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The crazy world of Ferrari spares pricing

Modificato

New member
458 engine rebuild - amazed to see this new crankshaft was actually close to what it should cost
1DAF5F9F-79C3-4773-AA16-B54F399D6D15.jpg
£1500
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Looks like a Chambon / Capricorn made item to me and surprised at the reasonable cost.
Needs two new rods also, new rod bolts throughout of course, bearings etc.
30B74A6D-FFDA-48EA-8988-CBBBB28BBFF6.jpg
A 430 motor with direct injection and some new elements in the cam timing area but otherwise largely the same...
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Moral of this story...?
Don’t be a dick and thrash your car from cold before it’s up to temp and also don’t leave it for six months without turning it over and then hammer it around...
 
Some clown on eBay wants more for a used set of 599 GTO wheels with 7 year old tyres on (junk) than a factory fresh set from eurospares

Where do they get the valuations from?
 
Some clown on eBay wants more for a used set of 599 GTO wheels with 7 year old tyres on (junk) than a factory fresh set from eurospares

Where do they get the valuations from?

I think they hope an idiot will come along and pay a stupid price for them. Sadly I think they’re often right.
 
I need a new fuseboard for my 550, which is unique to that model. Everywhere I've tried for the official part wants £1900 - and they are all suspiciously close in price.

For 25 year old tech, that's just a nonsense

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£1100 plus Vat for a 458 crank. According to Eurospares a 360 crank is £6086.38 plus VAT....Now that is an absolute bargain!
I was really surprised when I priced everything up a couple of years ago - it made my future engine project a relative bargain. It's also made me rest easy knowing that if anything goes catastrophically wrong with the engine, it's pretty cheap to sort.
 
Agree but puts lie to the line that “when you buy a Ferrari you pay for the engine, the rest is free”.

Engine parts are almost reasonable for the Maserati / Ferrari engined units
 
My 6k comment was tongue in cheek....a 360 rebuild based on that could be ruinous (for me anyway).

If a 458 crank is 1k I’d buy one now before they are 10k. It’ll probably do better than money in the bank.
 
My 6k comment was tongue in cheek....a 360 rebuild based on that could be ruinous (for me anyway).

If a 458 crank is 1k I’d buy one now before they are 10k. It’ll probably do better than money in the bank.
I was referring to the 430/458 prices for the F136. The 360 crank is definitely not cheap :thumbsdow
 
Ok here's an example and I guess a question. Possibility I may need an idle control valve, I've not yet looked into it but there's a possibility. But I have options!



Option A - The genuine Bosch part (I think), new, at £69.75 with free postage:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Idle-Control-Valve-air-supply-BOSCH-0-280-140-505-/142688846025


Option B - An aftermarket 'copy' with a guarantee (and I think made relatively locally), new, at £28.95 with free postage:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/2220179028...9046218&device=c&campaignid=1057748120&crdt=0


Option C - A Bosch part but taken out of an old Ferrari 348 (so clearly magical in some way), used and looks like it's as old as mine, priced at.............

..........£145.07 plus £14.54 postage, no guarantee I can see and if it doesn't work I need to pay to post it back:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/2824799411...9046218&device=c&campaignid=1029031424&crdt=0


So the question is, why do I need to pay either more than double for a second hand one with no guarantee from a Ferrari rather than buying the part new or more like 5 times as much for that second hand Ferrari one than for a new aftermarket one again with a guarantee. I'm sure there are good reasons for doing this but what are they?
 
Ok here's an example and I guess a question. Possibility I may need an idle control valve, I've not yet looked into it but there's a possibility. But I have options!



Option A - The genuine Bosch part (I think), new, at £69.75 with free postage:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Idle-Control-Valve-air-supply-BOSCH-0-280-140-505-/142688846025


Option B - An aftermarket 'copy' with a guarantee (and I think made relatively locally), new, at £28.95 with free postage:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/2220179028...9046218&device=c&campaignid=1057748120&crdt=0


Option C - A Bosch part but taken out of an old Ferrari 348 (so clearly magical in some way), used and looks like it's as old as mine, priced at.............

..........£145.07 plus £14.54 postage, no guarantee I can see and if it doesn't work I need to pay to post it back:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/2824799411...9046218&device=c&campaignid=1029031424&crdt=0


So the question is, why do I need to pay either more than double for a second hand one with no guarantee from a Ferrari rather than buying the part new or more like 5 times as much for that second hand Ferrari one than for a new aftermarket one again with a guarantee. I'm sure there are good reasons for doing this but what are they?

Pete, Option A for me!. I just had the FF serviced and it needed new wipers apparently - £148 :shocked:
 
Pete, Option A for me!. I just had the FF serviced and it needed new wipers apparently - £148 :shocked:

Yep, if it comes to it I was ering towards the genuine part but not having been originally delivered in a yellow box. Why you would pay double for a second hand one just because it was is beyond me. Sometimes the connections are different or something similar but I don’t think so in this case. It’s marked on ebay as being correct for a Mondial so can’t see Ferrari not using identical in the 348.
 
Ok here's an example and I guess a question. Possibility I may need an idle control valve, I've not yet looked into it but there's a possibility. But I have options!



Option A - The genuine Bosch part (I think), new, at £69.75 with free postage:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Idle-Control-Valve-air-supply-BOSCH-0-280-140-505-/142688846025


Option B - An aftermarket 'copy' with a guarantee (and I think made relatively locally), new, at £28.95 with free postage:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/2220179028...9046218&device=c&campaignid=1057748120&crdt=0


Option C - A Bosch part but taken out of an old Ferrari 348 (so clearly magical in some way), used and looks like it's as old as mine, priced at.............

..........£145.07 plus £14.54 postage, no guarantee I can see and if it doesn't work I need to pay to post it back:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/2824799411...9046218&device=c&campaignid=1029031424&crdt=0


So the question is, why do I need to pay either more than double for a second hand one with no guarantee from a Ferrari rather than buying the part new or more like 5 times as much for that second hand Ferrari one than for a new aftermarket one again with a guarantee. I'm sure there are good reasons for doing this but what are they?

I will say these idle control valves don't go wrong very often. Also there are two fitted to your car Pete.

Option A is the best but you will be lucky to find originals at that price again. Looks like he has sold out. Let me know if you do and I will have two.

Option B are most probably made in China. (so Ive heard). Would probably work ok though. Same part has a huge price variation dependant on seller.

Option C is for suckers. :thumbsdow
 
I will say these idle control valves don't go wrong very often. Also there are two fitted to your car Pete.

Option A is the best but you will be lucky to find originals at that price again. Looks like he has sold out. Let me know if you do and I will have two.

Option B are most probably made in China. (so Ive heard). Would probably work ok though. Same part has a huge price variation dependant on seller.

Option C is for suckers. :thumbsdow

Hadn’t noticed he’d sold out but of course Option D would be an actual Bosch one second hand off any car other than a Ferrari for a fraction of the £145 asked by that seller. If you look at a list of cars the part was used on it’s endless.

I dont think there’s anything broken either. Just cleaned the MAFs and contacts to MAFs, ICVs and throttle position sensors for good measure. ECU relearn and drive to come. I’m (foolishly) optimistic! :laugh:
 
Yes. Its a very common part used on many. Original Bosch won't be the cheapest on whatever though. As I said they don't go wrong that often. This dipping of RPM is/was quite common on many marques and quite often fixed by cleaning the throttle body and possibly adjusting mixture. On the 348 you need to monitor the vacuum in the both sides of the plenum with a manometer to adjust the idle. There is a set procedure in the WSM. Otherwise its guesswork.
 
Yes. Its a very common part used on many. Original Bosch won't be the cheapest on whatever though. As I said they don't go wrong that often. This dipping of RPM is/was quite common on many marques and quite often fixed by cleaning the throttle body and possibly adjusting mixture. On the 348 you need to monitor the vacuum in the both sides of the plenum with a manometer to adjust the idle. There is a set procedure in the WSM. Otherwise its guesswork.

My optimism was well placed, did what I said above and all sorted. Cheers mate :thumbsup:
 
My optimism was well placed, did what I said above and all sorted. Cheers mate :thumbsup:

Don’t forget unless you force a diagnostic cycle after an ECU reset it could be some 100 miles and a number of use cycles before it throws an error. The design life of most Bosch parts is 160,000km but that assumes
Virtually daily use. Lack of use seems to drive issues with modern components selected from volume manufacturers catalogues. I have the force diagnostic procedure for my 430 somewhere but not sure what it is for other tipo.
 
Don’t forget unless you force a diagnostic cycle after an ECU reset it could be some 100 miles and a number of use cycles before it throws an error. The design life of most Bosch parts is 160,000km but that assumes
Virtually daily use. Lack of use seems to drive issues with modern components selected from volume manufacturers catalogues. I have the force diagnostic procedure for my 430 somewhere but not sure what it is for other tipo.

I think it's fine, mod. I think it's more to do with the fact that, due to weather and issues the car was away for her engine out for 7 weeks and I think the engine was out of the car and so all those electrical connections were open for quite some time. I'm also not convinced a full ECU reset was done afterwards. Might have been but the car instantly ran better after I did it myself. I think one or other of those was the issue and very much doubt it's anything more sinister :thumbsup:
 
I think it's fine, mod. I think it's more to do with the fact that, due to weather and issues the car was away for her engine out for 7 weeks and I think the engine was out of the car and so all those electrical connections were open for quite some time. I'm also not convinced a full ECU reset was done afterwards. Might have been but the car instantly ran better after I did it myself. I think one or other of those was the issue and very much doubt it's anything more sinister :thumbsup:

Good - let’s hope it’s sorted
 
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