
For now, I've just put a smear of 2 stroke in the bores and stored them. Hopefully I can paint them this weekend.
Again a big thank you to Paul and if you need any work doing on a bike engine I would highly recommend his company (PJME).
I'm now off to my mates who's sourced a better swing arm for me for 25 notes. The one on the bike is slightly pitted and has a couple of wear marks from the exhaust. Apparently this one is corrosion free and I'll store it for now and exchange it later in the story........
I'm now aiming/hoping to MOT late next week as I'm on off work. Plenty to do and it will be tight, as well as weather dependent for the painting
Paul (PaulV) has done a fantastic job of reconditioning the top end. Well worth getting done at this point rather than have to do it later.
In summary it was at the top or just outside the service limit so it has been rebored to 1st oversize (0.25mm) which has cleaned up the bores beautifully. I think you can go up 8 sizes to +2mm
Of course new pistons and little ends along with all gaskets were supplied and will be fitted on the build up.
Late last week we exchanged mails about the potential head 'leak'.
We were unsure if it was a dirt/water trap causing the corrosion or a coolant leak. We decided the head should to be skimmed......
Paul has also vapour blasted the head and barrels in preparation for paint.......
Before......
After.....
For now, I've just put a smear of 2 stroke in the bores and stored them. Hopefully I can paint them this weekend.
Again a big thank you to Paul and if you need any work doing on a bike engine I would highly recommend his company (PJME).
I'm now off to my mates who's sourced a better swing arm for me for 25 notes. The one on the bike is slightly pitted and has a couple of wear marks from the exhaust. Apparently this one is corrosion free and I'll store it for now and exchange it later in the story........
I'm now aiming/hoping to MOT late next week as I'm on off work. Plenty to do and it will be tight, as well as weather dependent for the painting
darft vader
New member
Looks like a nice job done by paul :thumbsup:so it could be the top end baking in the oven this sunday (if it fits) instead of your sunday roast.:wink3::grin:
Mike01606
Active member
Yes very happy on the first point and Sssshhhhhh (it will fit :thumbsup
on the second :wink3:
Mike01606
Active member
So today the sun shone so it was time to paint the top end.
I should have masked it in the week as it took two hours to mask off the non painted surfaces.
Five coats of PJ1 fast black satin engine paint later.
Once the paint was dry I removed the masking tape before the paint cured.
Then after a few hours into the oven.
It says on the tin bake at 250DGC for 30-60mins. I couldn't bring myself to go that high so I used 160 for about an hour.
The kitchen stinks and it is now all cooling down with the door open and the fan on.
I'm sat outside in the dog house!
I should have masked it in the week as it took two hours to mask off the non painted surfaces.
Five coats of PJ1 fast black satin engine paint later.
Once the paint was dry I removed the masking tape before the paint cured.
Then after a few hours into the oven.
It says on the tin bake at 250DGC for 30-60mins. I couldn't bring myself to go that high so I used 160 for about an hour.
The kitchen stinks and it is now all cooling down with the door open and the fan on.
I'm sat outside in the dog house!
Mike01606
Active member
I've not had time to update over the weekend but I've made some really good progress......
Yesterday I started to build the motor back up as the paint was fully cured.
The crankcases haven't been split this time. The bottom end appears to be in good condition and I believe the 15k miles on the odo is genuine.
I put some two stroke oil on the big ends then lubricated the new little end bearings.
The piston rings had been fitted to the pistons by Paul so I lubricated them with two stroke oil along with the barrels and gudgeon pins. I fitted the inner circlip then fitted each piston to the conrods and then the outer circlips. Using paper towel in the crankcase opening to stop anything dropping inside.
The pistons have locating pegs for the rings to prevent the rings rotating in the groove and the ends being caught in one of the ports. It is important that these are lined up before attempting to fit the piston into the barrel to prevent breaking the rings.
A new base gasket then the barrel was slid over each piston. I didn't use any sealant, grease or oil on the paper gaskets.
Both pistons and barrels fitted. All hopefully the correct way around!
Finally for the top end was fitting the head using the very expensive genuine head gasket.
The head bolt torque sequence is marked on the head and I torque each one up in about 5 increasing settings up to 17.4 ft/pounds.
I put the inlet reed valves in before the motor was installed. These are a non return valve to control the 2 stroke induction. I hadn't touched these at all other than a quick inspection.
The complete engine.......
Yesterday I started to build the motor back up as the paint was fully cured.
The crankcases haven't been split this time. The bottom end appears to be in good condition and I believe the 15k miles on the odo is genuine.
I put some two stroke oil on the big ends then lubricated the new little end bearings.
The piston rings had been fitted to the pistons by Paul so I lubricated them with two stroke oil along with the barrels and gudgeon pins. I fitted the inner circlip then fitted each piston to the conrods and then the outer circlips. Using paper towel in the crankcase opening to stop anything dropping inside.
The pistons have locating pegs for the rings to prevent the rings rotating in the groove and the ends being caught in one of the ports. It is important that these are lined up before attempting to fit the piston into the barrel to prevent breaking the rings.
A new base gasket then the barrel was slid over each piston. I didn't use any sealant, grease or oil on the paper gaskets.
Both pistons and barrels fitted. All hopefully the correct way around!
Finally for the top end was fitting the head using the very expensive genuine head gasket.
The head bolt torque sequence is marked on the head and I torque each one up in about 5 increasing settings up to 17.4 ft/pounds.
I put the inlet reed valves in before the motor was installed. These are a non return valve to control the 2 stroke induction. I hadn't touched these at all other than a quick inspection.
The complete engine.......
Attachments
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Mike01606
Active member
Next up....engine back in the frame. I used some cardboard to stop the frame being scratched as the frame was passed in and the engine mounts fitted.
It's a two person job and luckily my wife was speaking to me again.....
Bolts in place and then it was time to start connecting the control cables, fitting the carbs, electrics etc.
All done and didn't take that long.
I then fitted a new chain and test fitted one of the pipes. I'm in two minds as to whether to refinish the down pipes. One is perfect, the other has some surface pitting. I'll make a call on it later as I like to retain as much of the original finish as possible.
A close up of some of the detail. I am trying to source a set of Philips crankcase machine screws to get rid of the awful but fashionable at the time chromed Allen set. I think I've found what to do here.
It's a two person job and luckily my wife was speaking to me again.....
Bolts in place and then it was time to start connecting the control cables, fitting the carbs, electrics etc.
All done and didn't take that long.
I then fitted a new chain and test fitted one of the pipes. I'm in two minds as to whether to refinish the down pipes. One is perfect, the other has some surface pitting. I'll make a call on it later as I like to retain as much of the original finish as possible.
A close up of some of the detail. I am trying to source a set of Philips crankcase machine screws to get rid of the awful but fashionable at the time chromed Allen set. I think I've found what to do here.
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Mike01606
Active member
Thanks guys.......
Tonight was just an easy evening filling the engine oil (well gearbox), coolant, 2 stroke and brake fluid.
The gearbox spec is. 10w 30 which I cannot find anywhere even online.
I had 5l of 15w 40 so I filled it with that and I will drain down and refill with better quality oil after the MOT run.
This was another milestone....
All the electrics worked.fine apart from crossed rear indicators. Interestingly Yamaha use different connectors at each point so you cannot connect it up wrong. The indicators are the only single bullets.
I also checked and had a spark (although a weak one with an old plug) so so far so good
Final pics before the start up maybe tomorrow......
